heavy85 Posted January 27, 2007 Share Posted January 27, 2007 I'm trying to figure out the best way to plumb the former heater hoses on my LS1 since I dont have a heater. I've read lots of debate on the L6 on looping the line vs blocking it and I looped mine without cooling problems. So does anyone have a water system schematic and / or practical experience on how to deal with the heater ports with the LS1 when you don't run a heater? Thanks Cameron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark Posted January 27, 2007 Share Posted January 27, 2007 With the stoco water pump you can just loop the heater line or plug the outlet and inlet. I've got an electric water pump on mine and just never took the plugs off the pump. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LS1 Z Posted January 27, 2007 Share Posted January 27, 2007 I would say you can just block them off. Reason being, My Z has the stock heater set up, with the heater control valve. With the heater off (control valve shut) Would be the same as blocking the 2 ports on the LS1. I've never had any cooling issues. JOEY Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
that240guy Posted January 29, 2007 Share Posted January 29, 2007 You can block the passage off on the LS1. It won't hurt anything. THe racing pumps for the LS1 do not even have the heater passages. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bartman Posted January 29, 2007 Share Posted January 29, 2007 Based on my practical experience with plugs, don't use the rubber cap's you can get from places like Pep Boys (I think the brand name I used was "Help"). They don't last very long before they crack and leak. I had them on my LT1 to block my heater outlets before I installed a Vintage Air system (with heater), and one busted at a car show spraying anti-freeze everywhere. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heavy85 Posted January 30, 2007 Author Share Posted January 30, 2007 OK so blocking off it is but how? I too have had bad luck with rubber caps at least 'vacuum' type caps as they get brittle in a matter of months. The LS1 has a 3/4" and 5/8" (I think) hose connection to deal with so I'm struggling to figure out without using rubber caps how to cleanly seal them up. Thanks Cameron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bucket240z Posted January 30, 2009 Share Posted January 30, 2009 Sorry for the thread revival but I am in the same boat with my swap right now. What did you guys do to take care of this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EvilC Posted January 30, 2009 Share Posted January 30, 2009 Sorry for the thread revival but I am in the same boat with my swap right now. What did you guys do to take care of this? I just looped my two ends from the block together and have not had any colling problems. That includes track days and a drive down to Daytona! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bucket240z Posted January 30, 2009 Share Posted January 30, 2009 What kind of hose did you use? All the ones i've tried kink really bad. Do you have any pictures? Thanks I just looped my two ends from the block together and have not had any colling problems. That includes track days and a drive down to Daytona! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blown77Z Posted January 30, 2009 Share Posted January 30, 2009 Just get some heater hose.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EvilC Posted January 30, 2009 Share Posted January 30, 2009 What kind of hose did you use? All the ones i've tried kink really bad. Do you have any pictures?Thanks I went to the local parts store and found a u shaped heater hoses with the correct sizes at the end. I will try and get a pic. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators BRAAP Posted January 31, 2009 Administrators Share Posted January 31, 2009 Haven't "studied" the LSx cooling system enough, yet, to know if plugging or just looping would be detrimental or allow the cooling system to function as intended, though on the surface it would seem as that plugging the heater ports may be more detrimental than good, due how it was designed. Below is the only diagram I have regarding the LSx cooling system flow. "If" plugging those lines doesn't pose any issue, then one easy way to would be to use the "U" shaped hose and place a plug in that hose. A cleaner approach, remove the pressed in hose fittings that exit the side of the pump, tap those ports for pipe plugs and screw in the plugs. This approach is reversible if later it is deemed that it has to be looped so not as to pose any flow or thermostat function issues. Hope that helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heavy85 Posted February 3, 2009 Author Share Posted February 3, 2009 ...but if you dont turn the heater on then isn't it just like blocking the ports? I asked in another recent thread if looping vs blocking affected cooling system performance but nobody knows. I currently have mine looped and was wondering if I could get better cooling blocked. From the diagram you lose flow through the block and radiator so I think you could get better cooling system performance blocked. I have an adapter fitting (1/2 to 5/8 I think since the ports are different sizes) in the loop line and was thinking about welding it shut. More I think about it the more I think that would be a good idea to get the best cooling. Cameron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EvilC Posted February 3, 2009 Share Posted February 3, 2009 Cameron, what temp are you trying to get your LS motor to run at? I am having a hard time understanding what you are really looking to do and gain? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heavy85 Posted February 3, 2009 Author Share Posted February 3, 2009 Cameron, what temp are you trying to get your LS motor to run at? I am having a hard time understanding what you are really looking to do and gain? I'm trying to make sure I dont overheat during extended track sessions so want to maximize my cooling system performance. Pretty simple concept there. I dont know my temp as I have only run with the stock gauge that has a scale of TEMP. I just installed an Autometer so we'll see where I am really running. All I know it that it normally runs at the beginning of the M. As I make consecutive runs the gauge creeps up and up. I've never run more than an autox (6 runs in a day max) or HSAX where there are only three laps at a time on the track. Throughout the day it gets hotter and hotter until it gets to the upper P at the end of a run. At that pace over a 20 minute session I afraid it'll get hot. Cameron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rags Posted February 3, 2009 Share Posted February 3, 2009 To really give an answer as to which way is better you have to know how the heat temp is controlled in the GM car the came from. If the water flow is controlled then blocking would be the better choice. If flow is not controlled and the temperature is controlled by duct work of some kind then looping would be your better choice. I figure if the flow is blocked to control temperature, then by blocking the heater lines will not effect the cooling system's ability to remove heat as the system would be designed to work at peak efficiency when the heater control valve was closed. When it's hot outside and the heat isn't being used. Obviously I'm assuming the GM engineers took this into consideration when designing the cooling system. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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