proxlamus© Posted May 10, 2007 Author Share Posted May 10, 2007 Ok i'm reading the Holset HY35W service manual. Oil leaking from the turbine housing indicates the following : *Restrictive turbocharger oil drain line (remove restriction or replace damaged parts) *Restrictive engine crankcase breather (refer to engine manufactors manual, clear restriction *Turbocharger bearing housing sludged or coked (change engine oil and oil filter, overhaul or replace turbocharger) *Worn engine pistons rings or liners (refer to engine manyfactureres manual and repair as required) *Burnt valves and/or pistons (refer to engine manyfactureres manual and repair as required) *Excessive dirt build up on compressor wheel and/or diffuser vanes (clean in accordance with details in appropriate Holset publication *Turbocharger damaged (find anc correct cause of failure, repair or replace turbo as necessary) Could the turbo be coked?! well thats a possibility... Worn engine rings/pistons rings?! Well no because all of my cylinders read the same compression and my plugs are not fouled. Bad valves or valve seals?! If oil was leaking through the valve seals or valves, the smoke would occur on start up.. NOT after 5 min and the exhuast is nice and toasty. Plus my plugs would be fouled with oil correct?! Turbo is clean clean clean.. so I have no effn idea Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
proxlamus© Posted May 10, 2007 Author Share Posted May 10, 2007 What do you guys think of an engine driven or electric vacuum pump!? Alot of the big drag cars, with a low idle vacuum use these to decrease blow by?! Airplanes use vacuum pumps as well. Maybe I can grab a Volvo or SAAB "cruise" vacuum pump and maybe generate 18" in. hg. and see if it'll fix anything. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tombarace14 Posted May 10, 2007 Share Posted May 10, 2007 I have an Altima thats my DD and it dosent smoke on startup. But it will smoke after it idles for awhile once warm. It needs valve seals youre car might need them too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimZ Posted May 11, 2007 Share Posted May 11, 2007 What do you guys think of an engine driven or electric vacuum pump!? Alot of the big drag cars, with a low idle vacuum use these to decrease blow by?! Airplanes use vacuum pumps as well. Maybe I can grab a Volvo or SAAB "cruise" vacuum pump and maybe generate 18" in. hg. and see if it'll fix anything. My car only pulls ~5"hg at idle, and I do not have this problem. My PCV system is plumbed essentially like the stock setup - block vent to the PCV, which is plumbed to manifold vacuum, and crank vent to the turbine inlet. Both have oil separators inline, but otherwise the same configuration as stock. Find the actual problem before looking for exotic solutions - the stock setup works just fine, so long as things as plumbed correctly, and nothing is clogged. Adding a pump at this point would only be a very expensive and overly complex band-aid. Are you certain that the PCV valve is plumbed correctly? If it's check valve is backwards (possible if it's not the stock pcv), you would be pressurizing the block, for instance. Also, somebody else already asked this I think, but how long are you giving it before concluding that it's still broke? If the turbo seal (or whatever) dumped a bunch of oil in the exhaust system, it would proably act like you describe (i.e., doesn't smoke at startup, then starts smoking after things have warmed up a bit), and it could easily take 30 to 45 minutes of freeway driving (constant load) to clear it all out. Driving for 5 or 10 minutes is probably not enough. Idling for 5 or 10 minutes is definitely not enough. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
proxlamus© Posted May 11, 2007 Author Share Posted May 11, 2007 Tim I checked the PCV valve... it is flowing propely.. opens during vacuum closes during boost. with the car idling I can tell the block is under vacuum, as when I pull my oil dipstick you can hear the baby hissing... so that's a good thing. I think I will try pulling the turbo off and driving it around for 10 minutes or so.. if the car smokes its the engine. If it doesnt smoke I know its the turbo. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
george.bryant Posted May 22, 2007 Share Posted May 22, 2007 My inlet manifold is off. And this needs to be sorted out, so i'm gonna move my PCV valve ASAP. Whats the best way to clean out the manifold after drilling etc? Where abouts should I drill and tap for the PCV valve? Would it be be ok where I have made the red marking? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zmanco Posted May 22, 2007 Share Posted May 22, 2007 Where abouts should I drill and tap for the PCV valve? Would it be be ok where I have made the red marking? Look at the plug that is about 4-5" to the right of your red mark. That's where the PCV is installed on my manifold. Can't tell from this picture, but the hole may already be the correct size. Mine was. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
