John Scott Posted February 7, 2002 Share Posted February 7, 2002 Now that I have the motor coming along, I need to start the research into brakes and suspension. I've been visiting with a few Hybrid members and am wondering if rear discs are really necessary for street use. I want to have the ability to haul down from triple digits and ocassional canyon run without problems. Sounds like some who race pretty regularly just have big nasty front brakes and leave the rears a drum setup. 4 wheel disc is nice to look at, but do I need it? Opinions please. JS Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeromio Posted February 7, 2002 Share Posted February 7, 2002 From what I've read (here and elsewhere), performance of drums vs. discs on the lightweight little Z is pretty much a wash. The main reason I switched over was that my drums needed replacing - I couldn't justify spending that time/money on new drums. Discs are sooooooo much easier to maintain and work on. My advice is that if you're not doing anything else to the rear end (switching to CVs or changing bearings or anything) and the drums and shoes are in good shape, then just leave it alone. But when the drums or shoes wear out, that's a good time to weigh your options. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest scca Posted February 7, 2002 Share Posted February 7, 2002 1) drums work ok with properly setup shoes 2) theyre ugly under 16" or larger rims 3) PITA to work on 4) shoes cost more than pads in the long run they overheat faster if performance use, and NO real race car has drums on the rear UNLESS required by the rules......... with alum drums NLA disks are a better option all around Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Scott Posted February 7, 2002 Author Share Posted February 7, 2002 Originally posted by scca: and NO real race car has drums on the rear UNLESS required by the rules......... To me a REAL race car is one that is purpose built dedicated, trailored to the track with no intentions of driving on public roads. There are street cars that race and never-seen-a-track street cars equipped more formidably than race cars. Your points are well taken. For reasons above I'll consider the rears as well. JS Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest jens Posted February 7, 2002 Share Posted February 7, 2002 On the street (normal almost legal driving)rear discbrakes is only for look. Remember that the you get a very bad handbrake unless it has the handbrake in the disc. Is there a cheaper drum that can be easily modified to a z as its illegal to change to rearbrakes in europe unless its a factory option. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikelly Posted February 7, 2002 Share Posted February 7, 2002 Well John...Since you are considering them...BUY MINE!!!! Check the forsale section! Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Scott Posted February 7, 2002 Author Share Posted February 7, 2002 Tempting, Mike, but I like my 4 lug centerlines. JS Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim240z Posted February 7, 2002 Share Posted February 7, 2002 I'll chime in here just to reiterate what's already been mentioned by the above esteemed members: It is a HELLAVA lot easier to maintain disk brakes. Changing shoes are a PITA!, compared to pads, although shoes will generally last a bit longer. Also, you won't have to worry about the adjustment mechanism not working properly etc...worth the initial effort to change to disks IMO. My setup cost me less than 50 bucks and some labor at the JY, and although I won't be sure the calipers are 100% functional for some time....even if I have to replace them, I still feel I'm ahead. I'm currently having major issues with the rear brakes on my daily driver, so this topic is 'near and dear' to me right now. I'm driving around with only the front brakes operating! Tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted February 7, 2002 Share Posted February 7, 2002 I am going with the (easy front bolt on) 1979-85 Toyota 4x4 calipers (that I got free with new pads)and stock Datsun rears to see what happens with a proportioning valve and 2 plus 2 280Z vaccum booster. The discs would look nice in the rear but with my wheels... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
260DET Posted February 8, 2002 Share Posted February 8, 2002 Lots of good advice above, here is mine. Unless you are going to upgrade your front rotors to vented, around 290mm dia or larger, plus 4 spot calipers like Outlaws, I'd keep the stock drums at the rear. From a performance balance perspective that is, maint. is another issue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Zpeed Posted February 8, 2002 Share Posted February 8, 2002 I'm changing my rear drums, for one reason mainly, i don't like the look of them under 17inch wheels, and I'll prefer discs for ease of changing pads, rather than shoes, and not breathing in all that dust that comes at ya when you are changing the shoes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedNeckZ Posted February 9, 2002 Share Posted February 9, 2002 I didn't think I would needed them until I was racing at stapletion airport race track. They got so hot that I had no