74Adam Posted June 5, 2007 Share Posted June 5, 2007 Scott, how do you deal with not having the torsion bars for the hood? Are you just real careful when you have the hood open? not trying to be a smart ass, BTW thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daeron Posted June 5, 2007 Share Posted June 5, 2007 Scott, how do you deal with not having the torsion bars for the hood? Are you just real careful when you have the hood open? not trying to be a smart ass, BTW thanks there's a prop rod there, that works perfectly fine. I like having the springs there, but they are far from vital. Is your prop rod missing? not trying to be a smartass, btw Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZR8ED Posted June 5, 2007 Share Posted June 5, 2007 Rags. I am using Aluminum, and I'm pretty sure the guy said it was .025. I had asked for material that was about 24 gauge. Thin, bendable, easy to cut with my electric metal shears. (electric metal shears from Princess Auto. It looks like a standard electric drill, except with metal shears on the end.) BUY electric shears if you're going to mess with thin sheet metal and aluminum. It is like cutting paper, and far easier than hand cutters, and you can cut somewhat complicated shapes! I picked up the aluminum at Metal Supermarket. They are open to the public. The entire job cost me $22 for aluminum, and a few dollars for the poprivits and nuts/bolts, and $9 for the 3/8 black door molding to trim the panels to reduce any rattles, and to keep from scratching any paint. I can pull the whole thing out in about 10 min for access. 74Adam. I have had no issues with the torsion bars removed. I use the stock prop rod to hold the hood up. Thanks! Scott. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
74Adam Posted June 5, 2007 Share Posted June 5, 2007 Thanks. I guess I have some nightmare scenario in my head where I'm halfway in the engine bay and some clueless neighbor comes over and somehow dislodges the prop rod. I'm not usually that paranoid...........really. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
proxlamus© Posted June 5, 2007 Author Share Posted June 5, 2007 buy a light CF hood and ya wont worry about it hitting you.. LoL too light Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
74Adam Posted June 5, 2007 Share Posted June 5, 2007 true....true Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wigenOut-S30 Posted June 8, 2007 Share Posted June 8, 2007 Scott, that looks amaizing!! Can you take a couple of pics from the front looking into it? I have started working on mine, Dont know how far I am going to take it yet.. but I know I am starting off connecting the airdam to the Rad support. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240hoke Posted June 9, 2007 Share Posted June 9, 2007 Hey guys, lots of neat work going on in the front end. I'm working on mine too right now. I have even more crap im trying to get around though. However I thought i would through this out before people start buying sheetmetal.... You can take a flat piece of glass or sheetmetal and lay carbon fiber or fiberglass on it. Just wax the glass good and then apply the cloth and resin, let it dry and peel your carbon sheet off. Its easy to cut and work with, is light and strong. For connecting it you can get a piece of angle iron and make 90 degree corners and rivot or use sheetmetal screws to hold it all together. Ill post some pictures when i get done.. if i get done lol .... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240hoke Posted June 9, 2007 Share Posted June 9, 2007 Okay here is a picture of what im talking about: and here is the NIGHTMARE im working with: Im not exactly sure how to go about sealing everything up I can make an attempt at ducting but sealing will be an issue... i might end up just blocking some of the front end off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daeron Posted June 9, 2007 Share Posted June 9, 2007 You can take a flat piece of glass or sheetmetal and lay carbon fiber or fiberglass on it. Just wax the glass good and then apply the cloth and resin, let it dry and peel your carbon sheet off. Its easy to cut and work with, is light and strong. For connecting it you can get a piece of angle iron and make 90 degree corners and rivot or use sheetmetal screws to hold it all together. I was thinking about the same thing, but it was an idea rather than an experience. My dad has used a fiberglass kennel cage as "stock" for floorboard repairs before, and I've done a bit of rudimentary glasswork in my own day. I was actually halfway wondering if you could mock something up with cardboard, cover the cardboard with wax paper, and use that to lay down a primary layer of glass, and maybe if needed go back and add a sheet or two once you peel it off of the mold.