george.bryant Posted May 22, 2007 Share Posted May 22, 2007 Haha yes. tahts because that plug is where the PCV was installed. Until upgrading the turbo to the rb20det unit I cant fit the PCV valve there as its too long. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
proxlamus© Posted May 22, 2007 Author Share Posted May 22, 2007 OK I did some tests I can hold the throttle at 4,000 RPM for example and no smoke. When I let off and let the car widn back down to idle and then quickly add gas it shoots a CLOUD of smoke. SOO.. narrowing it down.. smoke is only during deceleration and/or when the engine is winding down. Does this point out any possibilites?! BTW i purchased a new valve spring compressor so I'll change them tomarrow with the head on. but I was hoping my description might help. I think Garrett is on to the right idea.. on decel or engine wind down.. the vacuum goes to about 20" in. hg. while idle is 10" in hg. seems like the increased vacuum is pulling in oil from maybe the valve stem seals!? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cygnusx1 Posted May 22, 2007 Share Posted May 22, 2007 You described classic valve guide/seal leakage symptoms. Is your vacuum gauge steady at idle? If the vacuum gauge pulses, that also indicated leaking valve guides. http://www.centuryperformance.com/vacuum.asp Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
proxlamus© Posted May 22, 2007 Author Share Posted May 22, 2007 the guage is fairly steady.. obviously idle isnt exactly at 600rpm.. so it bounces around 550-700rpm untill nice and warm.. so the vacuum guage will fluctuate .5" in. hg. but nothing big and stays solid once warmed up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted May 22, 2007 Share Posted May 22, 2007 I do believe smoke on decel is a sign of bad rings too. I remember my buddy telling me about his truck shooting thick clouds of oil smoke through the Yosemite valley when he was going downhill with bad rings and engine braking to try and preserve the brakes... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
proxlamus© Posted May 22, 2007 Author Share Posted May 22, 2007 Alright.. Well I changed the valve seals.. some Viton valve stem seals from Fel-Pro I bought many many many months ago. Took about 2 hrs I am going to give it a drive after a quick shower. BTW - This valve spring compressor ROCKS!!! http://www.mytoolstore.com/kd/kdengi13.html#3087 (its on the very bottom part number KD 3087) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
george.bryant Posted May 22, 2007 Share Posted May 22, 2007 My inlet manifold is off. And this needs to be sorted out, so i'm gonna move my PCV valve ASAP. Whats the best way to clean out the manifold after drilling etc? Where abouts should I drill and tap for the PCV valve? Would it be be ok where I have made the red marking? ????? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
proxlamus© Posted May 22, 2007 Author Share Posted May 22, 2007 Welp. Still smokes.. SON OF A ♥♥♥♥♥♥♥ PIECE OF ♥♥♥♥♥♥♥ ♥♥♥♥ ******* ENGINE Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
george.bryant Posted May 22, 2007 Share Posted May 22, 2007 that sucks to hear. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
proxlamus© Posted May 22, 2007 Author Share Posted May 22, 2007 Could it be the rings?! even if adding oil increases the compression numbers by 10psi?! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
proxlamus© Posted May 22, 2007 Author Share Posted May 22, 2007 BTW maybe I should clarify. doing a HOT DRY test at 5,800 feet up.. with a P90 head and F54 block, with a 2mm headgasket and aftermarket cam... I had 100psi across the board and 110psi WET! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steveosupremeo Posted May 23, 2007 Share Posted May 23, 2007 thats the classic compression test to see if rings are bad. if the compression goes up then the rings are typically worn. if it doesn't then its usually a prob with the head. looks like you need some rings bro. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
proxlamus© Posted May 23, 2007 Author Share Posted May 23, 2007 Compression will go up anytime you add oil.. even if its a new motor. 10psi is a normal number to indicate the rings are good. a 20-50psi jump is a blatently obvious sign that I would need new rings. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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