MoNkEyT88 Posted August 17, 2007 Author Share Posted August 17, 2007 Got it back from the blasters. They missed quite a lot of areas . Some places are so bad, I won't even post a picture. When did 250$ buy you good service? This would be a problem, but when we finish all the body work, and replacing rust, we will have it blasted again.. somewhere else.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted August 17, 2007 Share Posted August 17, 2007 FYI... I've had a number of 240Zs blasted for customers and the typical cost using two different media is $800 to $1,000. That gets you a completely clean car with no panel warping or surface changes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Netrix Posted August 18, 2007 Share Posted August 18, 2007 I'd either take it back and have them fix it or take pictures show them and have them do it later for free knowing they missed them the first time. In Michigan we blast cars for $15 an hour using Black Magnum, which turns out great. I'm not sure if it has to do with our larger rust production vs California and more sandblasting shops + competition, but $800-$1000 seems like alot of money for just compressed air and media, which is only like $15 for a 25lbs bag and can be reused a few times (advantages of using Black Magnum). What type of media are you talking about? I could show you pics of a 1971 Dodge Challenger finished that was blasted with Black Magnum. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted August 18, 2007 Share Posted August 18, 2007 You can't get anything done in California for $15 per hour. Folks at McDonalds make over $8 an hour. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MoNkEyT88 Posted August 20, 2007 Author Share Posted August 20, 2007 Well, doing some body work, cutting out some spots to be patched. Ordered some parts from TABCO. Ordered some sheet metal for the floor pans. I'm also looking at getting the JEGSTER 10 point roll cage. Its not a bad price for 250$, the shipping comes to over 100$ though, which sucks. But not bad for preformed pieces. I bought a cheap CLARKE 130EN welder, and it's just that. Boy.. frustrating. I guess I'm comparing them to the MILLER machines that I use at work, which ARE NOT 300$.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MoNkEyT88 Posted August 22, 2007 Author Share Posted August 22, 2007 Need to go to the store to get the lead filler. Also on the list of things to do. -Sheet metal - fix the rest of body work, replace floor pans. Build fuel cell location. -2.5" square tubing for frame rails. -3x1" tubing to run from frame rails to rear sub frame. - Purchase and install Jegster 10 point roll cage. - Recently purchased brake line (o boy) - Recently purchased TABCO body panels for the bad spots. Waiting. I also want to modify the stock suspension for coil overs. I know there are some threads about this, I just need to find the one. I want to cut down the tubes, and weld on a perch. Any DIY thread on this? I'll try to do a step by step for the roll cage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garvice Posted August 23, 2007 Share Posted August 23, 2007 A guide for Arizona Z Car ones can be found here http://www.arizonazcar.com/coil.html and a thread http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=117917 Btw, looking good, and quick. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MoNkEyT88 Posted August 24, 2007 Author Share Posted August 24, 2007 Created a graph on production. Hopefully there will be more blue in the future. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tomr240zap Posted August 27, 2007 Share Posted August 27, 2007 "his z"damn this board is getting full of wisconsin people! where are you getting it blasted again? ~Andrew I didn't know there were this many S30's left in the state. (wausau, wi) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MoNkEyT88 Posted August 28, 2007 Author Share Posted August 28, 2007 I have the steel needed for the frame rails and the sheet metal for the floor pans. I'm using 2.5" 14 gauge square tubing for the frame rails, and 3x1" 16 gauge rectangular tubing for under the floor pans, and to connect the front frame to the rear sub frame. This will also all be tied together with the JEGSTER 12 point roll cage. MY QUESTION IS.. Do you guys think if I do one floor and the rail under the floor pan at one time WHILE IT IS ON THE TRUNNION that the body will not flex too much? It is mounted to the bumper shocks BTW. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MoNkEyT88 Posted August 28, 2007 Author Share Posted August 28, 2007 what do you think? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MoNkEyT88 Posted August 28, 2007 Author Share Posted August 28, 2007 Anywayz.. Didn't really flex at all, I left the cross member piece in for now. Have a bit more to cut out and clean up. Here is the material that will be welded in place. If anyone needs some 2.5" 14ga square tubing I have extra. Yay.