brakes at all. Was using semi-metal pads in both the front and back. Before I went to the 2000 convention in Las Vegas, I changed over to flat plate early/later model 280ZX rear disc brake setup. Also added the 300ZX front dics setup with the S12W toyota calibers to the front. Made a big change to the stopping power of the car. Got to test them on the Las Vegas NASCAR track, they let us drive around at speed. They never overheated and lasted longer then I did (overheated). Haven't had any problems with them on the streets of Greeley. Also work pretty good coming down from Este Park at speeds. It is being done to all of the other Z I have. I do like it a lot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest jens Posted February 9, 2002 Share Posted February 9, 2002 Is it illegal to renovate the old drums and brakeshoes in america as i have done on this picture. http://www.brems.subnet.dk/tromle.JPG Its much cheaper and often much better than new as the rebuilt brakeshoes is made to fit perfect in the refreshed drums. The disc isnt easier to fit because you got to adjust the manual handbrake anyway and if your serius about your discs performance and look you will refresh them like i do. the reardiscs get rusty and ugly in a cold climate because its the front that does 60-65% of the braking. Refreshed calipers with integrated handbrake is 150-250$ and the integrated handbrakes tend to fail often if not used enough. But if its only driven in the summertime with big wheels its a must with a good looking brake system. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Scott Posted February 9, 2002 Author Share Posted February 9, 2002 Originally posted by RedNeckZ: Haven't had any problems with them on the streets of Greeley. Also work pretty good coming down from Este Park at speeds. Richard, So you were the Z bluring by me on 10 st? Gotta have good stoppers for those RVs in the canyon One of these days we'll have to get together. JS Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZR8ED Posted February 9, 2002 Share Posted February 9, 2002 Unless your are balls to the wall flat out racing..then I believe the drum setup is plenty capable....that is with upgraded front brakes. I have the 4 Runner calipers with the 300zxt vented rotors with metal master pads.. I have stock aluminum drums in the back. I had several repeated highspeed braking action from 148mph while racing with a Ferrari, and I stomped those brakes with all the force they could suffer, and let me tell you.. it is a good thing I have racing harnesses in the car...IT STOPS!!!!!!!!! I have pushed the car for 20+ laps at a time at local race tracks that my club rents, and never had braking problems...(stock front brakes with good pads not withstanding) that is why I upgraded the fronts anyways.. until I start pushing 400+ hp neither I nor my race car builder/mechanic are too concerned.. Worry about the fronts.. they do 70% of the stopping anyways.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedNeckZ Posted February 10, 2002 Share Posted February 10, 2002 Hello John, What color Z do you drve? I have the split Red/Black one that does travel in Greeley. It does have disc's all the way around. Let me know and if I see you out there, we can stop and talk shop. Love to talk about Z's. Take care. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Scott Posted February 10, 2002 Author Share Posted February 10, 2002 Richard, mine is BRIGHT orange, with polished 5 spoke centerines, 3 1/2 exhaust tip.., usually hear it a block before you'd see it, now on jackstands in the garage. Usually in a white 99 F150 4x4 ext cab longbed. If I spot you I'll be sure to flag you down. I'm sure I've seen your car, but usually going another direction. JS Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest zthang43 Posted February 13, 2002 Share Posted February 13, 2002 Has anyone used steel drums from a 510 on their z? The JTR manual says they work better, but require a proportioning valve. Do they help with fade at all? I use my e-brake a lot (for tight turns, not parking; I disabled the lock so it just snaps back down when you let go) but with the 245/60/15's I just put on the rear brakes seem to be lacking a little. Who makes a good set of performance shoes and pads for the Z, for a street car with occasional autocrossing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
260DET Posted February 14, 2002 Share Posted February 14, 2002 That JTR manual recommendation is puzzling. The finned aluminium part of the Z drum is designed to improve heat dissapation. My bet is that the factory knew what they were doing. When I replaced my Z drums with discs, a hot 510 owner bought the aluminium drums. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted February 14, 2002 Share Posted February 14, 2002 When aluminum gets hot it stays hot with little heat disapation. Steel cools much faster than aluminum. I have worked with both in making knives and handle parts.Been burned by cooling aluminum many times. Aluminum was used for electical home wiring until it was discovered how long it could stay hot from an overload Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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