tommyboy Posted September 18, 2007 Share Posted September 18, 2007 I recently had my L28E engine rebuilt. At the same time I decided to modify it by replacing the stock intake with an N42 non-EGR intake (In which I took off the Air Regulator, Thermal Vaccuum Valve (Type-C on the reg.), Cold Start Valve, and Thermotime Switch. I also replaced the stock TB with a 240SX TB. New injectors (along with new conectors from the EFI Harness), plugs, wires, etc. I also replaced the sock fuel rail with an extruded aluminum one which I installed a FPR on. Anywho, I'm listing all the mods I have cause I went to start it, and it'll turn over but won't start. Fuel pressure's good, I have spark. Do you guys know of anything I might be overlooking? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spacecase70 Posted September 18, 2007 Share Posted September 18, 2007 cold start valve, air regulator, thermotime switch, are all required for it to fireup cold, or you could give it a blast of "caugh, caugh" starting fluid, but you should do it and also check to see and hear if you rinjectors are working Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tommyboy Posted September 18, 2007 Author Share Posted September 18, 2007 BRAAP was sayin' that you don't really need those things. Just crank the engine a few times an' there'll be enough fuel in the cylinders to start it up. I'll have to check the injectors tomorrow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BillZ260 Posted September 18, 2007 Share Posted September 18, 2007 Double check your Distributor timing and make sure it's not 180 out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tommyboy Posted September 18, 2007 Author Share Posted September 18, 2007 Double check your Distributor timing and make sure it's not 180 out. You know, I saw that on another thread. What does that mean exactly? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
olie05 Posted September 18, 2007 Share Posted September 18, 2007 It means that the distributor shaft can accidentally be put in 180 degrees out, if you are not careful, or if the block was at TDC, but the head was not. Most likely though, if you have spark, and fuel going in you will get some signs of life. Start with the distributor, turn the engine to TDC and make sure the distributor rotor is pointing towards the front of the car. Then, make sure there is fuel going into the engine. Good luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iraqlou2007 Posted September 18, 2007 Share Posted September 18, 2007 You know, I saw that on another thread. What does that mean exactly? The distributor was put in the engine while the #1 cylinder was at TDC on exhaust stroke rather than on the compression stroke, they don’t run to good like that. LOL Lou Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tommyboy Posted September 18, 2007 Author Share Posted September 18, 2007 The distributor was put in the engine while the #1 cylinder was at TDC on exhaust stroke rather than on the compression stroke, they don’t run to good like that. LOL Lou Hmm...So how can I fix that? Sorry, I'm a little new to this whole TDC thing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
e_racer1999 Posted September 18, 2007 Share Posted September 18, 2007 drop the oil pump and rotate the shaft 180*. take of the distributor cap before you do and note the exact direction it points to you can get it to exactly 180*. put some cardboard down, it's messy. EDIT - before you do, put your engine at TDC, pop the valve cover off (to verify that the cam is at TDC as well, both lobes on the #1 cam will be up), and pop off the dist cap. if the rotor is pointing where it would to fire cyl #1, then something else is the problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tommyboy Posted September 18, 2007 Author Share Posted September 18, 2007 drop the oil pump and rotate the shaft 180*. take of the distributor cap before you do and note the exact direction it points to you can get it to exactly 180*. put some cardboard down, it's messy. EDIT - before you do, put your engine at TDC, pop the valve cover off (to verify that the cam is at TDC as well, both lobes on the #1 cam will be up), and pop off the dist cap. if the rotor is pointing where it would to fire cyl #1, then something else is the problem. I checked my old engine I had in the car to see where the drive spindle that connects to the bottom of the dizzy was positioned, and it's identical to where it is in the new engine. So, I'm thinkin it's somethng else. I'll just have to go through all of the ignition electronics and see if I can figure it out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
e_racer1999 Posted September 18, 2007 Share Posted September 18, 2007 well just remember that the crankshaft rotates twice for every rotation of the crankshaft. so although you might have it at "TDC," it not be the one you're thinking. check and make sure all three of those match up, because your car WILL NOT START if it is 180* out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tommyboy Posted September 18, 2007 Author Share Posted September 18, 2007 well just remember that the crankshaft rotates twice for every rotation of the crankshaft. so although you might have it at "TDC," it not be the one you're thinking. check and make sure all three of those match up, because your car WILL NOT START if it is 180* out. No that's what I meant to say. The valve cover was off of it, and I took out the injector from #1. I turned the crankover till I saw the piston at the top of the cylinder, then I checked the cam to make sure that both lobes were up, then I looked at the spindle. All of which were a-okay. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
e_racer1999 Posted September 18, 2007 Share Posted September 18, 2007 hrm.... have you verified that you are getting fuel and spark? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pyro Posted September 18, 2007 Share Posted September 18, 2007 My engine will not start with out the cold start injector. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roger.svoboda Posted September 19, 2007 Share Posted September 19, 2007 Not saying this is the problem but I had the same symptoms. Checked timing about eighteen times. Final solution was that since she didn't fire right up I had too much fuel in the manifold. kept smelling gas from the exhaust scratching the head what up. I disconnected the fuel pump opened the throttle wide (get in plenty of air) and cranked the beast for a good while. finally she fired and ran about 10 seconds. Did this several times til I got no more pops out of it. reconnected fuel pump she started right up and ran good. Be sure your battery is up to snuff full charge no corroded batt cables. ECU are voltage sensitive and you may be able to turn over the engine but she won't fire. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tommyboy Posted September 19, 2007 Author Share Posted September 19, 2007 Okay, so I told you guys that I have an aftermarket fuel rail and Fuel Pressure Reg. on the car. Well, the pressure gauge that I have on it registers pressure when I'm trying to start the car, but not when its off. Is it supposed to show pressure in the lines at all times? If so, then maybe it's the fuel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thumper Posted September 19, 2007 Share Posted September 19, 2007 Okay, so I told you guys that I have an aftermarket fuel rail and Fuel Pressure Reg. on the car. Well, the pressure gauge that I have on it registers pressure when I'm trying to start the car, but not when its off. Is it supposed to show pressure in the lines at all times? If so, then maybe it's the fuel. Sounds like you have a leaking injector, stuck open injector, or bad regulator. Verify that you get a click out of all 6 injectors while starting. Then take off the fuel rail and do a leak test should help point you in the right direction. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tommyboy Posted September 19, 2007 Author Share Posted September 19, 2007 Sounds like you have a leaking injector, stuck open injector, or bad regulator. Verify that you get a click out of all 6 injectors while starting. Then take off the fuel rail and do a leak test should help point you in the right direction. Damn, if it's not one thing it's another. I'll have my mechanic take a look at it and I'll keep you all updated. Thankx for all the help. You guys ROCK!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tommyboy Posted September 22, 2007 Author Share Posted September 22, 2007 So I talked to my mechanic after he had the car for a full day an' you were right BillZ260, it was 180 out. But he got it running, an' it should be ready for me to pick up on Monday! I'll post picks next week sometime. Again, thankx for the help guys! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thumper Posted September 22, 2007 Share Posted September 22, 2007 Glad you found what was causing the no start condition. I would also be worried about the dropping fuel pressure. It should hold pressure for atleast a half a hour if not longer after you turn off the car if your injectors and fuel pressure regulator is in good condition. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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