Connecting Rod quality

[jl87ma]

i wanted to know if any of you had the choice to have custom connecting rods made for a japanese motor who would you choose crower, pauter, or oliver any other choices are welcomed. Thanks guys

[BRAAP]

Oliver and Pauter are very well known as being some of the biggest player in the con rod market.

 

Just curious, what are you building that requires such an exotic con rod?

[TimZ]

I've been very happy with my Cunningham rods

[jl87ma]

hey guys thanks for the replys. Im the kind of guy that wants the best i dk always been like that. Its a bad think cause u spend a ♥♥♥♥ load of money but im just like that. I want to build an N/A motor with nothing but the best.

 

I know mahle pistons are the best out there

 

now inext inline are connecting rods

[jl87ma]

bump

[jl87ma]

bump

[dr_hunt]

Your question has been answered, no need to bump.

[BRAAP]

Now you really have my curiosity peaked. So you are building an N/A L-28. Is this a dedicated mega RPM race engine or a just a hot street engine?

 

So you have a piston manufacturer picked out, and now are looking at rods. Have you looked into cranks yet? If your build up “requires” aftermarket rods, then you really need to pick out a crank as well for reliability issues because the stock rods with some minimal prep will outlast the stock crank. (The OE bottom end is bomb proof to everything except, oil starvation, and extreme RPM).

 

Being as you are purchasing aftermarket pistons, rods and crank, I’m assuming you’ll be taking full advantage of all that money being spent on those custom ordered pieces and are wisely building this engine with as much displacement as possible, i.e. custom stroker billet crank, custom “long” rods, custom pistons for those cool "long" rods and long stroke billet crank, etc… If money is spent not only for the best name in manufacturing, it only follows that those custom exotic pieces help produce as much power as possible! You can easily drop $10,000 into the bottom end all for a mere 300-320 HP. Then you still have the head to deal with which is where the power comes from and can easily add $5000 or more in head work, cam, valves, etc. There are much easier and less expensive paths to that much and even more power for a hot street engine. For record setting race only engines, you'll need all the reliability that those exotic parts offer.

 

 

FWIW, if you don’t plan to spin it past 8000 PRM very often, the OE crank and rods are totally up to the task in an N/A application. Within these limits, exotic parts are nothing more than “bragging” pieces on the "show&shine" plaque. The engines actual performance should dictate the exoticness of the parts used.

 

If maximum performance is what you are seeking, not just a brag list for a “show&shine” plaque, then give a call to Sunbelt or Rebello and have them quote a "build up" to the power level you are seeking. Trust me, that engine will produce more power, be more reliable, and cost you less than if you built it yourself with all those cool exotic parts.

 

 

Hope that helps,

Paul

[jl87ma]

thats the kind of answer i was looking for. Thank you very much. Well the reason i look at "exotic pieces as you call them is because i just have the notion that they will outlast the not so well known ones. for example i feel like if i buy a mahle piston it will live longer than a JE piston. Eventhough i would love to build a L28 im looking into building a KA24E. thanks braap ur response was awesome

[Tony D]

I'm going to throw out something as well:

We are currently running an L20A Six, using L20B rods. Something like 145mm length... But they are stock Nissan Rods from two different 720 Trucks (if I recall) weight matched, and prepped.

 

This engine is running an offset ground (destroked slightly) L20A crankshaft and makes peak power at 8750rpms. Dyno pulls have been done to 9500 rpms for evaluation of the assembly.

 

For some applications (N/A Particularly) doing rods may be a bit of overkill unless, as Braap stated, you want some 540 Gram Merchart Investment-Cast Lightweight assemblies to absolutely minimize the weight of the rotating / reciprocating assembly. And like he mentioned, then you cut down the counterweights, use Mallory Metal (Tungsten) to balance the thing with the shorter counterweight throws... etc etc etc...

 

Assembly care makes more of a difference when using comparable pieces than anything else under the sun. There is a reason a Nissan engine lasts for 200K+ Miles, and makes 120 hp. And there is a reason that same engine, when assembled to ITS Specification makes 208 hp, and lasts only slightly less... Attention to the small details. Same parts, just attention to every stinking little detail under the sun. Chamfer on the oil holes, deburring oil pump gears and drive spindles, polished bearing areas, etc.

 

Details are much more important in the end for longterm durability than which quality parts you use. Any of the quality manufacturers will have a good part, details and attention to them will determine total power output and longevity far more than the difference between Tier-1 Manufacturer "A" and Manufacturer "B".

 

And when that L20A lets go...well the L28 Shortblock is ready to go back together and we can go back to "F" class to bump our own records some more. But for now, we shall seeeeeee how long a stock rodded, stock cranked, stock blocked L20A will last twisting to 9000+ rpms.

 

I got to find a place to host the Helmet Cam Videos from last weekend....muahahahahaa!

[johnc]

What Tony and Paul said... Engine and engine part longevity have more to do with the care in assembly, break-in, usage, and maintenance then material type.

 

Any fool can break anything given enough time, money, and/or momentum.

[blueovalz]

Who was it who said:

 

Nothing is foolproof for a sufficiently talented fool.

[Careless]

Who was it who said:

 

Nothing is foolproof for a suffieciently talented fool.

 

 

That quote is SOOOOOO first day of last month.

[Careless]

I'm building my own RB30 N/A motor, and I'm going to just build it to the best of my ability, with a lot of research.

 

I know it's gonna cost me a bit, but I've never failed at anything I've worked hard at, and I'm sure you won't either if you're ready to realize the risks of your enjoyment!

 

Go Git'em!

 

Having said that, you don't need the best of the best if you're building it yourself, you're better off planning and prepping it before spending money on the best parts. I find no need to go with the top-quality company unless you're absolutely sure that you're gonna keep this thing for life.

 

Otherwise, other quality parts will survive or outlast your ownership of the car.

 

For example... I'll be getting SPOOL Rods for my RB30. They look the part, seem like they could make an atomic bomb quiver at the sight of it's size, but.... who the hell is spool?

 

I'm not going to spend 3000 canadian on a set of custom rods from Pauter because they dont make RB26 rods for less than 2500 anyways. That money there is enough for me to buy Pistons, Rings, Wrist Pins, Locks, and the Rods with the ARP2000 End Cap nuts.

 

And that will surely be able to handle the work i will put this engine through... so WHY spend 3000 on a set of rods if you're not gonna go balls out with the car itself.

 

I TOO have the "best of the best" syndrome for many things. but cars are expensive... keep it reasonable, and you'll be more happy with your outcome, rather than spending obscene amounts of money in certain places, which puts a stop to most of your other work that the money could go towards.

[jl87ma]

thanks for the replies guys these were the type of answers i was looking for from people that have more experience than i do. Thanks once again

[Careless]

thanks for the replies guys these were the type of answers i was looking for from people that have more experience than i do. Thanks once again

 

will you be building the engine yourself? that's my main question.

[jl87ma]

no i will be working at a machine shop and they will help me assmble the motor and do the machine work