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RB26DETT into 240Z Beginner Progress


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Am I a complete idiot?  

32 members have voted

  1. 1. Am I a complete idiot?

    • Yes, either that or completely insane.
    • No, props to you!


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My dad does pretty much all of it. I've never personally welded aluminum before. You're changing your setup? We don't have a large enough bender, so the rest is just going to be straight tubes with angled joints all over the place.

 

Looks like I'm going to have to bring over a twelve pack and make some new friends.

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Keep your O2 sensor, that way when you are cruising the EFI can auto correct a/f ratios. Makes a big difference in gas mileage and idle.

 

Evan

 

 

I probably asked this already in some form, but I still don't get the advantages or disadvantages of O2 v. MAP. Correct me if I'm wrong, but nobody has both right? I assumed the map sensor would basically do the same thing that you described, although a shot in the dark I would say that sensing o2 right at stage one would be more precise. I dunno, somebody enlighten me on map sensors and why an aftermarket ems would have you switch over.

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get off me, idiot!

:twak:

 

lol j/k :-D

 

that's what SHE said.

 

I still don't know what that means. :weird: Is that a crowbar you're wielding? I don't even know what's going on anymore. Careless is in another world, but I guess I should have known that--it's in the name (but not to be confused with carefree of course.) :wink:

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I ordered the ATI #918599 damper today for $430 from Summit and it should be in stock in about two weeks...

 

I got the driveshaft back today. Ended up making a whole new one. They told me that the yoke is pretty much expendable, which I think means that they just didn't have the right size U-joint by itself, so I had to buy a whole new yoke for 80 bucks. They also ended up making a whole new shaft and put on a new rear flange, which is nice since the old joints were probably 35 years old. The only thing not so nice is I ended up paying full price, $350. The new shaft weighs 12lbs.

 

driveshaft.jpg

 

 

Pics are in for the mounting of the fuel filter and pump. Seems pretty legit. Especially the free line I scored, which is a huge overkill rated at some ridiculous pressure for marine use.

 

fuelline.jpg

 

pumpmount.jpg

 

pumpmount2.jpg

 

The ridiculous fan and thermostat--which will tap into the radiator--I ordered from Summit also came in the other day (starting to see a pattern?). Don't ask.

 

fan.jpg

 

An interesting little modification to keep the old intake rubber usable. Turned aluminum with a tapped hole.

 

intakeplug.jpg

 

intakeplug2.jpg

 

I still don't know what the original was like. I'm assuming it was a tube with the same function but also extended to the other turbo intake for some kind of equalization? The flange on the front intake is going to be cut flat and a straight tube welded on if I didn't mention that already. I noticed someone else on here had the same idea, to get rid of the bend and make more room for an air filter, but I can't remember who it was. Here's the before configuration to clarify:

 

intakeflange.jpg

 

My heater is hooked up. Huge step. Huge.

 

heaterhoseinstall.jpg

 

 

I guess I'll go put in the drive shaft now and then sip on coffee until some more ic tubes off ebay and the new balancer arrive. Side note, I've changed routes at least once already--it is likely that I will have plenty of leftover ic goodies if there are any takers.

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  • 3 weeks later...

I still don't know what the original was like. I'm assuming it was a tube with the same function but also extended to the other turbo intake for some kind of equalization? The flange on the front intake is going to be cut flat and a straight tube welded on if I didn't mention that already. I noticed someone else on here had the same idea, to get rid of the bend and make more room for an air filter, but I can't remember who it was. Here's the before configuration to clarify:

 

intakeflange.jpg

 

For the front turbo I had a flange made and then just welded a piece of straight pipe with a bead to allow the airfilter to fit better, has worked out just fine so far :)

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I have two new pieces, just haven't taken a picture yet or welded them together. The straight tube is about the thickness of the flange at the base to make it nice and easy to weld up from the inside and not have to worry about the bolt holes getting in the way. Plus it won't warp as easily as thin aluminum pipes. Once again, overkill I know. The new flange, on account of the old one actually being too oddly shaped from the inside, is just a really thick squarish piece that the original hex bolts will go through.

