Guest hrdwoodpro Posted August 6, 2007 Share Posted August 6, 2007 Hey guys just a quick question please correct me if im in the wrong section. And grumpyvette please bear with me I am not trying to go about this the hard way but I am trying to learn how to do swaps on any vehicle while doing this one. By the way I live in Tallahassee Grumpy. But i am down in your neck of the woods often and maybe i can stop in and check out your wheels one day. I am installing a sbc into a z32. I have come pretty far but I am still left with questions before I cut and weld my mounts. I have done a lot of homework on pinion angles. I am prepared to do whatever it takes to get this step right. Call me too picky but I measure to the 64th if that tells you anything about my personality. I want to get accurate measurements of the angle the engine is sitting at and the driveline. I am aiming for three degrees on the motor three degrees down on the tranny out and three degrees up at the diff input. What tool will make taking these measurements possible accurately without having to step onto the snap-on truck and dropping my bank account on one tool. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sweetleaf Posted August 6, 2007 Share Posted August 6, 2007 Search for the homemade laser alignment tool.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted August 6, 2007 Share Posted August 6, 2007 64'th? What system is that? I guess is slightly better than .5mm which is 'eyeball close' on my tapes...LOL I agree, jig the car up level, and use a laser level. They take a lot of the guesswork out of where stuff is really going. Even if it's not level, if it has the 'level reset' feature it's as easy as setting the angle on the tranny output flange, and then sticking it on the differential flange and reading the angular misalignment...you can go to a 1/10th of a degree on most of the digital levels. It will take you longer to read this post than it will to actually do the procedure. Now that I think about it, you probably don't have the diffy moveable, so you would do it in reverse...measure the pinion angle, and then match the engine/trans angle to what you have in the back. I use one that was given to me at work for machinery alignment checks. It changed a procedure that formerly used machined bars and depth micrometers from a 2 hour procedure to one that takes less than 2 minutes. Most of that was simply set up of indicators! Good Luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pop N Wood Posted August 6, 2007 Share Posted August 6, 2007 http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=109413 http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=124050 You also have a good deal of flexibility in adjusting the diff angle. Search on Ron Tyler diff mount. Also know you can drill out the washers on the mustache bar to further tweak the diff angle. When I set my motor to match the stock diff angle it required a good bit of tilt in the engine/trans. This put the back of the trans way too low and/or the intake into the hood. Leveling the rear diff let me level the engine giving it a much better placement in the bay. Also keep in mind the trans/diff mounts will flex under torque. You can measure things to a nat's ass but who know what it will end up being under power. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blueovalz Posted August 6, 2007 Share Posted August 6, 2007 I always measure with a mic, mark it with chaulk, and cut it with an ax. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lbhsbZ Posted August 7, 2007 Share Posted August 7, 2007 I'd put the motor in a spot where its close, but without the oil pan. Get a long piece of 1x1 angle aluminum and drill a couple holes in it to match up with a couple of the oil pan bolts. Use a long enough piece of angle to make it all the way back to the diff. then get another piece of angle, cut about a 3 inch long piece and using 2 bolts (or welding) bolt it to another long piece of angle to make a TEE. Clamp the short piece to the pinion flange, and the long piece should stick out at a right angle to the pinion flange. Then, adjust your mounts so that the 2 long pieces of angle are parallel in both the vertical and horizontal planes. I'm a visual learner, and don't do too good measuring stuff like this, so this would be my plan of attack if I wanted everything perfect. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest hrdwoodpro Posted August 7, 2007 Share Posted August 7, 2007 Just an upat for you guys if you like to see where things go after you respond. The day after I posted this question I called a buddy and borrowed an angle protractor from him. I was using the type of protractor you use in school and a straight edge LOL. Dare I say my tools are lacking. I set everything up off of the diff angle which is 3.5 degrees. The night I posted this I had everything aligned using me cute little protractor and straaight edge setup. I came back in with the magnetic protractor and I was dead on 3.5 degrees on the motor 3.5 down on the driveshaft and 3.5 up at the diff. I didnt get to the computer before I did this and I wish I had. Mounts are in welded and ready to go. The laser idea seems much more accurate maybe ill check things. thanks again guys. Until the next frustrating task .....SEE YA Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pop N Wood Posted August 8, 2007 Share Posted August 8, 2007 Up-down is only half the story. You also need to get it in line side to side. I am not sure how you would do that with an angle guage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest hrdwoodpro Posted August 9, 2007 Share Posted August 9, 2007 I will be working on the laser tool tomorrow and will be checking everything that i did witht he laser. Ill report back when i get it done thanks again for all your help so far guys Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpyvette Posted August 18, 2007 Share Posted August 18, 2007 one little trick Ive used is to mock up motor mounts with plexi-glass and glue, too check angles. and clearances , simply because its cheap, and you can cut, grind and drill it very easily and see thru it to mark bolt holes ETC. once youve got the model correct you duplicate it in 1/4" steel. anouther advantage is if your not skilled at welding you can hand the plex-glass model over at your local machine shop and just say "duplicate this in steel please" BTW http://www.drivetrain.com/driveline_angle_problem.html http://www.tdperformance.com/TransDapt.html http://www2.dana.com/expert/wc.dll?DSD~dedsec~2~13~06~ http://www.drivewerks.com/tech/physic_of_racing.htm http://www.advanceadapters.com/ http://www.engineswaps.com/ http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/CTGY/PRC01 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
v8dats Posted August 19, 2007 Share Posted August 19, 2007 one little trick Ive used is to mock up motor mounts with plexi-glass and glue, too check angles. and clearances , simply because its cheap, and you can cut, grind and drill it very easily and see thru it to mark bolt holes ETC.once youve got the model correct you duplicate it in 1/4" steel. anouther advantage is if your not skilled at welding you can hand the plex-glass model over at your local machine shop and just say "duplicate this in steel please" thanks for the tip! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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