CarolinaTZ Posted August 1, 2011 Share Posted August 1, 2011 Very nice! Look forward to updates. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
texis30O Posted August 1, 2011 Author Share Posted August 1, 2011 I was just told that I should have my car back on Friday.... I will be leaving town to Dallas, and will not have time to pick it up before I leave out of town.... I wonder what my wife would say if I backed out of the trip to play with my car. Prob, not a good idea so I will have to wait 'till Mon. of next week to get the car.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CarolinaTZ Posted August 2, 2011 Share Posted August 2, 2011 I'll be glad to pick it up for you! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
texis30O Posted August 31, 2011 Author Share Posted August 31, 2011 I drove the car this afternoon.... still some idle adjustments that need to happen. I am going to change the throttle cable linkage to be smoother, I am trying to get 2 90deg bends out of it by using some hard brake line tubing. I have not purchased the methanol for the injection, so we will just use water for now. I believe that it will go on the dyno tomorrow or friday at the latest. I am bailing out of town to go to the beach for the weekend so I might not be able to pick it up before I go. 5lbs of boost comes on quick. No problem. I like the car, it seems to be predictable. I think the weld for the manifold did not hold up, it looks like I am seeing some evidence of exhaust gas creaping out the mounting flange, so I will have them hit it up again........ With all of this work done I am starting to think I should have just gone with all updated stuff and dumped the Turbo Tom kit. Who knows working these kinks out might change my mind. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
texis30O Posted September 9, 2011 Author Share Posted September 9, 2011 If it could go wrong it has...... Carb is still not 100%, fuel pump does on me yesterday I had to push the car back to the shop, the front cover was leaking oil, for some reason the water injection is not working even though the lines/ tank/ and valve are all clear. When I go over 5lbs of boost it detonates. It gets to 5lbs quick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
texis30O Posted September 10, 2011 Author Share Posted September 10, 2011 I have had to scour for fittings to adapt the fuel pump to the car. I have it ready to go in on Monday. I ended up buying a Holley blue, pump. Hopefully I will have the car home this coming week. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
texis30O Posted September 12, 2011 Author Share Posted September 12, 2011 I am now driving a unregistered, un-insured, un-inspected car on the road. It feels good. I still have to work out a few bugs, but for the most part it is ready to go. I will get some video of it up soon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rossman Posted September 12, 2011 Share Posted September 12, 2011 Awesome! Can't wait to see it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
texis30O Posted September 13, 2011 Author Share Posted September 13, 2011 If time permits I will be going by Power Fab this sat to let Jeremy look at the car. I need to get it tuned, but for now I will have to take it easy and put some miles on the motor. When I got it 5+ years ago it only had about 5000 miles on the motor after the build up for the turbo . That build took place back in 1978-79. I have replaced ALL the gaskets on the motor, new fuel pump, new regulator, various new fittings, various new braided lines, new brakes ( rotors, pads, and Master cylinder), new interior carpet, New sets, New tires,new spark plug wires, Pertronix pick up instead of dual points, New spark plugs, new battery, New seat belts.... the list goes on. At this point I hope that it is reliable. The carb has some adjustments that need to happen. I want to put it on adyno, but not until I get some things ironed out. I just hope that the "tuning" part of this car will not kill me. I still have to get it registered and insured. I don't have any tail lights right now and I don't know why...... just one more thing that I have to take care of SOON. I might change out the rear diff fluid this weekend. If I do that I will not be going to Power Fab. I have a dash cover, and a front airdam to install on the car. I still have plenty of things left to do......just minimal time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
