zilvia_gt Posted February 6, 2007 Share Posted February 6, 2007 I know I will get :fmad:flamed:flamedevi, but did a search and couldn't find much usuable info. I'm just wondering if the price on this clip is reasonable(a good deal) or not. I ran across a deal on a complete r33 rb26dett front clip for $3800 with included vlsd with axles, driveshaft, 5 lug conversion, and guage cluster. The motor has 40-45K on it and has been leaked down tested at 165 across. Clip is complete with uncut harness, ecu, mafs(x2), intercooler and pipings also. Any thought are greatly appreciated. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Booztd 3 Posted February 6, 2007 Share Posted February 6, 2007 Sounds like a pretty good deal to me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alexideways Posted February 6, 2007 Share Posted February 6, 2007 Sounds to go to be true... to me at least. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stony Posted February 6, 2007 Share Posted February 6, 2007 Is it in the states? if you can afford to go to where the motor is and look at it I would. that is usually the price for a motor alone. 165 across the board????? I may be wrong but that Seems a little low....that would be the first time i have seen one like that. there is usually some differences in the cylinders also. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vashonz Posted February 6, 2007 Share Posted February 6, 2007 I was quoted $4500 for an R33 with RWD transmission and the right (rear sump) oil pan. $3800 sounds like a good deal to me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alexideways Posted February 6, 2007 Share Posted February 6, 2007 Yeah but, like I said, it sounds like TOO MUCH of a good deal to ME. $3800 for... ...complete r33 rb26dett front clip ... included vlsd with axles, driveshaft, 5 lug conversion, guage cluster...Clip is complete with uncut harness, ecu, mafs(x2), intercooler and pipings also. Come on!!! The motor has 40-45K on it and has been leaked down tested at 165 across. Sounds like the guy tested with dry cylinders, the engine sat for a few months in the humid confines of it's container on a ship, this can cause the rings to stick and the engine needs to turn a few times (even on the starter) before it'll grind this little layer and oil flows back in the engine and give the real results. At least, this has been the case a few times for me in the past. So, like it's been said above, if you can go see the engine and have the guy spin the engine for a few minutes (few seconds at a time) and check compression again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RB26powered74zcar Posted February 6, 2007 Share Posted February 6, 2007 If you want to give out a hint from who gave you this quote, we'd prolly be able to tell you if it BS or not. Most of the honest reputable sellers are a known few..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vashonz Posted February 6, 2007 Share Posted February 6, 2007 I got my quote from Doug at http://www.fairladymotors.com or http://www.upgarageusa.com I was over there the other day and they were starting up each clip and getting a video of it starting/running/reving/making boost. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zilvia_gt Posted February 6, 2007 Author Share Posted February 6, 2007 Yes, the clip is in the states. It's about a two hour drive, but I can go and see the clip. Is there a way for me to start or at least crank the clip so that I can get a compression reading? I have a compression guage, the type where you screw it into the spark plug. I was thinking of dropping a bit or oil down the spark plug acces into the cylinder and then cranking it with a battery. Of course I'm sure there isn't a key so any ideas here? I don't want to bad-mouth anyone, so all I will say is the clip is from an importer in the northern half of California. The compression was done using a "leak-down" test. I'm not sure what that is, but I'm assuming you pump air into the cylinder(s) and test for leaks, so yes, alexidways, I think the compression was done with dry cylinders. What is the compression suppose to be anyways. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Booztd 3 Posted February 6, 2007 Share Posted February 6, 2007 You dont need a key, all you need is a starter and a battery. Ground the battery to the engine and give the starter and signal wire the juice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dtsnlvrs Posted February 7, 2007 Share Posted February 7, 2007 I got my quote from Doug at http://www.fairladymotors.com or http://www.upgarageusa.com I was over there the other day and they were starting up each clip and getting a video of it starting/running/reving/making boost. I used to do some work on the side for Doug back in the 90's when I was stationed up there. He is a very knowlegable and reputable guy. Tell him Russell, his Army buddy, said Hi. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doug71zt Posted February 8, 2007 Share Posted February 8, 2007 A true leak-down test gives you a leakage percentage as you are measuring the difference between a reference air pressure and the air pressure in the cylinder being tested. It will not give you 165 or anything like that. A good engine that is in service can give you anywhere between 92-98%. Under 80% I would look for another engine, but it is hard to do an accurate leakdown when the engine is cold and hasn't been run it a long while. If you are serious enough to want to get the engine, buck up for some gaskets and pull the pan off to check if there is any metal in it and check a rod bearing while you are in there. I don't know if the importers are OK with doing this, but I wouldn't buy an engine that I couldn't hear running any other way. I don't think that the main problem with the RB series is low compression readings, usually it has bottom end distress. Cheers Doug Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vashonz Posted February 8, 2007 Share Posted February 8, 2007 If it is a clip you should be able to start the engine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alexideways Posted February 8, 2007 Share Posted February 8, 2007 ...buck up for some gaskets and pull the pan off to check if there is any metal in it and check a rod bearing while you are in there...I don't know if the importers are OK with doing this... I don't think that importers really like you to open motors, as most of them void the warranty if anything is opened. To see if there's shavings in the oil without removing the pan, a good trick is to cut the oil filter in half on it's lenght and inspect the filter material inside. If you have alluminum flakes, something is wrong in the head. If you have copper or something that looks close to it, a bearing is probably crying for mercy. Etc... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrFancypants Posted February 8, 2007 Share Posted February 8, 2007 It's also a wise idea to change out the rod bearings before installing a JDM motor in your car. Those motors are frequently run on extended oil change intervals and have a tendency of spinning bearings. It's a lot easier to change the bearings when the motor is out of the car. Cheap insurance. - Greg - Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alexideways Posted February 9, 2007 Share Posted February 9, 2007 Voice of wisdome??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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