 

 

Tomorrow I'm going to weld up the gas tank, and probably put up a few more misc. pictures. I just got a nice little postcard from summit: two to four MORE weeks for the balancer to arrive and THEN be shipped to me, meaning at least ANOTHER month until the final fan, shroud, radiator, ic, ic tubing, mafs, and air filters get to be installed--ie. pretty much everything...

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Another thing I forgot to mention, while I made my driveshaft 29" overall, after putting it in for some reason it was apparent that it couldn't have hurt to be at least 1/2" longer. There's plenty of bite though as it is.

 

Also, as you can see in the pictures my fuel filter is mounted on whatever that bracket is called that holds up the A-arms. Pain in the ass, so don't bother. I guess it wouldn't have been so bad if I had payed attention in advance to the fact that the piece was hardened steel... On a completely unrelated topic, I have to buy a new set of drill bits now...

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My drive shaft has about a 1/4" of play in it, I would not worry about 1/2" either since the yoke is pretty long.

 

As far as waiting to do all that other stuff because the crank pulley, why don't you just start putting stuff in? The only thing you will need to pull to change the pulley is the radiator, so you can get everything fabbed up in the mean time and then pull the radiator which will be easier since its easy, slap on the pulley, throw on the alt belt, fill it with fluids then go :)

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Let me preface this post by saying I know absolutely NOTHING about the RB swaps, other than that they look COMPLICATED. That being said, have you looked into the 18" Lincoln fans or the 16" Taurus fans [electric]? They both pull buttloads of air [cfm in the 3500-400 range reportedly].

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I haven't heard anything like that really. At first I was thinking of looking for an oem type fan because it would probably be cheaper, but I got to lazy for the search. Also, would probably have been too large, and most fans of that sort, especially at that high of a rating, are pretty bulky. On this swap, the balancer is pretty close to the center of the radiator hole, so the fan motor would have to clear it.

 

On a side note, I've heard very mixed things about fans that make it hard to really know how much any given fan really pulls. Most people seem to say that the s-shaped blades pull more, and a lot of more recent car models and name brand fans are like this, but it could very well be a gimmick. In fact, perma cool only sells straight blades, which they specifically say pulls more than s-shaped. Overall though, it's supposed to be a good rule of thumb that about how much air a fan pulls is directly related to how many amps it pulls. If those fans are pulling 3500 cfm, I would expect them to be at least 25 amps. Many fans claim to be as high but in the same stride say they only pull ten, so does this make them just superefficient or what? If the blades themselves suck less air, then a motor at the same amperage draw should be able to simply spin faster to the point of equilibrium efficiency. In fact, the perma cool 12" fans are reported to pull the same amount as the 16" fans, due to the fact that they spin 50% faster--I believe the amperage draw is the same.

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Valid points. There is a TON of info on the net AND THIS SITE about the [famous] Taurus fans. They are very popular for rock crawlers and off roaders. The Taurus has S shaped blades, DOES pull alot of [spike] amps at start-up; but, most here seem to find a way to deal with it. The Lincoln fan is bigger, with pie-shaped blades. Again, ton of info. Just google "Taurus Lincoln Fan" Also, see them on eBay for reference. I do believe that there is a pic on this site comparing the two.

If they won't fit your application, it is mute....

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Radiator Fan Assemblies

 

Item / Number / Description

DORMAN PART NUMBER 620-101

1995-90 Taurus, Sable, Continental

 

Detailed Applications

 