texis30O Posted September 16, 2011 Author Share Posted September 16, 2011 happiness is sort lived.... I noticed a oil leak on the front of the motor so I brought it back to the guys working on the car. It seems to be leaking out of the oil pump. So I went and got a new gasket for the oil pump/front cover area. As well as a gasket for the oil pump that seems to be leaking oil. In the process of puting it back together a gear fell out that spins the dizzy, and oil pump, keeping both in time... so now they have to pull the dizzy, set it back at TDC and set the timing as well as the oil pump correctly.... never ending saga..... I have been able to confirm that I do have a R180. So a swap is in order, that along with a better tranny will be added to the laundry list.......I belive that it will be a matter of time before I trash the tranny and the rearend. If I can grenade a 92 Chevy Z-71 manual transmission 5 times in a matter of 2 years I think the Z's drivetrain doesn't have a chance with me...... My goal is to hav ethe car back today to bring it home and start cleaning, installing misc parts that I have in the garage. Once I get all of that stuff out of the way I will start figuring out weak links..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rossman Posted September 16, 2011 Share Posted September 16, 2011 Sux man...but on the bright side, it's not a difficult job. Do the following When you go to reinstall everything. 1) Get #1 @ TDC, 2) Install the pump/dizzy drive in the correct orientation 3) Clamp the drive in place from the dizzy side with a pair of vice grips 4) Re-install your oil pump (I like to use a thin coat of Hylomar on the gasket and flanges) 5) Remove the vice grips 6) Re-install dizzy 7) Have a beer cuz you are done! If you have to remove the oil pump again, remove the dizzy and clamp the drive in place first so you don't have to worry about it falling out. Cheers, Ross Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GT72Datsun Posted September 17, 2011 Share Posted September 17, 2011 Good to hear that you got it running. I have a couple of ideas on the pinging under low boost. First watch your timing, and confirm that is does not get too advanced. Especially since you will be reinstalling the distributor drive and putting a timing light on it anyway. You may need to compromise the off boost running by retarding the timing to the point it does not ping. Unless your MSD can retard the timing as boost builds. My Electromotive does 1 degree retard per pound of boost. That leaves me at around 15 degrees advance at 15 pounds of boost. If you have the same jets in the carb as the previous owner i would start with the timing retarded to the point where it just starts and do some pulls advancing the timing until you hear a knock. This is the same process i use on my high compression N/A motors when running pump 93. FYI compression vs. boost tables show that 5 psi is about equivalent to an increase of 2 in your compression ratio (i.e. if you are at 8:1 then you go to about 10:1 at 5 psi). Are you still running avgas? Second for the water injection. You can use an air compressor to pressurize the water tank and check the water flow at any boost pressure. To build the air supply to the water tank, which represents the boost made in your manifold: I have a 0-30 psi gauge on an adjustable regulator that plugs into my air compressor. The regulator output is plumbed with the same -6 an fitting as the top of my water tank. Before a track day or when i know i am going to run boost for a while i purge the system of air and check the open and close pressures. I pull the water injection port from under the carb and place it in a clear bottle. I then slowly increase the regulator output until a water drip occurs (for me this is about 7 psi). I then slowly increase the pressure until full flow occurs (for me this is 8 psi). Adjust the spring in the pressure valve until you get the opening pressures you want. You now just simulated the boost control of the water injection system and did not put your pistons or head gasket at risk. I usually repeat the pressure increases and decreases until i am comfortable with the repeatability. FYI, the pressure relief valve that was originally on my car was and aluminum on aluminum seat that did not repeat at all. It actually would leak water into the carb and then the block. I rebuilt the system after my oil looked like i blew a head gasket. After i realized the tank leaked all the water into the motor i spent some time sourcing parts. 4 years on the new relief valve and it still repeats. If you are interested, I can dig up the plumbing diagram and parts list i used. Good luck and keep with it and let me know if you have any questions or what to talk through anything. Hopefully you will have it all sorted by the time your the time your newest edition arrives. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
