Preparing for my turbo build, input is appreciated - parts list inside

[ktm]

I am swapping in an 1983 turbo motor into my 1972 240z. Following is the parts list I have developed for both a "stock" build and a "high hp" build. I believe I have captured most costs. Most of the prices are from either Summit Racing, the manufacturers web sites (SPEC for instance), or parts I am buying (like the 1975 tank for $50 and then refurbished for $350).

 

I know I can save a few hundred by shopping Ebay, which I intend to do. Also, I know that some parts are priced a little high, such as the Aeromotive high pressure fuel pump. I am still researching and will determine what my actual need will be. The prices shown are for a "high HP' build. I would not want to buy a part that would not be capable of supporting additional power should I decide to upgrade later.

 

Also, what are your thoughts on upgrading the turbo to a T3/T4 hybrid at this time and retaining stock injectors and the ECCS? The hybrid flows more than the stock T3, so the boost would not be turned up as high.

 

I have put this together after doing quite a bit of reading both here and on the internet. I have read both of Drax's guides as well as bumblezee's how to thread.

 

Clutch kit - 240mm SPEC Stage 2 $ 329.00

Flywheel - 240mm SPEC $ 370.00

75 Tank Refurbished $ 400.00

High Pressure Fuel Pump - Aeromotive $ 300.00

Fuel Pressure Regulator - Aeromotive $ 270.00

Fuel Relay - Painless $ 28.00

Fuel Lines $ 100.00

Fittings $ 100.00

Boost Gauge - Autometer $ 150.00

Fuel Pressure Gauge - Autometer $ 60.00

Intercooler $ 400.00

Intercooler Piping $ 100.00

Intercooler Hoses $ 50.00

By-pass Valve - Bosch - Audi TT BPV $ 50.00

Manual Boost Controller - Turbo-XS $ 130.00

Ignition Coil - Crane $ 60.00

Spark Plug Wires - Magnecor $ 50.00

Exhaust - Custom $ 250.00

 

250ish HP Build $3,197.00

 

Ignition Box - Crane - HI-6 $ 216.00

Fuel Management - Megasquirt $ 500.00

T3/T4 Turbo - Thagard $ 600.00

Injectors $ 250.00

Fuel Rail - JSK or Pallnet $ 120.00

 

300-350 HP Build $1,686.00

 

TOTAL $4,883.00

[510six]

Before you spend big bucks for an Aeromotive fuel pump(I have an Aeromotive pump on my car and it works great).You can use a Bosch 044 pump and a Mallory MAA-4305M EFI regulator.

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=MAA%2D4305M&N=700+4294925239+115&autoview=sku

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Bosch-044-Fuel-Pump-240-JX6-Scirocco-Calibra-Jaguar-New_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33555QQihZ019QQitemZ290080826054QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

 

 

Here is another fuel pump option

 

http://www.cbperformance.com/catalog.asp?ProductID=1246

 

and another fuel pressure regulator option,I used one of these units on my motor with a small T4 and it worked fine with 275 rwh.

 

http://www.cbperformance.com/catalog.asp?ProductID=318

[spork]

My question is what do you consider a high HP build? Don't forget some ARP hardware, a good headgasket and even some different pistons. Also, depending on what "high hp" is, that hybrid turbo probably won't cut the mustard. Tell us your goals, and I we can help guide you a littl;e better.

[ktm]

Maybe "high hp" is a misnomer on this site. By "high hp" I thinking 300+ rwhp, outside the capabilities of stock fuel management, stock turbo and stock injectors. Once you replace these components, then your limitation is that of the head, exhaust, pistons, etc.

 

My goal is to build-up a motor to the limitations of the stock internals, head, etc. with streetability and realibility. These factors, based on my reading is going to limit me to 300 to 350 rwhp. This is not a daily driver, but is meant for spirited trips on the weekends and the periodic trip to work.

[veritech-z]

Why not a Walbro 255 pump? They make them in both internal and external, and they're much cheaper than a lot of the alternatives. I had a buddy with an SR20det powered S13 that was using that pump with good results, and another guy with a turbo Civic that has had it in for about 50k miles now with no problems.

[ktm]

I've read that the Walbro pumps tend to be quite noisy. However, I am not so much interested in the brand at this time but simply if I have identified all the parts that I will need.

[veritech-z]

Loud pumps are good, they let you know they're still alive...

[Sparks280zt]

The walboro is noisy, I know mine is, but alot of guys use them on on Zs and I have never heard any other complaints, plus I have never seen a $150 boost gauge? I picked my 2 and 5/8s gauges up for around $50 brand new.

[Guest TeamNissan]

Loud pumps are good, they let you know they're still alive...

 

They are loud lol, I agree though. Its like pain, lets you know your still alive .

