blueovalz Posted August 16, 2007 Share Posted August 16, 2007 I finally got the passenger side only header fabricated. I had to change my planned 4-into-1 arrangement to a 4-to-2-to-1 (Tri-Y basically) due to the large road pan which has a large kickout, the larger motor, and the low ride height. With all that said, this arrangement put the squeeze on my options. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted August 16, 2007 Share Posted August 16, 2007 Nice work Terry! I always wondered how you weld in between the tubes at the collector. Want to share your secret? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OlderThanMe Posted August 16, 2007 Share Posted August 16, 2007 Beautiful. I love the way you have built your car with so many "budget" parts but is THE most beautiful widebody Z EVER! Wonderful fabrication! You have been a big inspiration to me and the other kids on here! Big Thanks!! (I'd also like to know how you weld inside the tubes on the collector...from the inside before the outer collector and then just the outer part? ) Dan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blueovalz Posted August 16, 2007 Author Share Posted August 16, 2007 The tubes are welded together at the ends of the tubes prior to the "weld on" collectors being positioned. This then seals this area which would not be easily accessible for welding after the collector is fitted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rudypoochris Posted August 18, 2007 Share Posted August 18, 2007 Wow, nice. Is that wood there to simulate a frame rail? Is the engine really THAT low? Did you go dry sump or something? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blueovalz Posted August 19, 2007 Author Share Posted August 19, 2007 good observation. Yes, the wood simulates the frame rail so that I can weld up the headers and know that they will fit the chassis. The engine has the same ground clearnance that the previous engine has, but it is a "wet" system. It provides a 4" ground clearance on the oil pan, BUT, the sump of the pan is just behind the axle. This position allows the sump to move pretty much as the wheels do, which makes speed bumps a non-issue. I had thought about a rear sump, but the sump would drag more often because the sump is far enough behind the axle that the sump would be on top of the speed bumpsonce the front wheels had cleared the bump. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sven Posted August 19, 2007 Share Posted August 19, 2007 Nice work for an amateur, but you don't really count as one of those anyway... So what size primary are those? Did you shoot for a specific length, or was packaging the main concern? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rudypoochris Posted August 19, 2007 Share Posted August 19, 2007 Did you beat the fire wall any? Are you using a Fox pan? I'm guessing complete custom mounting? I think I would drop the V8 alot more, I just didn't since it is already below the frame rails (talking about where the driver/pass sit). How far below those rails does yours sit? I am wishing I spent the money and went dry sump, that engine could sit so much lower (like yours). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blueovalz Posted August 20, 2007 Author Share Posted August 20, 2007 Did you beat the fire wall any? Are you using a Fox pan? I'm guessing complete custom mounting? I think I would drop the V8 alot more, I just didn't since it is already below the frame rails (talking about where the driver/pass sit). How far below those rails does yours sit? I am wishing I spent the money and went dry sump, that engine could sit so much lower (like yours). No beating of the firewall, and yes, the engine is custom mounted (front and rear engine plates bolted to the crossmember/frame rails. The bottom of the pan is about 7" below the bottom of the frame rail, which is a about 1" more than I am comfortable with, so I may lift it up a tad. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blueovalz Posted August 31, 2007 Author Share Posted August 31, 2007 Finally finished the driver-side header. The 383 can now be placed into car (if the headers clear everything surrounding the motor) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rudypoochris Posted August 31, 2007 Share Posted August 31, 2007 Fantastic! Even with out moving the steering shaft. Very nice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blueovalz Posted August 31, 2007 Author Share Posted August 31, 2007 Yeah, my goal was to have a semi-decent design as far as flow, performance (focus was torque), clearance around the steering rod, T/C bushing and box, wide oil pan, and frame rails. Add to that being able to install these from above above was the next priority, and fortunately, I managed that as well. The current set-up has the headers within a couple of thousanths of the steering rod, which must be removed for installation. On the new ones, the steering rod stays in place and the headers go in without removing the rod. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LMoore56 Posted August 31, 2007 Share Posted August 31, 2007 Now thats a nice and sharp looking job that you have done there. You will be amazed and pleased with the 383 in your Z. I've been running a 393 in my 94 F150 and it will slap you in the seat, even at 70 or 80 mph. I can just imagine how it would be in a little Z car with a standard tranny. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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