Year / Make / Model / Engine / Application / Note

1995 MERCURY SABLE V6 - 3.8L (232 CID): GAS: FI: N: 4 Incl. Shroud, Motor & Blade

1995 FORD TAURUS: SE V6 - 3.8L (232 CID): GAS: FI: N: 4 Incl. Shroud, Motor & Blade

1995 FORD TAURUS: LX V6 - 3.8L (232 CID): GAS: FI: N: 4 Incl. Shroud, Motor & Blade

1995 FORD TAURUS: GL V6 - 3.8L (232 CID): GAS: FI: N: 4 Incl. Shroud, Motor & Blade

1994 MERCURY SABLE V6 - 3.8L (232 CID): GAS: FI: N: 4 Incl. Shroud, Motor & Blade

1994 LINCOLN CONTINENTAL: SIGNATURE V6 - 3.8L (232 CID): GAS: FI: N: 4 Incl. Shroud, Motor & Blade

1994 LINCOLN CONTINENTAL: EXECUTIVE V6 - 3.8L (232 CID): GAS: FI: N: 4 Incl. Shroud, Motor & Blade

1994 FORD TAURUS: LX V6 - 3.8L (232 CID): GAS: FI: N: 4 Incl. Shroud, Motor & Blade

1994 FORD TAURUS: GL V6 - 3.8L (232 CID): GAS: FI: N: 4 Incl. Shroud, Motor & Blade

1993 MERCURY SABLE V6 - 3.8L (232 CID): GAS: FI: N: 4 Incl. Shroud, Motor & Blade

1993 LINCOLN CONTINENTAL: SIGNATURE V6 - 3.8L (232 CID): GAS: FI: N: 4 Incl. Shroud, Motor & Blade

1993 LINCOLN CONTINENTAL: EXECUTIVE V6 - 3.8L (232 CID): GAS: FI: N: 4 Incl. Shroud, Motor & Blade

1993 FORD TAURUS: LX V6 - 3.8L (232 CID): GAS: FI: N: 4 Incl. Shroud, Motor & Blade

1993 FORD TAURUS: GL V6 - 3.8L (232 CID): GAS: FI: N: 4 Incl. Shroud, Motor & Blade

1992 MERCURY SABLE V6 - 3.8L (232 CID): GAS: FI: N: 4 Incl. Shroud, Motor & Blade

1992 LINCOLN CONTINENTAL: SIGNATURE V6 - 3.8L (232 CID): GAS: FI: N: 4 Incl. Shroud, Motor & Blade

1992 LINCOLN CONTINENTAL: EXECUTIVE V6 - 3.8L (232 CID): GAS: FI: N: 4 Incl. Shroud, Motor & Blade

1992 FORD TAURUS: LX V6 - 3.8L (232 CID): GAS: FI: N: 4 Incl. Shroud, Motor & Blade

1992 FORD TAURUS: L V6 - 3.8L (232 CID): GAS: FI: N: 4 Incl. Shroud, Motor & Blade

1992 FORD TAURUS: GL V6 - 3.8L (232 CID): GAS: FI: N: 4 Incl. Shroud, Motor & Blade

1991 MERCURY SABLE V6 - 3.8L (232 CID): GAS: FI: N: 4 Incl. Shroud, Motor & Blade

1991 LINCOLN CONTINENTAL: SIGNATURE V6 - 3.8L (232 CID): GAS: FI: N: 4 Incl. Shroud, Motor & Blade

1991 LINCOLN CONTINENTAL: EXECUTIVE V6 - 3.8L (232 CID): GAS: FI: N: 4 Incl. Shroud, Motor & Blade

1991 FORD TAURUS: LX V6 - 3.8L (232 CID): GAS: FI: N: 4 Incl. Shroud, Motor & Blade

1991 FORD TAURUS: L V6 - 3.8L (232 CID): GAS: FI: N: 4 Incl. Shroud, Motor & Blade

1991 FORD TAURUS: GL V6 - 3.8L (232 CID): GAS: FI: N: 4 Incl. Shroud, Motor & Blade

1990 MERCURY SABLE V6 - 3.8L (232 CID): GAS: FI: N: 4 Incl. Shroud, Motor & Blade

1990 LINCOLN CONTINENTAL V6 - 3.8L (232 CID): GAS: FI: N: 4 Incl. Shroud, Motor & Blade

1990 LINCOLN CONTINENTAL: SIGNATURE V6 - 3.8L (232 CID): GAS: FI: N: 4 Incl. Shroud, Motor & Blade

1990 FORD TAURUS: LX V6 - 3.8L (232 CID): GAS: FI: N: 4 Incl. Shroud, Motor & Blade

1990 FORD TAURUS: GL V6 - 3.8L (232 CID): GAS: FI: N: 4 Incl. Shroud, Motor & Blade

END OF LIST

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