Jeremy82zx Posted June 4, 2007 Share Posted June 4, 2007 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/JDM-RB20DET-SWAP-S13-S14-S15-Nismo-240SX_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33615QQihZ007QQitemZ170116880591QQrdZ1 im considering this swap to get better power and gas mileage Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeremy82zx Posted June 4, 2007 Author Share Posted June 4, 2007 or this 1 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/JDM-RB20DET-R32-NISSAN-SKYLINE-210hp_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33615QQihZ019QQitemZ290122492264QQrdZ1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr.INSANE Posted June 4, 2007 Share Posted June 4, 2007 First One Looks So Although youll still need mounts and possibly driveshaft shortening Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete84 Posted June 4, 2007 Share Posted June 4, 2007 http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=121479 I am currently putting an RB20DET in my 75 280Z. This may not help you but I will let you know what issues I had to overcome.The driveshaft is splined and will fit into the transmission that comes with the RB20DET swap and the RB20DET mounts will line up with the existing mounts on the frame. What I noticed with my 280Z and maybe you won't have this problem with the 240z but ,if you use the RB20DET motor mounts, the RB20 will go in 2 inches forward and sit a little bit high. This will leave the drive shaft about half way out of the transmission and that isn’t good. Also, your shifter will be forward about 1 to 1.5 inches. You might be able to shift the car but if you have a center dash, you can kiss that good by. The L28 stick shift is bent in a way that will allow for the transmission to sit forward but that is not what is going back in. You will have to us the shifter from the RB20 and that one is not bent. Also, the engine sitting forward by a couple of inches leaves less room for piping the radiator and an intercooler along with making the MAF unit very tight. If you don't want AC in your car, you might be ok with fitting the MAF and filter. The stock radiator has the upper hose on the opposite side of where the RB20 hose connects. This means that you will have to run that hose across to the other side to connect it. Also, The z has one access hole on each side of the radiator support that you can run Intercooler piping to. Because the intake routs across the top of RB20 to the driver side, you will have to route yet another pipe back across the front of the engine to take advantage of the access hole on the passenger side. For a small amount of money compared to the headaches, get some motor mounts made and do not listen to anyone who says that it will just drop in. I also had a double pass radiator made with both hose outlets on the passenger side along with an electric fan and harness . This cleans up the piping a bit and gives you room to run piping for a FMI. Also this leave room for the MAF and filter without taking out the AC compressor. Another thing that I did was use the Throttle cable from an RB20DET and connect it to the old solid linkage on the firewall so that I would not have to screw around with the gas peddle inside. Depending on what your budget is, you can get an RB20DET in cheap but it will be clunky. Or you can spend around 1k and get some custom parts to make the headaches go away. All of my ideas came from this forum. There is a lot of great advice if you dig a little bit. I have about 1.5 inches between the engine and the firewall. Enough room to run the engine loom and AC line along with the Throttle cable.The drive shaft goes all the way in but you will have to cut of the thin round shaft cover on the RB trans. It looks like a thin metel cup over the end. Also, if you do use the RB, you can move the dip stick to the back of the engine for the rear sump pan. There is a knock out hole towards the back. Very hard to find so clean the motor in that area and you should find it. Once you knock it out. Pull the dip stick tub out of the front and swap it with the rear plug. Otherwise you will have the same problem I currently have. How to knock out the plug while the engine is in the bay. I did not have to cut the original trans mounts so if I should decide to put the L28 back in, no problem. The trans stick is dead center of the hole.Could not be any better. All from chrism. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeremy82zx Posted June 5, 2007 Author Share Posted June 5, 2007 Ok, so would it be easier to just turn the l28 thats in there into an l28et. Anyone know the cost to do that? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeremy82zx Posted June 5, 2007 Author Share Posted June 5, 2007 or could i get the stock l28 up to respectable numbers (250hp) for around 1000? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete84 Posted June 7, 2007 Share Posted June 7, 2007 You might want to go to the L engine specific forum to get answers to those questions. Another issue with RB engines in the US, parts Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clifton Posted June 7, 2007 Share Posted June 7, 2007 Search a little. A stock L28T will make 250 with a little more boost. An RB20, IIRC only makes 200 hp stock. You would be better of with an SR and save weight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeremy82zx Posted June 15, 2007 Author Share Posted June 15, 2007 Search a little. A stock L28T will make 250 with a little more boost. An RB20, IIRC only makes 200 hp stock. You would be better of with an SR and save weight. the sr is more expensive from what ive seen, how much weight would i save? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z_cars_rule Posted June 21, 2007 Share Posted June 21, 2007 Search a little. A stock L28T will make 250 with a little more boost. An RB20, IIRC only makes 200 hp stock. You would be better of with an SR and save weight. all i have is an RB20 running a lil more boost, and its running at 230ish rwhp (221rwhp on stock boost, now running 12 psi) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shadytrixta1 Posted August 14, 2007 Share Posted August 14, 2007 Stick with the L28, they're cheap and make awesome power. Besides do you really want a 2 liter L6? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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