Calico Posted February 21, 2007 Share Posted February 21, 2007 I noticed for simplicity alot of folks aren't running the a/c on their lt1 swaps. I hear that the lt1 compressor has clearence issues being that its on the bottom of the motor it hits the frame. Does anyone experince with the corvette assesorie set-up which relocates the compressor on the top? Jus thinking.... http://www.geocities.com/texaslt1/lt1swap/swap.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deja Posted February 21, 2007 Share Posted February 21, 2007 That will probably work but from what I have read you would need to buy a Corvette compressor too. I just went through this search and thanks to many including Bartman I ordered this: http://www.bowersrodshop.com/info_pulley.htm Also at Bartman's warning you need to "message" the driver's side shock tower to get some more clearance for the mount if you're using JTR mounts. But the nice thing is the kit includes the AC delete for the original compressor position and the correct belt and all the mounting hardware. Price isn't all that bad. I haven't received mine yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Calico Posted February 21, 2007 Author Share Posted February 21, 2007 if you are using the johnscars mounts do you still need to massage the tower? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deja Posted February 21, 2007 Share Posted February 21, 2007 if you are using the johnscars mounts do you still need to massage the tower? I don't know how much forward the johnscar mounts would put your engine. Search for Bartman. In his signature there is a pict of his setup using JTR and the Bower AC mount. You can see where the mounts sits close to the corner of the tower. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bartman Posted February 21, 2007 Share Posted February 21, 2007 I noticed for simplicity alot of folks aren't running the a/c on their lt1 swaps. I hear that the lt1 compressor has clearence issues being that its on the bottom of the motor it hits the frame. Does anyone experince with the corvette assesorie set-up which relocates the compressor on the top? Jus thinking....http://www.geocities.com/texaslt1/lt1swap/swap.html The Corvette type accessory setup will not fit on a Z car because it is too wide. I don't have my JTR manual handy, but I believe this is discussed in it. The Bowers setup relocates the compressor to the upper outside on the driver's side, but not as far out as it would be if you used the Corvette accessory system (which I believe puts the compressor on the passenger's side). I talked with Zoop and a few other's as well and none of them would fit the Z. The only solutions I've found are the Bowers setup or fabricating your own. With John's SBC kit you may have a little more clearance to the shock towers and less clearance vertically. This is because the engine is farther forward and this would probably help move the compressor bracket away from the shock tower and closer to the hood (I don't know if John's setup has the engine itself higher, lower, or at the same height of the JTR setup). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbc3 Posted February 22, 2007 Share Posted February 22, 2007 I have the stock F-body A/C compressor running my A/C in my 280Z. I made my own mounting plate and mounted my compressor on the drivers side. It actually comes out just along the outside edge of the valve cover. I made my bracket in a similar shape and to the Bowers bracket, but mine is made of solid billet aluminum. I also had this guy help me get all of the correct adaptor parts and hoses to make my A/C work. http://www.rayeveritt.com/Parts/Hoses/Hoses.html Good luck, Jody Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deja Posted February 22, 2007 Share Posted February 22, 2007 I have the stock F-body A/C compressor running my A/C in my 280Z. I made my own mounting plate and mounted my compressor on the drivers side. It actually comes out just along the outside edge of the valve cover.I made my bracket in a similar shape and to the Bowers bracket, but mine is made of solid billet aluminum. I also had this guy help me get all of the correct adaptor parts and hoses to make my A/C work. http://www.rayeveritt.com/Parts/Hoses/Hoses.html Good luck, Jody Did you do that on a CNC? You should produce them, probably sell a ton of them. How did you do the serpentine belt? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m1noel Posted February 22, 2007 Share Posted February 22, 2007 I only have the experience with the John's kit for the LS1. It moves the AC to the driver side, different compressor, but it has plenty of room and the kit comes with all the hoses, and a new drier and pressure switch. Darned easy and for a very fair price. And it worked with a stock Camaro serpentine belt. Anyone want a good GTO belt? Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Calico Posted February 22, 2007 Author Share Posted February 22, 2007 I guess I will have to look into the bowers set up then! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Calico Posted February 22, 2007 Author Share Posted February 22, 2007 hey I was curious what about the older tpi l98 cars? Does anyone have any a/c issues with them? how is their clearences? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Calico Posted February 22, 2007 Author Share Posted February 22, 2007 bartman how much was that vintage air, a/c system? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bartman Posted February 22, 2007 Share Posted February 22, 2007 bartman how much was that vintage air, a/c system? I didn't keep track, but I'd venture to say somewhere in the neighborhood of $1200 for everything (bracket, compressor, condensor, evaporator, dryer, lines, upgraded control panel, etc.) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
