Nismo280zEd Posted December 18, 2007 Share Posted December 18, 2007 so school completley at my lunch since august.... got some free time trying to get all these MS projects on the road again. I'm soldering mine right now to do VR instead of the HEI i was running... in the MSnSE insturctions it says TSEL-VROUT or VROUTINV for inverted... i thought I remember something about we were supposed to use inverted on the Z dist but searching I can't come up with anything. So i'm going to solder to VROUT but if i could get some confirmation later that would be great too. -Ed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nismo280zEd Posted December 19, 2007 Share Posted December 19, 2007 So i'm in the process of finishing this up but it's been a while and I want to make sure I have it right. Before I was triggering off the coil (fuel only) then I went to HEI 8pin (couldn't get it working properly) now I"m going with the vb921 driver and using the VR sensor as the trigger. I'm curious if I should have C30, C12 installed as I have a jumper for C30 and C12 said only install if triggering off the neg of the coil... so do i no longer need it? I also have jumpers for D1 and D2 looks like those are used only for triggering off neg of coild as well... so leave the jumpers or remove them all together? Sorry for all the questions guys. Just to clarify... 3.0 board with MS1 MSnSE wanting to use the vb921 to control ignition w/ a vr sensor. -Ed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
X64v Posted December 19, 2007 Share Posted December 19, 2007 I have C30 and C12 installed, as well as D1 and a 22V Zener diode backwards in D2. These are from when I was running fuel only, before I switched to spark control via the VR dizzy. It seems like setting up the jumpers for the VR circuit bypasses these altogether, but if you really want to play it safe, I have mine set up as stated, and the car's been running fine. Also, I don't remember for sure, but IIRC VROUT is correct, VROUTINV is not. EDIT: Looking at the vr wave diagrams at msextra.com, it looks like it doesn't matter whether you use regular or inverted, and it also doesn't matter how you wire up the red and green wires coming out of the dizzy, though it may change your trigger angle quite a bit to change between them. The only time it would matter is if you were using a ford vr sensor to use a 36-1 wheel, where it needs to skip a count where the missing tooth passes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naviathan Posted December 19, 2007 Author Share Posted December 19, 2007 Nismo280zED - When setting up for the VR dizzy you use VROUT not inverted. The inverted you're thinking of is in the software setup from MegaTune. Use the red wire for the trigger and the green wire for the ground. It will make a difference. It seems if they are switched your trigger will be off and you'll get a jumpy timing signal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
X64v Posted December 19, 2007 Share Posted December 19, 2007 Nismo280zED - When setting up for the VR dizzy you use VROUT not inverted. The inverted you're thinking of is in the software setup from MegaTune. Use the red wire for the trigger and the green wire for the ground. It will make a difference. It seems if they are switched your trigger will be off and you'll get a jumpy timing signal. For the record, that's exactly how I have mine set up, as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Careless Posted December 19, 2007 Share Posted December 19, 2007 the proto area would allow you to set up dip switches the same way I did with a friends MSv3 build. You can then switch the signal if infact, you find that it's the improper setup =) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nismo280zEd Posted December 20, 2007 Share Posted December 20, 2007 Awesome guys, thanks for the infor... ready to try and tune in the VR signal now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nismo280zEd Posted January 10, 2008 Share Posted January 10, 2008 Well no dice guys. I've got some gremlins somewhere. Above mods are done to my board. Red wire from dizzy connected to pin 24 (IGN) on the wired loom Green wire grounded with other MS grounds Pin 36 (brown wire from loom) to coil neg Confirmed coil is getting power while cranking Confirmed the VR is giving a good signal from the red wire (oscilliscope) While cranking MS shows no rpm jumps Ever trigger angle from 0-90 has been tried along with the +22.5 and +45 additions. No spark.... at all.... ever. running 024s13 code holding ign at 2 like MS manual recomends. Both tunning pots full counterclockwise like recomended. I don't know, Next semester starts Monday and I was really trying to get the motor running before then so it didn't sit for another 6 months. Any ideas on things to check and try i'm all ears. -Ed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
