Braided Fuel Line Routing and Sleeving Questions

[ktm]

I am running stainless steel braided lines for my supply and return on my L28T swap. Right now I am in the process of mocking up my route using 5/8" clear plastic tubing which is approximately the same diameter as the -6 braided line I am using.

 

I am wondering where I should route the lines. I had an epiphany when mocking up one route. One alignment has it running down the driver side of the tranny tunnel, over the ebrake bracket, between the ebrake plate, and then overtop the differential. This aligns the supply line perfectly with the outlet of the fuel pump (to be placed on the inclined surface above the rear frame rail). However, it's a tight fit and I was worried about abraiding the SS line. After looking at the clear tubing, I then thought that I could sleeve the fuel line with a clear plastic line (wall thickness is substantial) until I get far enough up the tranny tunnel to then use brackets. Thoughts?

 

Also, where have some of you, who are running braided lines all the way up and back, routing your lines?

[RB26powered74zcar]

I have a braided -10 feed, and a -8 return going up the trans tunnel to the motor from a 12 gal fuel cell.

 

I used fasteners with a rubber coating on them to hold the lines along the bottom edge of the tunnel.

 

Its kind of hard to see the tunnel, but you should get the idea....

 

 

[ktm]

I was going to originally run the along the bottom of the tunnel. However, after mocking up my fuel pump location (Walbro), I could not see how I was going to get the line to the fuel pump. It looks like your system is low enough to allow you to go underneath the moustache bar.

 

Thanks for the reply.

[Mike Rowe]

I have a braided -10 feed, and a -8 return going up the trans tunnel to the motor from a 12 gal fuel cell.

 

Hi Joel, I have had my surge tank built and I was goung to bolt it to the moustache bar. Do you think there will be any problems with this? ie does the moustache bar move much? I am also thinking of bolting my hp fuel pump on it. What do you think?

 

regards

[Mike Rowe]

Joel, regards fuel lines - my race shop has said to use -6 flex lines to and fro and -8 just from the surge tank to the Bosch pump. You've gone a lot bigger, do you think my lines will be too small?

[RB26powered74zcar]

Not to sure on the mounting to the MB. I don't think it moves enough to cause you grief, unless its against something else, and rubs...

 

The fuel lines on mine are kinda over kill, really.... I think a -8 feed line, and -6 return would be ok, except for major RWHP motors. I have two -8's coming off the fuel cell, into twin Walbro's, into the filter/ water separator, Y'd into a -10 to the fuel rail, then -8 back to the cell return.

[ktm]

The moustache bar (and the two adjacent upright supports) are made of a hellaciously strong metal. It will take a machine shop to drill it. Saying that, I would be leary of drilling the moustache bar. It is a spring and does flex under load.

[Mike Rowe]

thanks guys for your advice, sounds like I wont be just drilling the bar witjh my hand drill! Will have to find another attachment point

regards

[Pop N Wood]

thanks guys for your advice, sounds like I wont be just drilling the bar witjh my hand drill! Will have to find another attachment point

regards

 

I tried mounting my pump to the metal piece that comes down to the control arm mount. Half a dozen drill bits later I gave up.

 

What I did do is build a metal bracket that mounted to a sheet metal cross brace just above the mustache bar, then fit kinda of a double L shaped sheet metal bracket under the control arm bolts to mount the bottom of it.

 

Should work great.

[Mike Rowe]

What I did do is build a metal bracket that mounted to a sheet metal cross brace just above the mustache bar, then fit kinda of a double L shaped sheet metal bracket under the control arm bolts to mount the bottom of it.

 

Any chance of a couple of photos either here or to my email address?

 

regards

[Pop N Wood]

The top part is just drilled and tapped into the car cross piece. To mount the bottom, I sandwiched a piece of sheet metal behind the two bolts that hold the rear diff cross member to the down piece. I bent the sheet metal part into kind of a Z shape. In the bottom pic you can see two screws just behind the pump that secure the upper bracket to the sheet metal Z. You have to do some filing on the sheet metal peice to clearance the bolts and control arm.

 

 

[Mike Rowe]

Thanks very much for the photos. I will see what I can do with my setup

[RIP260Z]

http://zhp.satokikaku.com/zgazou/s.jpg

 

Or you could use the OEM fuel pump bracket, found on both US and Australian zeds (though not on all models). (Oh and also Japan... this pic not mine, but it shows you what it is) There are threaded holes on the chassis already. Its intended for carbed cars, but as you see on the pic, its a perfect place to mount a injection pump too.

 

Hope that helps

Ian

[Pop N Wood]

http://zhp.satokikaku.com/zgazou/s.jpg

 

Or you could use the OEM fuel pump bracket, found on both US and Australian zeds (though not on all models). (Oh and also Japan... this pic not mine, but it shows you what it is) There are threaded holes on the chassis already. Its intended for carbed cars, but as you see on the pic, its a perfect place to mount a injection pump too.

 

Hope that helps

Ian

 

I like that set up. I had a drawing of the stock FP mount but it wasn't obvious from the illustration I had how it mounted. Also my 1970 doesn't seem to have the same mounting brackets. You can kind of see that in my first pic. There is a hole, but no bracket.

 

I thought about doing something similar but I didn't like how far down the mounting bracket had to come. I also was thinking about what would happen should a halfshaft fail. I guess the stock bracket will sheild the pump from that. I'll have to look closer tonight.

[bjhines]

I had one of those Mallory pumps on a truck and it wore the motor brushes out yearly. after the second set of brushes the commutator was so grooved I chucked the pump in the garbage.

[zgeezer]

The top part is just drilled and tapped into the car cross piece. To mount the bottom, I sandwiched a piece of sheet metal behind the two bolts that hold the rear diff cross member to the down piece. I bent the sheet metal part into kind of a Z shape. In the bottom pic you can see two screws just behind the pump that secure the upper bracket to the sheet metal Z. You have to do some filing on the sheet metal peice to clearance the bolts and control arm.

 

 

 

I know late model 260Zs with carbs have a heavy fuel pump/filter bracket. It is the same as the 280Z's fuel injection pump/filter bracket. I understand that 240Z JDM versions had electric fuel pumps that mounted on the three captive nuts on the cross members. You can see where they are mounted here:

 

I drilled and tapped the cross brace I used to fit my LSD finned cover to allow an alluminum plate to be mounted just in front of the fuel supply and return fittings. I'll post pictures of both next week. You can mount the later two piece pump mount on an earlier 240, but it requires some drilling and, perhaps, a nut insert.

g

[ktm]

This thread was duly highjacked. I will say that I was able to mount my Walbro pump using the stock captive nuts in the crossmember and the two mounting brackets that came with the pump. Since my pump lies on its side as opposed to the Holley's, etc. that must be vertical, it worked out well.

[Tony D]

All I can add, is make sure whatever fuel lines you use, that in the area of the flywheel it is behind at least a 6" wide strap of 1/4" thick steel.

 

The last thing you need is the clutch, flywheel, or pressure plate to frag out something and cut a fuel line as it passes through unimpeded. On the Bonneville car, we passed our brake lines (fuel lines and cell are all up front) through a section of Sch 80 Piping that we secured to the frame rail with some padded Adel Clamps. Second to last thing you want, is after it frags, cuts the lines, and starts a fire...is to find you have no brakes to stop quickly...