love-my-V8-280Z Posted February 23, 2007 Share Posted February 23, 2007 You can make and install your brackets if you want to make the effort. I made these in my garage and bought pulleys at NAPA. It was somewhat of a pain to get it all lined up. Anyway here is two pics of how I went about it. I used the stock motor a/c, I still have not hooked it up so I can be no help there... I'm sure willing to help out if anyone has any questions.. Belt length, pulley size etc... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbc3 Posted February 23, 2007 Share Posted February 23, 2007 I bought a 3/4" 6061 billet plate for about $30. I made the initial shape out of cardboard and cut the aluminum out on a friend's band saw and finished it with a belt sander and a drum sander. (I also made my LT1 A/C and power steering delete bracket out of the same piece of aluminum.) It also needed a pulley to help get the belt around the bottom of the water pump ( same as the Bower bracket). To get the correct alignment of the bracket, I mocked it up with stacks of washers spacing it off the block and driver side head. Once I got it to line up, I cut 1" billet aluminum rod with a center hole drilled in it to the right length for the spacers (I had that laying around). The parts from Ray Everett were only a couple of hundred dollars and the remaining parts I scavanged off of my doner F-body. I had a belt from my Suburban in the garage and it almost fit, so I bought one 2 inches longer and it fit perfectly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deja Posted February 23, 2007 Share Posted February 23, 2007 I bought a 3/4" 6061 billet plate for about $30. I made the initial shape out of cardboard and cut the aluminum out on a friend's band saw and finished it with a belt sander and a drum sander. (I also made my LT1 A/C and power steering delete bracket out of the same piece of aluminum.) It also needed a pulley to help get the belt around the bottom of the water pump ( same as the Bower bracket). To get the correct alignment of the bracket, I mocked it up with stacks of washers spacing it off the block and driver side head. Once I got it to line up, I cut 1" billet aluminum rod with a center hole drilled in it to the right length for the spacers (I had that laying around). The parts from Ray Everett were only a couple of hundred dollars and the remaining parts I scavanged off of my doner F-body. I had a belt from my Suburban in the garage and it almost fit, so I bought one 2 inches longer and it fit perfectly. You are the fabricator................ koo, koo, kachoo! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Calico Posted February 23, 2007 Author Share Posted February 23, 2007 what radiator and fan is everyone using/recommend? Also I am curious what are you guys doing for power steering and a/c lines? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbc3 Posted February 23, 2007 Share Posted February 23, 2007 Stock F-body fans No power steering! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deja Posted February 23, 2007 Share Posted February 23, 2007 Stock F-body fans I noticed that in your picts. Is that a JTR radiator or the equivalent (fin area 20.75 x 17.5)? I was thinking I may be able to squeeze my Z28 fans in there staggering them like you did using a homemade bracket. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbc3 Posted February 23, 2007 Share Posted February 23, 2007 I noticed that in your picts. Is that a JTR radiator or the equivalent (fin area 20.75 x 17.5)? I was thinking I may be able to squeeze my Z28 fans in there staggering them like you did using a homemade bracket. Yes it is the JTR radiator and brackets. I took the stock Fbody fans out of the shroud and made brackets for them. Nothing fancy, but they pull a TON of air. They just barely fit. I tried actually using the factory shroud and trimming it, but this worked out so much better IMO. I have the factory 2 stage fan control set-up with relays. It works great. Jody Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danno74Z Posted February 23, 2007 Share Posted February 23, 2007 JBC3, I have a couple of questions for you. In your first picture down below the A/C compressor next to the frame rail you have an adaptor with two lines going into it, what is this for? I'm guessing it is for the A/C in and out. In order to mount the compressor on to your bracket did you have to take it apart? Where are the lines to the evaporator and dryer? Lastly, what is this fitting inside the white rectangle? THANKS Danno74Z Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.