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After doing some reading.. I blocked off the upper grill *pics*


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Scott, how do you deal with not having the torsion bars for the hood? Are you just real careful when you have the hood open? not trying to be a smart ass, BTW :-)

 

thanks

 

there's a prop rod there, that works perfectly fine. I like having the springs there, but they are far from vital.

 

Is your prop rod missing? not trying to be a smartass, btw :coollook:

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Rags. I am using Aluminum, and I'm pretty sure the guy said it was .025. I had asked for material that was about 24 gauge. Thin, bendable, easy to cut with my electric metal shears. (electric metal shears from Princess Auto. It looks like a standard electric drill, except with metal shears on the end.) BUY electric shears if you're going to mess with thin sheet metal and aluminum. It is like cutting paper, and far easier than hand cutters, and you can cut somewhat complicated shapes!

 

I picked up the aluminum at Metal Supermarket. They are open to the public.

 

The entire job cost me $22 for aluminum, and a few dollars for the poprivits and nuts/bolts, and $9 for the 3/8 black door molding to trim the panels to reduce any rattles, and to keep from scratching any paint.

 

I can pull the whole thing out in about 10 min for access.

 

74Adam. I have had no issues with the torsion bars removed. I use the stock prop rod to hold the hood up.

 

Thanks!

Scott.

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Hey guys,

 

lots of neat work going on in the front end. I'm working on mine too right now. I have even more crap im trying to get around though.

 

However I thought i would through this out before people start buying sheetmetal....

 

You can take a flat piece of glass or sheetmetal and lay carbon fiber or fiberglass on it. Just wax the glass good and then apply the cloth and resin, let it dry and peel your carbon sheet off. Its easy to cut and work with, is light and strong. For connecting it you can get a piece of angle iron and make 90 degree corners and rivot or use sheetmetal screws to hold it all together.

 

Ill post some pictures when i get done.. if i get done lol ....

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You can take a flat piece of glass or sheetmetal and lay carbon fiber or fiberglass on it. Just wax the glass good and then apply the cloth and resin, let it dry and peel your carbon sheet off. Its easy to cut and work with, is light and strong. For connecting it you can get a piece of angle iron and make 90 degree corners and rivot or use sheetmetal screws to hold it all together.

 

 

I was thinking about the same thing, but it was an idea rather than an experience. My dad has used a fiberglass kennel cage as "stock" for floorboard repairs before, and I've done a bit of rudimentary glasswork in my own day. I was actually halfway wondering if you could mock something up with cardboard, cover the cardboard with wax paper, and use that to lay down a primary layer of glass, and maybe if needed go back and add a sheet or two once you peel it off of the mold..

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Hey guys,

 

lots of neat work going on in the front end. I'm working on mine too right now. I have even more crap im trying to get around though.

 

However I thought i would through this out before people start buying sheetmetal....

 

You can take a flat piece of glass or sheetmetal and lay carbon fiber or fiberglass on it. Just wax the glass good and then apply the cloth and resin, let it dry and peel your carbon sheet off. Its easy to cut and work with, is light and strong. For connecting it you can get a piece of angle iron and make 90 degree corners and rivot or use sheetmetal screws to hold it all together.

 

Ill post some pictures when i get done.. if i get done lol ....

 

I like that idea and I may give it a try. With everything you have in the front of yours its going to be tough but I think if you buy some aluminum tape you should be able to seal everything up and as long as you cover everything with metal or fiberglass etc. you don't have to worry about the tape showing. You could also tape everthing up from the engine side but then it would show. Just had an idea... having seen your skills and inginuity you could probably make a fiberglass facia to mount inside the engine compartment that would seal off everything but the radiator then use rubber moulding to seal around everything that has to penitrate the facia and to complete the seal around the radiator.

 

Dragonfly

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wigenOut-S30 I'm not too sure what you mean by front end shots? There is not much to see it is so hidden. The only really visible part is the lower sheet of aluminum that goes from the air dam to the top of the lower rad support. The sheet almost touches the rad. It actually passes under the i/c (less than an inch of clearance.) I left it like that so I can remove it with reasonable effort.

 

I am still blending function/form and removability for servicing the car. I takes some thought on how to put it together, and to make sure I can assemble and dissasemble it.

 

Anyhoo here are the requested shots. Let me know if ya need some more info.

 

DSC01921.jpg

 

DSC01918.jpg

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I took the car out to the track yesterday..

 

HUGE HUGE HUGE difference..

 

I used to be on the verge of overheating and probably around 200-220 degrees after a few laps.

 

Yesterday I reached a maximum temperature of 170 degrees with my 160 degree thermostat. all WITHOUT a fan!

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  • 1 month later...

Almost finished with the lower pan on my 280ZX, but I still have to figure out how to finish up the sides and do a top now. I might have to make a cross bracket...it seems like that is how Scott did his.

 

Pics are over in my project page: http://forums.hybridz.org/showpost.php?p=796319&postcount=3

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  • 3 months later...

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