X64v Posted January 11, 2008 Share Posted January 11, 2008 Okay, you have a nice clean RPM signal into Megasquirt. You can now ignore the trigger input segment (other than trigger angle) and concentrate on the spark output circuitry. For starters, you have done this mod, yes? http://www.msextra.com/manuals/MS_Extra_Ignition_Hardware_Manual.htm#singlecoil Secondly, in Megatune, File -> Codebase and output functions. Make sure LED17(D14)function is set to 'Spark Output A' Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nismo280zEd Posted January 11, 2008 Share Posted January 11, 2008 Okay, you have a nice clean RPM signal into Megasquirt. You can now ignore the trigger input segment (other than trigger angle) and concentrate on the spark output circuitry. For starters, you have done this mod, yes? http://www.msextra.com/manuals/MS_Extra_Ignition_Hardware_Manual.htm#singlecoil Secondly, in Megatune, File -> Codebase and output functions. Make sure LED17(D14)function is set to 'Spark Output A' done all that except I don't have spark inverted. Gonna check the signal on the dizzy again next time i'm workn' on it, that's the only thing I can think of. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
X64v Posted January 11, 2008 Share Posted January 11, 2008 My spark output is set to inverted, that's how it runs. I believe that means it pulls low (ground) instead of pulling high (+5v or +12v). Whatever it means, that's how my car runs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naviathan Posted January 11, 2008 Author Share Posted January 11, 2008 The only thing that concerns me here is you said that you have the green wire connected to the rest of the MS grounds? The green wire should be connected to the shielding around the ignition wire (Pin 24). I don't know what kind of difference this makes, but my car runs wired that way. The center copper core connects to the red wire, make sure to heat shrink wrap it to keep it from crossing connections with the braided shield. Then twist the braided shielding up and connect it to the green wire. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nismo280zEd Posted January 11, 2008 Share Posted January 11, 2008 ok i'll try that. It just said pin 7 on my diagramn and pin 7 was a ground so i figured any ground. I'll try the shielding. Makes sense. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Cramer Posted January 14, 2008 Share Posted January 14, 2008 FYI - the shielding on the ignition wire is a third ground wire. Either one ought to work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nismo280zEd Posted January 22, 2008 Share Posted January 22, 2008 Well i'm positive the problem lies in the pickup coil in the dizzy. I have it wires as stated, grounded as stated, even installed a pull up resistor to get a better signal. I took the dizzy out of it's hole just now and spun the bottom and nothing, no rpm jumps on Megatune and no blinking or flashing led on the box. This is really starting to irk me. More investing. -Ed EDIT 1hr later.... so i'm checking everthing. I decide to try a different dist. SAME PICKUP COIL put it in the diff dizzy. hook it up... spin it with my hand... registering like 50 rpm on the megatune finally! I hear some clicking then all of a sudden it goes dead. No more signal. I disconnect the battery ground and re conect it and try it again, now it says rpm when it loads up then goes to zero no matter how i adjust the pickup coil and how fast or slow I spin it. So i'm assuming my pickup took a dump on me yet again. This would make number three. I guess I'll go buy a new one this time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikeatrpi Posted September 21, 2008 Share Posted September 21, 2008 Forgive the bump of an old thread, this information is very useful! I concentrated my efforts on the #8 assembly (referring to the diagram posted on page #1). I removed the vacuum advance, and put the screw back in. Then I placed a tack weld from the underside to lock the screw. I did not weld the top screw. At least not yet. Once I get this into the car, I'll evaluate that. I might just run the threads through some jb-weld... better than loc-tite! I also didn't remove any parts permanently. When re-assembling the distributor, the slots on #9 have to align with the pins on #11, correct? The diagram leads you to believe that #9 fits perpendicular to those pins. I ran it on megatune with an electric drill... got the RPMs up to about 2000. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
letitsnow Posted September 26, 2008 Share Posted September 26, 2008 How do you plan on keeping the plate that the vacuum advance was connected to from moving? I was just going to leave the vac pot attached so that it would keep it still. I plan on switching to EDIS soon, so this would be temporary. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikeatrpi Posted September 27, 2008 Share Posted September 27, 2008 That screw is the one that connects to the vacuum advance. It threads into to the top plate, goes through the vacuum advance actuator (which I removed) and fits into the slot on the bottom plate. By welding the screw to the lower plate I locked the advance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
letitsnow Posted September 27, 2008 Share Posted September 27, 2008 That makes sense, thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flexicoker Posted October 3, 2008 Share Posted October 3, 2008 I was getting a really intermittent signal in megatune at first, all I did was clean the contacts on the rotor and cap, and it started working. weirdest thing ever, should have nothing to do with the VR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.