Guest frdfocussvt Posted January 18, 2007 Share Posted January 18, 2007 Wishfull thinking maybe, but never hurts to ask. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1jzmoe Posted May 13, 2007 Share Posted May 13, 2007 i am also looking to see if i can get some mounts made too,if you find someone that makes the mounts can you let me know please, im in tacoma wa. My friend and i will be putting a 7mgte in a 76 280z. You can e-mail me at 1jzmoe@gmail.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clifton Posted May 17, 2007 Share Posted May 17, 2007 Making motor mounts is pretty easy. The trans mount would be harder unless it was bolted to the trans tunnel. I welded mounts to mine, then bolted the mount. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete84 Posted May 17, 2007 Share Posted May 17, 2007 Did you run into any fitment issues? Steering rack? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clifton Posted May 17, 2007 Share Posted May 17, 2007 No, the shifter comes out too far forward though. You could go back another 1/2" but it still wouldn't be enough. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
materchan Posted May 17, 2007 Share Posted May 17, 2007 i actually had no problem with the shifter hole, i didnt have to cut it at all. this might also be because my z was originally an auto. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clifton Posted May 17, 2007 Share Posted May 17, 2007 i actually had no problem with the shifter hole, i didnt have to cut it at all. this might also be because my z was originally an auto. Are you running an a/c compressor? The back of my compressor is .700" from the Z motor mount. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
materchan Posted May 18, 2007 Share Posted May 18, 2007 no a/c for me. i am running engine mounts off of the accessory bolt holes in the block. i have about an inch between the valve covers and the firewall if that helps any. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clifton Posted May 18, 2007 Share Posted May 18, 2007 That's pretty good. I'm about 2 3/8" from the lower flange on the valve cover. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete84 Posted May 19, 2007 Share Posted May 19, 2007 no a/c for me. i am running engine mounts off of the accessory bolt holes in the block. i have about an inch between the valve covers and the firewall if that helps any. That's pretty good. I'm about 2 3/8" from the lower flange on the valve cover. I assume that you are both mounting on the stock S30 engine mount locations? Clifton, are you using the 7MGTE mount positions? And materchan, by "accessory bolt holes in the block" I take it that you mean the A/C, PS, alternator bracket mounts? Is the block strong enough there? Not familiar with the 7MGTE, but is there anything on the back side of them? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clifton Posted May 19, 2007 Share Posted May 19, 2007 Ya, I'm using the stock S30 engine mount on the cross memeber and rubber . I'm also using the accessory holes to mount to. Here's my driver side one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
majik16106 Posted May 23, 2007 Share Posted May 23, 2007 whoa... thats the first time ive seen your mounts.. you did the tranny the same way i did.. but the motor mounts.. you did COMPLETELY different. hahah.. guess it just goes to show how these hybrid cars can turn out.. same motors.. totally different ways to make it work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete84 Posted May 23, 2007 Share Posted May 23, 2007 http://www.toysport.com/webpages/Techinfo/Enginemod/7m_tech_notes.htm Found that page on the 7M engines, sounds like the heads are a bit finicky, getting warped fairly easily, and requiring some pretty serious prep work for metal head gaskets. What have your guys experiances been with the engine? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clifton Posted May 23, 2007 Share Posted May 23, 2007 Don't know were they came up with the head warping stuff. I haven't warped one and I have used MLS head gaskets on a factory finished block and heads without problems. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete84 Posted May 24, 2007 Share Posted May 24, 2007 Did you at least have the main crank bearings replaced? That and the blown head gasket seem to be the top failurs on the 7MGTE. Given CARB laws here in CA, a 7M would be legal in a 280ZX. Whole lot cheaper than a JZ as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clifton Posted May 24, 2007 Share Posted May 24, 2007 Did you at least have the main crank bearings replaced? That and the blown head gasket seem to be the top failurs on the 7MGTE. Given CARB laws here in CA, a 7M would be legal in a 280ZX. Whole lot cheaper than a JZ as well. It's the rod bearings that are a problem for some. The car I got my engine from had 185k on it. By the looks of it it was original. I rebuilt it probably around 195-200k are the bearings were'nt too bad. I have read of others rebuilding and shorthly after getting rod knock. I know the oil level in the pan is alot lower than it should be. I run an extra quart. It's still a mile from the crank but alot higher on the pick up which I think it the problem. Yes they are alot cheaper than 2jz's but won't make near he power. Having done one I can say, unless you can get a 7M with trans (parts car) REALLY cheap I wouldn't do it. There are better swaps that will make more power with the same mods.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hey_You Posted May 24, 2007 Share Posted May 24, 2007 The 1jz never came to the states did it? That would be my choice. 2jz is still pretty pricey. That's why I'm looking into the 7mgte. Parts EVERYWHERE, I can pick up a whole parts car with around 70k miles for only $1k, yup, definately in my ball park...although I'm putting a Pioneer AVIC-D3 in my A4, hmmm, there was my parts car, DOH! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1jzmoe Posted May 24, 2007 Share Posted May 24, 2007 you are right the 1jz never came to the us, the 1jz is more of a track/revvy motor and the 2j is more of the drag motor. They use the same block 1jz is a little bit shorter deck height, if you can put a 7m in your car, you can also put a 1jz and a 2jz just the wiring will be different, but the good news is that if you put a 2j wiring harness they will work with a 2j and a 1j and vice versa except that with the 1j you will have to wire in the resistor pack for the injectors, and like 1 or 2 other small things. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete84 Posted May 24, 2007 Share Posted May 24, 2007 Yes they are alot cheaper than 2jz's but won't make near he power. Having done one I can say, unless you can get a 7M with trans (parts car) REALLY cheap I wouldn't do it. There are better swaps that will make more power with the same mods.. So besides finding a quite cheap parts car, what swaps would you advise then? And oh yes, I need to be able to get decent highway mileage too I ask as the cost of swapping in a CARB legal motor is quite dependant on how cheap I might get the parts car. Or in the case of the Z31 the 87-89 Turbo's have the least to upgrade, vented rear brakes, 5 bolt hubs, tunable ECU, LSD, etc, but cost the most to buy outright. And 280ZX's are so much cheaper to buy than S30's, well I am looking for a smogable design. Tough saving when I'm so close but really don't want to settle for less than I actually want . . . grrr Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clifton Posted May 24, 2007 Share Posted May 24, 2007 So besides finding a quite cheap parts car, what swaps would you advise then?And oh yes, I need to be able to get decent highway mileage too I ask as the cost of swapping in a CARB legal motor is quite dependant on how cheap I might get the parts car. Or in the case of the Z31 the 87-89 Turbo's have the least to upgrade, vented rear brakes, 5 bolt hubs, tunable ECU, LSD, etc, but cost the most to buy outright. And 280ZX's are so much cheaper to buy than S30's, well I am looking for a smogable design. Tough saving when I'm so close but really don't want to settle for less than I actually want . . . grrr I'm not one for going smaller. Discplacemnt = torque, so I wouldn't consider a 1jz when 2jz are just a little more. You aren't on boost all the time. Actually 2jz's really aren't that much considering how much more power they can make over a 7M or even an RB26. If you are looking for mileage and power I don't think you can beat an LS1 with a T56. Even n/a it would be fast with just bolt ons. C5's get in the 30's on the highway too. Don't know if the JZ Getrag 6 speeds are double over drives but they are pricey. If you went 2J you could do an R154 to save money but they aren't as strong. If you want to stay import, vh45, vk45,vk56,vq35,1uz, 3uz, All would need to be turboed for me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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