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240hoke Posted June 9, 2007 Share Posted June 9, 2007 Yea that entirely possible, alot of people make quick molds out of cardboard, foam or whatever and cover it with clear packing tape and just lay the glass on top of that... works well. Its not show quality, it isnt smooth on the outside but it works. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dragonfly Posted June 10, 2007 Share Posted June 10, 2007 Hey guys, lots of neat work going on in the front end. I'm working on mine too right now. I have even more crap im trying to get around though. However I thought i would through this out before people start buying sheetmetal.... You can take a flat piece of glass or sheetmetal and lay carbon fiber or fiberglass on it. Just wax the glass good and then apply the cloth and resin, let it dry and peel your carbon sheet off. Its easy to cut and work with, is light and strong. For connecting it you can get a piece of angle iron and make 90 degree corners and rivot or use sheetmetal screws to hold it all together. Ill post some pictures when i get done.. if i get done lol .... I like that idea and I may give it a try. With everything you have in the front of yours its going to be tough but I think if you buy some aluminum tape you should be able to seal everything up and as long as you cover everything with metal or fiberglass etc. you don't have to worry about the tape showing. You could also tape everthing up from the engine side but then it would show. Just had an idea... having seen your skills and inginuity you could probably make a fiberglass facia to mount inside the engine compartment that would seal off everything but the radiator then use rubber moulding to seal around everything that has to penitrate the facia and to complete the seal around the radiator. Dragonfly Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZR8ED Posted June 12, 2007 Share Posted June 12, 2007 wigenOut-S30 I'm not too sure what you mean by front end shots? There is not much to see it is so hidden. The only really visible part is the lower sheet of aluminum that goes from the air dam to the top of the lower rad support. The sheet almost touches the rad. It actually passes under the i/c (less than an inch of clearance.) I left it like that so I can remove it with reasonable effort. I am still blending function/form and removability for servicing the car. I takes some thought on how to put it together, and to make sure I can assemble and dissasemble it. Anyhoo here are the requested shots. Let me know if ya need some more info. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doc Hawk Posted June 16, 2007 Share Posted June 16, 2007 240hoke, could you consider relocating your reservoir tank to the inside of the engine compartment instead of out front of the radiator? That would go one step towards de-complicating the airflow and sealing puzzle you have up there with your CAI and intercooler. - Doc Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
proxlamus© Posted June 17, 2007 Author Share Posted June 17, 2007 I took the car out to the track yesterday.. HUGE HUGE HUGE difference.. I used to be on the verge of overheating and probably around 200-220 degrees after a few laps. Yesterday I reached a maximum temperature of 170 degrees with my 160 degree thermostat. all WITHOUT a fan! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jhaag Posted June 19, 2007 Share Posted June 19, 2007 Ryan: I enjoyed looking at your car on Saturday. I couldn't stay long (I left about when the cars first went on the track) but it was cool to see it. Sorry I didn't get a chance to talk to you. John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hughdogz Posted August 11, 2007 Share Posted August 11, 2007 Almost finished with the lower pan on my 280ZX, but I still have to figure out how to finish up the sides and do a top now. I might have to make a cross bracket...it seems like that is how Scott did his. Pics are over in my project page: http://forums.hybridz.org/showpost.php?p=796319&postcount=3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
proxlamus© Posted August 12, 2007 Author Share Posted August 12, 2007 Hugh that looks amazing! Definatly beautiful workmanship! wow wow wow Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hughdogz Posted August 13, 2007 Share Posted August 13, 2007 Prox, hey thanks for the complement. It means a lot to me coming from one of you guys...and I probably couldn't (or wouldn't) have done it without Hybridz!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fhptom Posted December 6, 2007 Share Posted December 6, 2007 I have been watching to see what others are doing. It seems just as many are blocking off lower portion as compared to upper. Is it just owners choice? Or does one work better that other? I played with closing off bottom half. Just seemed to work better. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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