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MoNkEyT88 Posted August 29, 2007 Author Share Posted August 29, 2007 I figured since I had some sheet metal laying around.. Hey, I can use this to make a carbon fiber panel. Metal will resist sticking to the resin. No need for a release agent, such as a wax, but it couldn't hurt. First I cutout the materials needed, and tape off a section of the metal to clean it. I cut the materials roughly 15x16". Carbon fiber is expensive, use masking tape on the areas to be cut, so that they don't fray. I am using 2 layers of carbon fiber, and 1 layer of heavy fiberglass for a filler. I am going to be using 2 layers of peel ply, the carbon fiber will take the finish of the peel ply, which is a matte finish. If you use glass, it will be smooth like glass. The peel ply finish will also allow a great bonding surface later on, as I am going to make a diffuser. You will also need a layer of breather material, this allows the extra resin to be soaked up, and allows a path for the air to be sucked out. I am not doing a vacuum infusion, so I lay the materials on one layer at a time and wet them out. After all the layers are wet, I lay the bagging material over and stick it down. I tried to use electrical tape with no avail as the tape for bagging is expensive. I had to use it anyway, too many leaks. A good leak free bag is what you need to have, as you will need to pull ~30in.hg. Leave the vacuum on until the resin is finished hardening. This could be all day.. so I made some pizzas from scratch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
S15 200sx owner Posted August 29, 2007 Share Posted August 29, 2007 Yum! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garvice Posted August 30, 2007 Share Posted August 30, 2007 HA, I noticed that your last two posts both say posted 1 day ago. In between the time of the posts you had cut half of your floor out. So how long did you actually wait for people to respond, 5 minutes. LOL. I guess since you've been waiting a while for the metal it would be hard to wait any longer. P.S. Thanks for the write up on the fibre, wouldn't mind seeing more howtos on this. Keep up the good work Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MoNkEyT88 Posted August 30, 2007 Author Share Posted August 30, 2007 Yes, I figured, if something was going to happen when I cut them out, then I'd be in a pickle. But, it's just so much fun. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m4xwellmurd3r Posted August 30, 2007 Share Posted August 30, 2007 lol you started cutting before I could give my 2c, but oh well. I would've done something like put a X section inside the car just above the floor, and tack it in place, so when you take out the strength of the floor, the X section you tac in makes up for it. I learned about doing that for VW's when you replace the heater channel, which is the entire support for the lower part of the body. So, what are ya gonna use the carbon fiber for? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MoNkEyT88 Posted August 30, 2007 Author Share Posted August 30, 2007 Well, I'm going to be making carbon fiber interior panels when we get that far. I did this piece as a test to see if the peel ply on both sides would turn out how I thought it would. Here are some other things I've made. The panel is for a friends gauge panel. The other things are for my R1, it's a clutch actuator protector. those were vacuum infused. Heres a carbon fiber tank cover I have, I didn't make this one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daeron Posted September 2, 2007 Share Posted September 2, 2007 Try sifting your flour a bit more, and using hotter water when you make your pizza dough... To get the crust nice and round, the best way is to take the ball of dough in your hands, stretch it sideways a bit, and roll either side forwards, folding the sides into the middle; then rotate the dough ball 90 degrees like a steering wheel, and repeat, then roll it 90 degrees like a turntable, then repeat the entire process several times. Then you flatten the ball, and slap it back and forth between your fingertips gently; its easiest to practice this motion with a rag, and the dough is MUCH more forgiving in this state if it is good and cold. HybridPieZ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
S15 200sx owner Posted September 3, 2007 Share Posted September 3, 2007 Then you flatten the ball, and slap it back and forth between your fingertips gently; its easiest to practice this motion with a rag HybridPieZ! Hell i laughed when i read this bit!! Maybe i'm just sick! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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