proxlamus© Posted May 4, 2007 Share Posted May 4, 2007 Ok.. Im freakn out. LoL I purchased some Maxima brackets, and 280zx (1983) rotors (10.25") and some random calipers from a friend. They look to be Maxima calipers, but I need some help identifying them. I installed them like the following ... and had a soft pedal and some air in the system. In addition, the arm for the e-brake attachment hits the brake line bracket on the car! and bent it upward! SOO I figured.. maybe I will put the caliper marked LEFT which I had placed on the drivers side to the passenger side. This is fine, but now the arm looks like it will hit the sway bar! and the hose is ABOVE the bleed line, which doesnt seem right at all. Which way is the right way?! I'm going crazy! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
proxlamus© Posted May 4, 2007 Author Share Posted May 4, 2007 hmm.. I think I have a 200sx caliper Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ARiskyCvt Posted May 4, 2007 Share Posted May 4, 2007 your sety up is EVERY similar to mines. It was BI+ch To put on. I JUST finished mine no more than 5 days ago Well I did what you DID SWITCH THEM. I ha that very same issue with the brace going to hit the sway bar. but it doesnt. Mines clears pretty good. dont sweat it. after all whens you lower the car there will be a good about of gap. before i couldnt even fit a piece of paper in between. then when i lowered it its good. hope it helps Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zmanco Posted May 4, 2007 Share Posted May 4, 2007 If you put them on the wrong side the nipple won't be at the top to collect the air and bleeding is going to be really difficult FWIW, I used 240SX calipers and the ebrake bracket is very close to the antiroll bar but it does clear without hitting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blueovalz Posted May 4, 2007 Share Posted May 4, 2007 I don't like what I see. It appears you have the same side caliper on both sides of the car. Photos 3 and 4 show the bleed valve as at the bottom of the cylinder on one photo, and at the top on the next photo. No left/right on these (unless I'm seeing this wrong)! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
proxlamus© Posted May 4, 2007 Author Share Posted May 4, 2007 Ok I switched everything around, added the e-brake. now my pedal pressure is WORSE than it was before. I bought a mity-vac and have ran around all 4 corners of the car AGAIN. nothing. Does this look right to you guys now??! Drivers Side Passenger side Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zmanco Posted May 4, 2007 Share Posted May 4, 2007 Blueovalz makes a good point: http://img2.putfile.com/thumb/5/12316463315.jpg In this picture you can see that the nipple is not at the top. You're not going to get the air out that way. Sorry Ryan, I feel your pain... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zmanco Posted May 4, 2007 Share Posted May 4, 2007 Ok, we both posted at the same time. The nipples look to be at the top now. If the rear resevoir went dry while you were swapping the calipers, then you might try bleading both front and rear fittings on the M/C. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
proxlamus© Posted May 5, 2007 Author Share Posted May 5, 2007 yeh sorry about the confusion.. I took a pic of how the setup was, then decided to try swapping the "L" caliper to the right side of the car, where the nipple was ontop. So yes it was the same caliper, and 2 diff pics. The last post I made with 4 pictures (post #6) is accurate on how its setup right now. is that correct how its setup now?! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zmanco Posted May 5, 2007 Share Posted May 5, 2007 Yes, it looks like the nipples are on top now. Try bleeding the M/C if you've still got a soft pedal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted May 5, 2007 Share Posted May 5, 2007 Still think its the master... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
proxlamus© Posted May 5, 2007 Author Share Posted May 5, 2007 FIXED it!! I bled all four corners then the master. All four corners then the master All four corners then the master, then A BUBBLE came out of the Master front! there was a bubble stuck inline somewhere in the system and even after pumping and pumping and pumping the open M/C with a hose and seeing no air bubbles, going around all four corners several times and back to the master worked. How frustrating. Anyway... THANK YOU SO MUCH GUYS! its not perfect yet, but itll give me enough time to buy a proportioning valve and re-bleed the system. Having a Z as a daily driver SUCKS! especially if its your ONLY car! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blueovalz Posted May 5, 2007 Share Posted May 5, 2007 When I had a similar set-up, I found the balance to be very good without a proportioning valve. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2126 Posted May 8, 2007 Share Posted May 8, 2007 When I had a similar set-up, I found the balance to be very good without a proportioning valve. I'll second that comment!!! I've got this rear set-up on my 240, and on the front, 300ZX vented rotors (cut down) and 280ZX calipers, SS flex lines and good pads. All in all, they stop my 2300 lbs Z really well! Terry provided me great input during my installation, about six years ago....my, how time flies! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted May 8, 2007 Share Posted May 8, 2007 I'm still a bit confused as to why air would compress only when slowly pressurized by not when you stab the pedal. I'd keep an eye on that master... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zmanco Posted May 8, 2007 Share Posted May 8, 2007 I agree with Jon, I think there were 2 symptoms from 2 different root causes. Ryan, a simple test is to press on the brake pedal as hard as you can for 5-10 seconds. If the pedal goes down even the slightest bit, then you've got a problem with the M/C or a leak somewhere. I do this after bleeding to make sure I haven't left any of the nipples loose. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted May 8, 2007 Share Posted May 8, 2007 The test I usually use for a master is a steady light pressure. Pushing really hard makes the cups in the master press harder against the cylinder walls sealing them. A light pressure will show a faulty cup because the pressure itself isn't enough to seal the cup to the cylinder wall. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ron260z Posted February 3, 2008 Share Posted February 3, 2008 so did you have to modify the brackets, or were they direct bolt on? which bracket were you using the 44155-N3202 or the 44155-04S10? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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