WizardBlack Posted May 20, 2009 Share Posted May 20, 2009 I am taking the vinyl off of my door panels, grinding the rivets to remove the cardboard lower section from the upper metal section and cutting new aluminum panels for the same profile as the cardboard. Afterwards, the entire thing will be covered in alcantara. I will use a bit of silicone caulk to fill the bit of gap/transition from the aluminum to steel so you don't see it when it's covered. The only downside is that the door handle is recessed and will need to be relocated or remounted. I ordered a Lokar door cable kit for this. I have decided on what to do for the actual handle inside, yet. My car is partially stripped, caged, etc., so I want something small and light. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Domenic Posted July 15, 2009 Share Posted July 15, 2009 thanks for the info ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FricFrac Posted July 25, 2009 Share Posted July 25, 2009 Just to throw it in here, you can recolor any interior part. I got a new tan headliner from a pick and pull but my interior is black. i went to my interior guy and he told me to get SEM Color Coat Flexible Coating. I used Satin Black 15243 on my interior and it looks beautiful. Its a little expensive ($12 a can) but it does wonders I redid the entire interior of my '81 280ZXGL with the SEM stuff and it works great. I even used it on the leather seats and its pretty amazing stuff. Definately recomend it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
powershotnt Posted December 16, 2009 Share Posted December 16, 2009 The PO glued carpet on the doors and headliner. Looks really really crummy! I am going to go with padded vinyl with polished aluminum strips for accents. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FricFrac Posted December 16, 2009 Share Posted December 16, 2009 Just remember what the padded vinyl did on our cars. I'd go with regular vinyl if you plan on keeping it unless you need the padded vinyl for ah... padding ;P Also aluminum scratches pretty easily but stainless is a lot tougher (tougher to work with too though...) I had a set of door sills made out of stainless but even those I'm concerned about the abuse they'll take. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
powershotnt Posted December 17, 2009 Share Posted December 17, 2009 Just remember what the padded vinyl did on our cars. I'd go with regular vinyl if you plan on keeping it unless you need the padded vinyl for ah... padding ;P Also aluminum scratches pretty easily but stainless is a lot tougher (tougher to work with too though...) I had a set of door sills made out of stainless but even those I'm concerned about the abuse they'll take. This is what is so valuable about this forum. Either I have no idea on something and you guys give me the solution or I have an idea and someone tells me been there done that not adviseable. This is going to be mainly a show /parade car..I am so far away from even redoing the interior..its not funny. Got my bonuscheck in the mail yesterday..off to the body shop for rust repairs it goes!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
suparman Posted February 9, 2010 Share Posted February 9, 2010 I've use'd the Dupli-color vinyl paint and it works really well. I am currently redoing my interior in elk and deer leather. My 260 has the small quarter window trim like the 240 I actually had to use rubber cement on it it was the only glue that was strong enough for the way I did those. The deer leather I used has lots of stretch so I did not have to seam the piece and it look's really good, still holding up really well after a year. they have been in storage but they get moved allot so I think storage is harder on them than when they are installed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gtted Posted February 25, 2010 Share Posted February 25, 2010 I've use'd the Dupli-color vinyl paint and it works really well. I am currently redoing my interior in elk and deer leather. My 260 has the small quarter window trim like the 240 I actually had to use rubber cement on it it was the only glue that was strong enough for the way I did those. The deer leather I used has lots of stretch so I did not have to seam the piece and it look's really good, still holding up really well after a year. they have been in storage but they get moved allot so I think storage is harder on them than when they are installed. I'd love to see pictures of the elk and deer leather. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrismiller5157 Posted February 25, 2011 Share Posted February 25, 2011 I'm currently in the works of getting a real carbon fiber/dry carbon, interior door panel set made for my S30. Im probably leaning more towards the dry carbon image. These will be a flat skin door panel, and still have the arm rest, door handle, and manual window arm moldings. It's looking like there going to be around 800-1000 for the set, or more. I'm thinking of having a few sets (3-4) made to sell for those who are willing to have something unique and different. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DTMLGND Posted February 28, 2012 Share Posted February 28, 2012 I know this is an old thread, but I'm in the same boat, but also have to put all back in including console and heater control section. All interior was re-painted by PO. I have tan panels/dog legs and planning to just recover in nice fabric of choice. Only thing I don't have is a new headliner because the PO messed his new one up. I see the headliners are readily available. Just got her a few weeks back and in the process of making it "road worthy" for street use(Daily Driver) for my son. See pics here: https://picasaweb.google.com/106631344403711689097/Miles1973Datsun240Z Any help is greatly appreciated ! Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 tuff z Posted February 28, 2012 Share Posted February 28, 2012 Paul, mine are recovered in a very dark grey tweed. We used an SEM plastic prep to 'soften' the plastic then 3m adhesive to adhere the tweed. Care was taken to align the pattern to flow from panel to panel and we enlarged the 'rivet' holes to take into account the extra material for the hole. I also converted to a honda pull type fastener which are reuseable. Question about your z-I noticed your bumpers have no holes and the rear is a 1 piece. Did you get them that way or have them modified? I know this is an old thread, but I'm in the same boat, but also have to put all back in including console and heater control section. All interior was re-painted by PO. I have tan panels/dog legs and planning to just recover in nice fabric of choice. Only thing I don't have is a new headliner because the PO messed his new one up. I see the headliners are readily available. Just got her a few weeks back and in the process of making it "road worthy" for street use(Daily Driver) for my son. See pics here: https://picasaweb.go...s1973Datsun240Z Any help is greatly appreciated ! Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wickiewicked240z Posted February 29, 2012 Share Posted February 29, 2012 make sure the glue says HIGH TEMPERATURE adhesive. Cause the heat inside the car in the summer months will make the glue not sticky anymore n will not bond and separate. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Silverone858 Posted June 21, 2012 Share Posted June 21, 2012 This thread is extremely light on pictures I was really hoping to see some of those fiberglass door panels! Please post pics! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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