WizardBlack Posted September 18, 2007 Share Posted September 18, 2007 OK, I have searched and didn't come up with the answer. I am still learning as I read every thread I can get my hands on about shortnose R200 swaps, but perhaps my understanding is lacking such that I didn't pick up the answer from the discussion. Will Z31 turbo halfshafts (and perhaps the companion flanges from Modern Motorsports) fit into a shortnose R200? I want to do either a viscous 240SX R200 swap or that from a Q45 (which seems bigger and doesn't seem like the halfshafts would work). I am leaning towards the 240SX since they seem to be easy to get. I don't fear fabricating a front mount for the diff so that portion looks to be surmountable, but the whole halfshaft length issues and whatnot leaves me a bit concerned. Or, am I all wet and just getting a Z31 VLSD pumpkin the way to go? My biggest concern is that the width is incorrect. What can I mix-n-match? (Sorry if I missed it in my searches) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikelly Posted September 18, 2007 Share Posted September 18, 2007 I want to say "yes" it will, but I'd contact Ross at MML to get the answer for sure... And for the record, I've got the parts and am doing the Q45. If I were starting from Scratch, I'd buy a quaiffe equipped R200 with numerically low gears (In the 3.3 to 3.5 range) in it and NOT do the Q45. It's complexity and weight aren't worth it, in my opinion. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark Posted September 18, 2007 Share Posted September 18, 2007 If I were starting from Scratch, I'd buy a quaiffe equipped R200 with numerically low gears (In the 3.3 to 3.5 range) in it and NOT do the Q45. It's complexity and weight aren't worth it, in my opinion. Mike Mike is right. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WizardBlack Posted September 18, 2007 Author Share Posted September 18, 2007 I want to say "yes" it will, but I'd contact Ross at MML to get the answer for sure... And for the record, I've got the parts and am doing the Q45. If I were starting from Scratch, I'd buy a quaiffe equipped R200 with numerically low gears (In the 3.3 to 3.5 range) in it and NOT do the Q45. It's complexity and weight aren't worth it, in my opinion. Mike How much more do you think it weighs? Also, what do you think your parts costs are up to with a Q45 conversion? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted September 18, 2007 Share Posted September 18, 2007 Will Z31 turbo halfshafts (and perhaps the companion flanges from Modern Motorsports) fit into a shortnose R200? Yes. There is a section on this in this post describing all the parts needed: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=114798 I want to do either a viscous 240SX R200 swap or that from a Q45 (which seems bigger and doesn't seem like the halfshafts would work). Parts needed for this swap are also listed in the same thread. I am leaning towards the 240SX since they seem to be easy to get. I don't fear fabricating a front mount for the diff so that portion looks to be surmountable, but the whole halfshaft length issues and whatnot leaves me a bit concerned. Or, am I all wet and just getting a Z31 VLSD pumpkin the way to go? My biggest concern is that the width is incorrect. What can I mix-n-match? (Sorry if I missed it in my searches) Z31 VLSD is a rare bird. 88 SS models ONLY. The other Z31 LSD is from the 87-89 Z31T (excluding the 88 SS). This is still fairly rare, but much more common than the VLSD. Halfshaft issues are proving to be an obstacle as more guys with big power and very lowered cars are using them. My thought, and I haven't actually done anything with this thought yet, is to move the diff forward. This can be fairly easily done if you use the Ron Tyler style diff mount, and then that also lengthens the CV shafts which alleviates the bottoming issue. I've come up with 2 methods for moving the diff. One would be to bolt or weld a piece of 1.5" square tubing to the mustache bar and bolt the diff cover to that. The second would be to flip the mustache bar around. This might move the diff so far forward that the angularity is an issue. I don't know, I haven't tested anything yet. Unlike the stock halfshafts with their U-joints, the CV's should be able to handle a pretty healthy amount of angularity without binding, so hopefully one of the two would work. Either should be cheaper than machining new, shorter CV shaft centers, which would be the other option... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikelly Posted September 18, 2007 Share Posted September 18, 2007 hexles alone will set you back at minimum $1000, plus the adapters, plus a custom mount you need to make, since no body sells one, plus finding the dif and the adapter. I'd say it would cost at least $2000 to duplicate, and a quaiffe equipped rear is probably stronger. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark Posted September 19, 2007 Share Posted September 19, 2007 . Halfshaft issues are proving to be an obstacle as more guys with big power and very lowered cars are using them. My thought, and I haven't actually done anything with this thought yet, is to move the diff forward. This can be fairly easily done if you use the Ron Tyler style diff mount, and then that also lengthens the CV shafts which alleviates the bottoming issue. I have some useful info on this. I have an r200 and 82 zx cv halfshafts with AZC rear control arms. The arms are adjusted fully in. They are as short as they will go. My half shafts would just fit with the control arm horizontal to the ground. I think that is the position that puts the shafts in there most compressed position. It was very difficult to put it together. Seeing the redbird almost go up oin flames because of cv binding issues, I consulted Mayolives and he very generously shared his solution. He had shorter shafts made. I took my parts to the same shop that Tom did and my stock shafts were about .25 inches shorter than the shafts Tom had made. It appears there are different lengths of shafts floating around out there. If I could lengthen the rear control arms about .5 inches I would be comfortable running these shafts. Wheel offset prevents me from doing this. My new shorter shafts will be ready soon. When I pick them up, I'm going to see if they have any other of these type axels there. My shafts would work with stock control arms with out binding. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted September 19, 2007 Share Posted September 19, 2007 I assume there was supposed to be more there mark... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark Posted September 19, 2007 Share Posted September 19, 2007 I assume there was supposed to be more there mark... I was typing with my toes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WizardBlack Posted September 19, 2007 Author Share Posted September 19, 2007 Yes. There is a section on this in this post describing all the parts needed: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=114798 OK, thanks. I have read that thread several times. I guess I kept missing it, but I think it is implying that the 4xQ45 inners plus new axles solution is for all the shortnose R200's and R230's. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted September 19, 2007 Share Posted September 19, 2007 I was typing with my toes So what did the axles run you if you don't mind me asking? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark Posted September 19, 2007 Share Posted September 19, 2007 Tom paid 500 for his but they put his axels together. I'm hopeing for a little less. I think a crack habit would be less expensive! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WizardBlack Posted September 19, 2007 Author Share Posted September 19, 2007 hexles alone will set you back at minimum $1000, plus the adapters, plus a custom mount you need to make, since no body sells one, plus finding the dif and the adapter. I'd say it would cost at least $2000 to duplicate, and a quaiffe equipped rear is probably stronger. Mike Axles setting me back $1000? $250 a piece? You can get some for much cheaper than that? Are junkyard or Autozone or ebay shafts all considered a no no? A 240SX diff is cheap. I can fab the mount. That leaves the companion flanges which I have to buy even if I just use Z31T axles. Is this: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Axle-Shaft-INFINITI-Q45-90-94-R-Right_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33728QQihZ019QQitemZ8043384352QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWD1V not a good idea? Or is it that the custom shafts are ridiculously expensive? MM doesn't list them and you can't even call the ppl... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
getZ Posted September 19, 2007 Share Posted September 19, 2007 I personaly had problems getting my z31 axles to fit with MMS axle/companion flange set up and I've seen a couple of other threads with similar problems. The 300zxt cv's were about a half inch to long. This my opinion on installing the z31 cv's: If you have to force the strut tower back into place while attached to the spindle pin, you have to much pressure on the differential. Not everybody who installed this combination had problems and I still don't quite understand where the problem lies. Are the differential/lsd widths, CV lengths, bearing spacers or model type creating a mismatch? I don't have the answer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted September 19, 2007 Share Posted September 19, 2007 I personaly had problems getting my z31 axles to fit with MMS axle/companion flange set up and I've seen a couple of other threads with similar problems. The 300zxt cv's were about a half inch to long. This my opinion on installing the z31 cv's: If you have to force the strut tower back into place while attached to the spindle pin, you have to much pressure on the differential. Not everybody who installed this combination had problems and I still don't quite understand where the problem lies. Are the differential/lsd widths, CV lengths, bearing spacers or model type creating a mismatch? I don't have the answer. I think the answer is that the late 260s and 280s use a different strut housing. Unless they get sectioned a lot, the rear end is higher than a 240, which means that the CV's aren't as compressed. So it is really only the 240s and early 260s that have this problem, and then it's mostly noticeable when they're really lowered. John Coffey has a writeup about the stock halfshafts bottoming on his website, http://www.betamotorsports.com. Go to the bench racing section and you'll see it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted September 19, 2007 Share Posted September 19, 2007 Tom paid 500 for his but they put his axels together. I'm hopeing for a little less. I think a crack habit would be less expensive! I wonder if it would be worth trying to put a group buy together. Should get cheaper as the number of axles goes up, right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikelly Posted September 19, 2007 Share Posted September 19, 2007 My axles aren't stock... Shoulda mentioned that... Tim240Z had the centers provided by a vendor. These axles are supposed to be much stronger than the stock Q45 center section. When you price the four CVs to get the ends, the adapters, then the centers (I will be making a LOT of power) and all the rest of the parts, it gets real expensive... Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark Posted September 19, 2007 Share Posted September 19, 2007 I wonder if it would be worth trying to put a group buy together. Should get cheaper as the number of axles goes up, right? I'm sure the price will go down as the number goes up. Let me ask when I go pick mine up. Another consideration is trying to find what length halfshafts work for this set up. Mine and Tom's are slightly different. There may be axels already out there will solve this situation. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WizardBlack Posted September 20, 2007 Author Share Posted September 20, 2007 OK, well I can hardly see how the 240SX R200 + Q45 axles will be more expensive than Z31 axles + companion flanges + Quaife. That's $200 + $500 plus fabwork versus $150 + $400 + $2000. Quaifes are cool and all but dang... I could do one heck of a custom clutch LSD plus many rebuilds for that much. I always liked the idea of viscous anyways for the shock resistance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WizardBlack Posted September 20, 2007 Author Share Posted September 20, 2007 My axles aren't stock... Shoulda mentioned that... Tim240Z had the centers provided by a vendor. These axles are supposed to be much stronger than the stock Q45 center section. When you price the four CVs to get the ends, the adapters, then the centers (I will be making a LOT of power) and all the rest of the parts, it gets real expensive... Mike Wait a second. What centers do you need to get? Don't these pop into the pumpkin? Do you have to buy Q45 differential flanges (or center sections or whatever)? Custom? I can't find the 'kit' on their site and they have no phone number; nor do they seem to respond to my inquiries. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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