lbhsbZ Posted May 28, 2007 Share Posted May 28, 2007 I finally got most of the bugs worked out and took a slow ride to the end of the block and back on Saturday. I buttoned up a few more things and took it down to the shop this morning and gave it a work out....until the Sheriffs showed up. I sweet talked them for a bit and let one of them drive it....they won't be giving me any more trouble. The car ran good, right off the trailer, I got it straight and put the pedal to the wood. It stepped out a bit, but snapped right back and hooked up. I was able to run it almost to the top of 3rd before getting on the brakes. The brakes suck. I have some vacuum issues that I need to figure out. The cheapo OBX diff (surprisingly) seamed to work very nicely, made the car very controllable, even coming out of a corner while mashing the pedal. I took a few corners pretty hard, and it stuck. The car is fast, but not as nutz as I expected. I was shifting at 6K, but it was still pulling...hard. I've got the rev limiter set at 6400 for now, but the motor should be able to do 7500rpm safely. Its running pig rich right now, as evident by the sides of the transmission (behind the header collectors) that are pitch black, covered in soot. I'll get the wideband A/F meter installed this week and get the jetting right, and it should pick up a few more ponies. The water temp went to 180 and stayed there, when I turned the fan on, it pulled it down to 165. I got the oil temp up to about 180, but it wouldn't get any hotter than that. The only problems that came up was an oil leak from my remote filter adapter, which was in questionable condition to begin with, and the battery went a little too dead and needed help from the charger to fire it up once. Of throttle, its got a pull to the right, but on throttle it goes straight as an arrow. I'll play with the alignment, but I kind of like it the way it is. None of my buddies showed up so I didn't get any video...but soon hopefully. I'm calling the project a success. I was very impressed. Gotta go see when the next track day is. Here's some pics of the (almost) finished car. The rear bumper has to go, and it needs a few more greasy handprints in the primer, but those things can wait. It was a rush to finally drive it. And I'm glad I can now take a much need break from it for a little while. Special thanks to: JohnC at BetaMotorsports Stuart at Technafit Tony at TG's machine shop --without whom I probably wouldn't be done yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SSflyer Posted May 29, 2007 Share Posted May 29, 2007 In my best Beavis voice.....'First drives are cool!' Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bodie Posted May 29, 2007 Share Posted May 29, 2007 it that an t56 you got behind that, and if so is you motor back as far as it can go? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bartman Posted May 29, 2007 Share Posted May 29, 2007 Congrat's on getting her going and getting your first drive in such a short time. First drives are great, and it sounds like your problems are pretty minor. Good job! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavyZ Posted May 29, 2007 Share Posted May 29, 2007 Sweet! A few bugs and tuning--voila!, you are THERE! Also, the aftermarket stang wheels look great on there. I have been working on a 5 lug conversion too. Did you get the 10.5"s in back? Great looking car too!! Man, when it gets painted, it'll be stunning!!! Davy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lbhsbZ Posted May 29, 2007 Author Share Posted May 29, 2007 I have the 10.5s in the back. They need a 2" spacer to clear the strut. I had the spacers made at WheelAdapter.com. I've also got a set of non-hubcentric spacers that I bought...if any one needs a set. The engine is in the scarab position. I put the car on the scales last night and front to rear is 50.1/49.9. Total weight full of fuel (22 gallons) without me in it was 2575lbs, which is about 275 more than I was hoping for...so I've got to find somemore weight to cut out. I'll run it around for the first couple events with the engine where it is, and if I feel like I need more rear weight, maybe I'll move it back a few inches. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lbhsbZ Posted May 29, 2007 Author Share Posted May 29, 2007 it that an t56 you got behind that, and if so is you motor back as far as it can go? No, I'm using the TKO 600 5spd, and the motor can go back another 3 inches, but static weight distribution is about 50/50 right now, so I'll leave it alone until I get some tracktime with it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bartman Posted May 29, 2007 Share Posted May 29, 2007 Your fender vents look great too. Are they functional? Mine aren't yet, but based on the windtunnel results I'm thinking of blocking off the extra space behind the front wheel openings and adding openings in the engine bay to make them functional. