stony Posted November 6, 2001 Share Posted November 6, 2001 Ok searched around and couldnt find the info i needed so ill do a mass question. #1 what dia and wall thickness is legal for nhra roll cage. steel not chomoly #2 I have a connection at work that may be able to mandrel bend all the tubeing for the cage...dose anyone have or know where i can get the blueprints/measurements to make the main and roof hoops? ie lengths and bend radiuses? for a 74 1/2 260z #3 cant remember but will post when i do ;< stony Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikelly Posted November 6, 2001 Share Posted November 6, 2001 I can get you those measurements as I have mine set up (Mine is also a late 74), including pics, but you can see a lot of it at: http://photos.yahoo.com/dat74z Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stony Posted November 6, 2001 Author Share Posted November 6, 2001 sounds good... if its not a problem. what size tubing did you use and is it nhra legal? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stony Posted November 7, 2001 Author Share Posted November 7, 2001 basically all i need to start with is teh main hoop and the roof that goes from tht top of the main hoop and follows the top of the windshield and back to the main hoop thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikelly Posted November 7, 2001 Share Posted November 7, 2001 The main cage should all be the same size, which is minimum 1 5/8th inch diameter (Recommended is 1 3/4) with .120 wall thickness minimum. I'll get you the length for the overall tomorrow. Going to bed in a minute... Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stony Posted November 7, 2001 Author Share Posted November 7, 2001 what about the plates that you weld to the floor to mount the cage? what thickness? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stony Posted November 7, 2001 Author Share Posted November 7, 2001 ok well next question.... the metal supplier up here only sells pipe not tubing. pipe haveing a seam and tubing not haveing a seam. is there a big difference between pipe and tubing in strength and will it be legal? (pipe that is) i think ive seen a couple picks of cages in here that had seams Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim240z Posted November 7, 2001 Share Posted November 7, 2001 Stony, The plates I got with my S&W setup are 1/4 inch thick and 6"x6". You should be able to find seamless tubing fairly easily, I think it would be a better bet. Tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pparaska Posted November 7, 2001 Share Posted November 7, 2001 Two things, Tim, the 6x6 plates I got were more like 1/8", I think. And we went through the whole "seamless" versus not thing a while ago, if you search for it. I think the upshot was, seamless is better, but the S&W kit is NOT seamless. And I think it was determined that some racecar builders don't think it's a big issue either. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim240z Posted November 7, 2001 Share Posted November 7, 2001 Heck Pete, you're probably right...sorry for the misinformation....I think it's time to change to the metric system and join the modern world. They're 3mm thick. Tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stony Posted November 8, 2001 Author Share Posted November 8, 2001 should the main hoop be straight up and down or can it be leaned back a bit to follow the contour of the door opening. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brad-ManQ45 Posted November 8, 2001 Share Posted November 8, 2001 I believe NHRA REQUIRES tubing, not pipe. S&W specifically states tubing on their website. AutoPower makes some rollbars and cages (bolt-in) that ARE NOT leagal for NHRA (but ARE for SCCA). These are made of pipe. Even if they were welded in they wouldn't be legal for NHRA. If I am mistaken I hope to be corrected... Brad Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stony Posted November 9, 2001 Author Share Posted November 9, 2001 can anyone tell me if ihra and nhra rules governing rollcages are different or if im good in ihra im good in nhra? where can i get info on the requirements on building a cage. i would be really upset if i build this cage and i cant use it ;< looks like me being in alaska best bet is to just build one myself. ive heard all talking about even pre made cages still require alot of cutting and trimming to fit. i also think im just gonna go with the cv swap and live with the IRS. for now ;< the guys here in alaska arnt very strict they need as much business as possible ;> but well see. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikelly Posted November 9, 2001 Share Posted November 9, 2001 OK, also here is the other issue with black pipe...It isn't designed for this stuff.. You need STRUCTURAL tubing... S&W can deliver 8 ft. sections of it to your door cheap... Also check with Coleman Racing (Link is on my site, click at the bottom of this post on the link) and they probably sell a kit. I know Jegs has an NHRA Kit for the Zcar. It is cheap considering and I'd bet in the long run that you wished you just bought a kit pre-cut. It would save the hassle of tube bending and the like... Some guys have good success, and others don't. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimzdat Posted November 9, 2001 Share Posted November 9, 2001 OK, all this info so far is great, but in my roamings online at the various shops mentioned, I have yet to see a kit that will work for the 2+2 models--anyone seen such a beast, or should I just warm up the ol' welder and order a bunch of tubing? I have considered ordering the coupe kit, just so I can get the basic parts (downtubes by dash, might be able to use some of the other parts, who knows) Jim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikelly Posted November 10, 2001 Share Posted November 10, 2001 JIm, That is exactly what I would do... Buy a kit and extend the front to rear tubes... Replacing the "Halo" Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stony Posted November 12, 2001 Author Share Posted November 12, 2001 8 feet tubing cheap? how much do you need to make a main hoop Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikelly Posted November 12, 2001 Share Posted November 12, 2001 Stony, There in lays the problem...The main hoop will require atleast 12 ft. and UPS won't ship anything larger than 8ft. You may want to try and get it locally... Find a welding shop or machine shop. Or just order the Kit from S&W...FedEx shipped Chris Cloude's to him with no problems. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stony Posted November 12, 2001 Author Share Posted November 12, 2001 Ok maybe we are missing my problem.. i live in alaska and the only way to have any of these cages shipped is 2nd day air'< so a 150 dollar cage will cost 300+ to ship. im still looking for someone that will ship truck freight up here but cant find any;< what about the roofhoop? require about the same amount? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Modern Motorsports Ltd Posted November 12, 2001 Share Posted November 12, 2001 Stony, given your scenario I'd find a decent tubing source and make it yourself or have it done locally. Make up dummy pieces from copper pipe or cardboard and take radius/lengths from their. I've known guys to do it both ways and either works....construction sites/scrap yards might have copper pipe fairly cheap (just small stuff for dummy setup) The few street ones I've seen in person weren't 'tight' enough to the cars unibody for my liking. It's a lot stronger/stiffer when it's built tight to the pillars behind your seats and follows the roof line very closely with small tabs tieing it all in. 2 frames tied together is stronger than sum of their parts. Can't recall who it was that passed this on, but their main hoop was purposefully made 'too wide', then compressed with a turfer to get it inside the car, put in place and released and installed. With only that main hoop in and nothing else the car was briefly driven and stiffer just with the hoop. It's preferred not to fully weld the 'sole' plates so they can strain with your chassis and maintain their connection longer(ie. weld 3/4" and leave 1")....fully welded and that 'point' becomes so stiff it has v. little flex and is more likely to punch or pass on unwanted distortion elsewhere in the event of a smackup. good luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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