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Short term to-do list (primarily to do tomorrow):


Get/install new injectors

Get a replacement clutch master cylinder

Flush out/fill up transmission

Clean a trees worth of leaves out of the car's interior and exterior

Get the e-brake hooked up

Find the right size nut for my fuel pump electrical connectors

Bolt exhaust together 100%

Clean brake rotors


Pray to God that she'll come back to life...

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I'm 19, 20 in September. Yeah, we can be those old guys who'll do anything to a buddy's car for a case of beer. I got in over my head with projects, but I'm making due now. It'll never stop. But thats a good thing.


I've got my:

1978 280Z

1991 Toyota 4Runner

2004 Honda Hornet (599, its a motorcycle)



Let's hope I get something done today.

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Hey Eric, I'm about to join the exotic V8 club with you! Porsche 4.5L turbo for me. I would definitely like to keep up with your progress.


I notice your sig says CNC parts guru.... We may need to talk about a transmission adapter soon :mrgreen:




Hit a small snag today. Ran out of 5/16th's fuel line. Gotta get some tomorrow.


I got new injectors as well. Found a full set on eBay for 130. The guy was local so I went and picked 'em up. These must've been old warehouse parts because they look brand new. Still in their original plastic wrapping and all.


I rewired the fuel pump and got the right size nuts. It pumps like a champ now. Also got the transmission filled up with 20w50 to do a quick flush before putting in my $12/quart Redline MTL. The leaves are *mostly* gone from the engine bay area, though there are still a bunch more in places that the air compressor can't get. The exhaust is also back together all the way.


All that crap leaves me with:

Hook up the e-brake

Get new clutch master cylinder

Clean the brake rotors





Pray to God she'll come back to life...

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She still won't start.... I have good fuel pressure (judging by how it REALLY flows from the hose) and I already shocked the ♥♥♥♥ out of myself once, so it has spark. Several questions...


What exactly is required for the L28 to start (electronics wise)? I have the AFM, injectors, spark, fuel pressure (though its hooked up via a switch).


I'm missing several relays from the box near the battery, but she cranked over before and *sort of* ran (a year ago) ... Am I missing something? My clutch master cylinder is out, so I can't hold the clutch while I crank it. I leave it in neutral, but does the neutral/reverse light switch keep the engine from starting (it still cranks over...)?


Perhaps I need to continue cranking it? Maybe there's still air in the fuel rail?



Honestly, I'm stumped. The coil, distributor and spark plug wires are brand new. The fuel rail isn't blocked at all. The injectors are brand new. The AFM looks to be in good condition.


What relays and electronics are necessary to get the engine to start?

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Getting closer I think... I changed the timing 180 degrees (from 1 at the 3 o'clock position to 1 at the 9 o'clock position from the drivers side of the car). Probably not remotely correct for setting it up, but it actually wants to fire up now... She seems to be starving for fuel before cranking up. It might be my cold start injector OR air in the line still...?

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I must be having some sort of issue with fuel control now. A slight squirt of starter fluid can get this thing running for a few seconds. While cranking, I can hear the injectors clicking, but I guess they aren't flowing any fuel. The cold start injector clicks when it gets 12V.

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  • 8 months later...
  • 2 months later...

Those two posts and I know it sounds stupid but make sure your fuel send and return aren't reversed...lol...that will definitely do it! It's happened to me more than once on multiple cars...you go through and troubleshoot everything and start hittin your head and then you finally realize the the fuel send is on the FPR, DOH!


Once you do get it running you might have to "tweak" the spring tension on the AFM...these cars were set up to run ultra lean.....and as an engine gets older and worn out they need a richer mixture to run right. This only applies once it's running because the trick I'm telling you will basically adjust idle mixture. If you're careful you can pry the plastic cover off the AFM. Inside you will see the counterweight for the flapper, and a toothed wheel that houses the clockspring. The spring tension is held with a setscrew and pawl. Start the engine, and then Loosen the setscrew while holding the wheel...you don't want to let it unwind Slowly decrease the tension on the clockspring (you will probably advance it about 3 teeth if you car is like mine was) until the idle smooths out. (you are basically fooling the ECU into thinking the engine is ingesting more air than it is...) Tighten the setscrew and replace the plastic cover (you will have to put a dab of gasket glue in place so it doesn't fall off)....

Edited by twoeightythreez
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