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lbhsbZ Posted May 29, 2007 Author Share Posted May 29, 2007 Functional??? They look kinda cool...and I think that was their intended function, so sure...they're functional. Aerodynamically, I have no idea if they do anything. The do go through to the wheel house, so they will probably contribute to reducing pressure if there is any, but I dunno. They were there when I bought it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavyZ Posted May 30, 2007 Share Posted May 30, 2007 I have the 10.5s in the back. They need a 2" spacer to clear the strut. Thanks for the info--now I know what they look like on there. Are they 17"s or 18"s?? It's too hard to tell from the photo, but they look great nonetheless. The engine is in the scarab position. I put the car on the scales last night and front to rear is 50.1/49.9. I'll run it around for the first couple events with the engine where it is, and if I feel like I need more rear weight, maybe I'll move it back a few inches. Hmmm, with that kind of distribution, I don't think you'll need to, but everyone's preference is different. Glad you took the scientific approach and found facts before making a decision that could cost you more time. Still it'll be interesting to find out what your driving thoughts are if you do decide to make the switch. Total weight full of fuel (22 gallons) without me in it was 2575lbs, which is about 275 more than I was hoping for...so I've got to find somemore weight to cut out. That's not out of the ordinary and quite frankly isn't so bad at all. Good luck cutting more weight out if you haven't already stripped it a good amount thus far. Remember that wheels & tires be heavy Davy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jt1 Posted May 30, 2007 Share Posted May 30, 2007 lbhsbz, congrats on getting the car running. It's always great to get a new motor or new project running for the first time, and get it out and buzz around some. Now you can start refining all the little things. It's interesting the car weighs out that close with the scarab mounting position. I would have guessed a little more front weight. Do you know any history on the front fenders? Based on the WTT, that's a nice design, with some lip in front of the wheel, smooth transition into the air dam, and a big vent behind the wheel to evacuate air. Are they full fiberglass or modded steel fenders? John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lbhsbZ Posted May 30, 2007 Author Share Posted May 30, 2007 Davy...they are 17s..315/35/17s in the back and 275/40/17s in the front. Jt1....the body mods are made entirely of bondo. The prick I bought it from apparently couldn't weld....so he just layered it on. It looks good, but I'd bet there is 50 lbs of bondo on the car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavyZ Posted May 31, 2007 Share Posted May 31, 2007 Davy...they are 17s..315/35/17s in the back and 275/40/17s in the front. Jt1....the body mods are made entirely of bondo. The prick I bought it from apparently couldn't weld....so he just layered it on. It looks good, but I'd bet there is 50 lbs of bondo on the car. Great! That's the exact size I'm looking for! You see, Sportmax makes wheels in that size that are the bomb (different style than the ones on the group buy). I really appreciate the info. 2" spacer, eh? Oh well, some things must be sacrificed Bummer about the bondo, but the body looks perfect despite the weight. If you are concerned to the point of obsessing about it, you can always make a 'glass mold of 'em and go from there. That way at least the bondo isn't there and FG weighs practically nothing. Heck, I'd leave it and get the motor to make an additional 10 hp... Again, thanks for the info. Davy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lbhsbZ Posted May 31, 2007 Author Share Posted May 31, 2007 Hey Davy, I've got a spare set of 2" spacers if you need some...$75, thats what I paid for them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavyZ Posted May 31, 2007 Share Posted May 31, 2007 Hey Davy, I've got a spare set of 2" spacers if you need some...$75, thats what I paid for them. Decent price, but two things I need to know first: 1) are you using coil-overs (narrower) or just "stock-width" springs? 2) Do the spacers work like an adapter with their own studs and nuts, or are they truly a "spacer" that requires really looong studs? (if so, what length?) I'm just getting clarification before giving you a definite, "Sure!" haha. Many thanks Davy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lbhsbZ Posted May 31, 2007 Author Share Posted May 31, 2007 The spacers have their own studs....so you don't need longer studs in the hub/stub axle. Oh, they are for 5 lug, not four lug. I'm using coil overs...theres no way in hell that the fronts or rears would fit with the stock spring perches. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted May 31, 2007 Share Posted May 31, 2007 Glad to see it on the road. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavyZ Posted May 31, 2007 Share Posted May 31, 2007 The spacers have their own studs....so you don't need longer studs in the hub/stub axle. Oh, they are for 5 lug, not four lug. I'm using coil overs...theres no way in hell that the fronts or rears would fit with the stock spring perches. Perfect. That's what I'll be doing too. I'll take 'em. I have to transfer some change to Paypal and I'll contact you with my info later. Gotta run to work right now!! Davy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jt1 Posted May 31, 2007 Share Posted May 31, 2007 The bondo guy has some talent. Somebody should set him up making molds and laying mat. Those are some nice looking fenders. John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikelly Posted May 31, 2007 Share Posted May 31, 2007 De-bug it and then report back to us... My guess is it'll get to that point you thought it should be at... Mine was a pig at first and then 10:98s in the 1320... Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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