[cygnusx1]

I use the Walbro external and I barely, barely can hear it. It's mounted to an isolated bracket off the stock pump bracket. Very quiet. It also makes some serious fuel pressure and flow. It has been very reliable for three years so far. Just dont try to use the Fuel Pump Control Module from the 83. I tried and it lasted abot 2 weeks before it smoked the box!

 

If your 83 Turbocharger has high miles on it, change it now. I use a TO4B compressor with stock turbine at 15psi with stock EFI and an FMU(regulator). Next phase will be an ECU. I already have the injectors and fuel rail.

 

Your list is pretty complete and you did your research. I would just do the turbo upgrade now if the stocker is old.

[ktm]

Sparks, the boost gauge I referenced was an electric gauge. Mechanical gauges are $50. I am still debating whether or not I want an electric or mechanical gauge.

 

On my old 2002 Audi S4, people were split between mechanical and electric gauges. The Audi use to have an oily blow-by in the intake piping which would make its way into the gauge tubing. Since the tubing goes into the car with a mechanical gauge, it could get a little messy.

[cygnusx1]

I use a $13 mechanical gauge from JC Whitney. Been working great for three years. Yes I build on a budget but the gauge checks out accurate enough with a bicycle pump so why not?

[510six]

For 300rwh and for 150 the CB Performance pump isn`t a bad deal.

 

http://www.cbperformance.com/catalog.asp?ProductID=1246

 

Your not really looking at making really large horsepower numbers, even a Volvo 740 turbo fuel pump would work just fine.

 

 

The VDO boost gauge they sell is less than $30

 

https://secure.cbperformance.com/catalog.asp?ProductID=1198

[Clifton]

I don't know if you are on a budget or not.

 

I have a walbro 255hp in both Z's. They are good for an easy 500rwhp. Mine aren't noisy. Stock regualtors are fine too with Walbros, unless you want an after market one. $400 sounds like alot ot refurb a fuel tank. You can get 24x12x4" intercoolers on ebay for under $200. Don't really need a fp gauge, if you have an afpr use a cheapo pressure gauge to set it and you're done. I would go MSII and use edis. You could skip the crane box and save $200 and have waste spark. I would look at act clutches. They seem to hold more torque. I know for supra there PP's don't have more clamp but the act one do. Alot of MKIII people have issues with spec. Maybe there Nissan stuff is a little better. They have a higher torque rating listed here. http://www.clutchcityonline.com/act1.htm

[ihatejoefitz]

Personally, I would ditch the 75 tank, there are several of us running stock 240 tanks just by relocating the outlet to drain plug. Cost ~ $5-10 (including block off caps)

 

I would add an electric fan - $30 (Ford Taurus j-yard brand)

 

I would definitely consider upgrading your brakes now as well.

 

Ebay is your friend. The cost estimations you've got are pretty exagerated, but its nicer to guess too high, than too low.

 

-Joe

[savageskaterkid]

My MSD 2225 pump is awesome, and noisy. I actually like it to be noisy, that why when something is not working, I can automaticly trash the idea of a bad pump. My mechanic had said the pump wasn't putting out enough pressure, and I would need a new one. "Can't be, this is a NEW MSD pump" Upon further inspection, it was putting out 100psi of pressure, all I needed was 40psi, my FPR was bad.

[ktm]

Thank all of you for your input. I had forgotten about the electric fan (a mod I wanted to do) as well as the 240sx TB and spacer.

 

Yes, some of the costs are a bit exaggerated, but I needed some idea about my potential budget. I am not going to say that money is no issue, but I am unfazed at the prospect of spending upwards of $3000.

 

Joe, what kind of fitting are you running in your drain plug? I read about alternatives such as using the existing feed line as the return and running the new feed line from the plug (like yours), or installing a sump.

 

Clifton, I am not really on a budget, nor do I feel the need to buy the best and most expensive parts either. ACT is on my list of clutches as well. I have been looking at both and only included SPEC in this list. I have a spreadsheet with various builds as well as parts suppliers and costs (and model numbers too).

 

As far as the IC goes, this is one place not to buy a cheap part. I am looking at both cooling efficiency as well as pressure drops across the IC. Many of the cheap ICs may cool the charge air, but they may have a bit of pressure drop from inlet to outlet as well.

[Forrest]

There's no reason to spend 270$ on an FPR. You can even use the stock one.

 

I'd add a wideband controller and sensor like the LC-1 to your second list.

 

Also, I'd put an aftermarket downpipe higher than several of the things on that list.

 

Good luck!

[ktm]

I do not have a stock FPR (L24 with SUs). I put a rising rate FPR in there for now.

 

I had forgotten about a wide-band O2 sensor. Thanks!

[cygnusx1]

There IS a reason to use a rising rate regulator. To run the stock injectors and injection over 9-10psi, you will need to raise your fuel rail pressure in proportion to boost. Stock injectors and injection can take you to about 15-16psi and about 270-290 rwhp with good rail pressure.

 

It is endless. Good luck.