texis30O Posted September 17, 2011 Author Share Posted September 17, 2011 I am running pump 93 at this time. I really can not afford to put 110 in it. I have a good source of Methanol that I am using. I have switched the water to 50 water/50 methanol to help offset the octane difference, as well as help with performance. I am getting the methanol at $8 a gallon. I would like the diagram that you are using for your water injection so that I can compair it to what I have. I know my intake and exhaust are different than what you have, and what Tom ended up using. I my kit was from 78 so I think it was one of his firsts. He used a factory exhaust manifold, cut it , welded a flange on it for the turbo, plugged the lower end and adapted a wastegate attachment on it. I do have the big Holley on it and NOS. I will not hook up the NOS until I get all of the bugs worked out. I am just glad to have the piece of mind that all of the seals on the motor are new. I would like to switch over to the electromotive XDi2 system but as money permits I will make the change. I refuse to pay for anything with a CC dealing with this car. Great idea on the testing the water injection system, I will set the same thing up with my pancake compressor in when I get the car to the house. I did find a letter to the previous owner from Tom's girl referencing the spring. Luckily enough there was a small envelope attached to the letter with two springs in it. I also have the paperwork from the valve that they used in my binder. I started to go through all of the boxes that came with the car a few weeks back and put all of the literature together in one place. I also have all of the build notes from the motor, head, suspension, gauges. It was like opening a time capsule. I have the MSD literature, Stewart Warner gague literature.........I have recipts for the external oil cooler ( Mecca oil cooler) I was grinning ear to ear...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GT72Datsun Posted September 18, 2011 Share Posted September 18, 2011 Ok i have not put pictures/attachments up in a while but will try. I do not have the full diagram in electronic formation (i attached one i found in .pdf), but I will attempt to explain. Run your boost pressure to the top of the tank as it should be now. Out the bottom of the tank I ran a fuel line to a vw fuel filter (purolator p/n F21124). From the vw filter you run through some adapters (see mcmaster invoice for p/n's) and into a o-ring seated check valve (mcmaster carr p/n 48935K35). The outlet of the mcmaster check valve needs to have 1/4 pipe threads added and then you run a pipe to -4 AN fitting (note AN = 37 degree flare). From that fitting you run into the original turbotom's an check value that should have been modified by adding a jet. REMOVE THE GUTS of the TurboTom's check valve!! I have a short fuel line that puts the jet pointing right under the base of the carb. Tune it to the pressure you want with the air compressor adapter. I did it all out of the car, then reinstalled the tank and everything. About $50 worth of parts and it has surprise me in the reliability. I built 2 in august of 07 and I still have the original one in the car. I check it every time i change the oil and the only reason i have touched the check valve is to the lower the pressure the water comes on, from 8 to 7 psi, when Florida got 10% ethanol in 93 pump. I heard some pinging in 3rd gear 12 psi pulls and the 1 psi of water eliminated the pinging. Here is a photobucket album with pictures. And since we don't have inter-coolers anything help. You loose your vin number, but see the images of my cowl induction. Let me know if you plan to try it or if you have any questions. pictures Boost_vac diagram Rev 3.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
texis30O Posted September 19, 2011 Author Share Posted September 19, 2011 Priceless. I further went through the boxes that i have from the purchase of my car. I now have located the install instructions, water injection install instructions, as well as a few adindems he put out. It turns out that the p/o had his own shop and did install the turbo Tom kits, and cartech kits. I have a letter with drawings from corky bell on different intake manifolds. Really cool stuff. I need to get a web page up and put all of this stuff out there for others to see and potentially use. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
texis30O Posted September 27, 2011 Author Share Posted September 27, 2011 Well I am done.... she is coming home today. After the fiasco with teh dizzy, oil pump and the gear I am just happy I am driving her for now. I still have a freakin leak on the front cover somewhere. At this point I just want to get the car home. The timing is set at 16deg. I know that is conservative but I need to be sure that I drive this thing easy. I have put 50/50, methanol/water in the water injection tank to help out with using 93 pump gas. The P/O used 110, and well I can't afford that at this point. I am not sure if I am hearing just the noisy valvetrain or knock when I get up over 5lbs. So for now I am on easy street until I can get the car over to get tuned and checked out. I have a busy weekend with family, and next weekend I am in the Tough Mudder race so I will not have much time to devote to tracing down this leak...... I will go get some more gaskets though.... Hopefully some time in Nov I can get to a shop to see some numbers on a dyno.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
texis30O Posted September 27, 2011 Author Share Posted September 27, 2011 At home in the garage..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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