Z24O Posted April 16, 2008 Share Posted April 16, 2008 I am not sure about running the fuel line down the trans tunnel,if ever the tailshaft let go it would more than likely sever the line dumping fuel everywhere. Not a criticism,just a point to bear in mind. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
getoffmyinternet Posted April 16, 2008 Author Share Posted April 16, 2008 'bout $125, peaks upto 40amps in the high setting. low setting pulls a heck of a lot of air anyway. That was oddly specific. 40 amps! wow. Is it a manual switch to go into high speed? I can't imagine a motor like that would fit in my bay though--same reason why I ended up not going with the cruiser fan, which also had two speeds, one ridiculously high one that it automatically goes into if it gets a little hot. I could have scored that fan for free too, but it was about 5" thick and would probably still rub the ati damper. I think it pulls about 30 amps... I am not sure about running the fuel line down the trans tunnel,if ever the tailshaft let go it would more than likely sever the line dumping fuel everywhere.Not a criticism,just a point to bear in mind. Wow, that's a pretty scary thought. Either way I'd be screwed, but if there's any line that could be impervious to severing, it would be this stuff. I think it's even rated at over 200psi. Ruber, wrapped in steel braid, wrapped in rubber: surely tougher than the original lines. But I guess if someone rolled a grenade under there... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240Z2NV Posted April 16, 2008 Share Posted April 16, 2008 The spike is actually higher amperage than that. There is TONS of info about it RIGHT ON THIS SITE.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Careless Posted April 16, 2008 Share Posted April 16, 2008 but it was about 5" thick and would probably still rub the ati damper. I think it pulls about 30 amps... As 240Z2NV stated, there are tons of info threads on this regarding it. I think you should give that fan a look cause it's pretty cheap and readily available. But I guess if someone rolled a grenade under there...It would still get yanked and poked at a velocity high enough that it could burst because of the pressure on the inside acting against the pressure on the outside. Imagine a driveshaft waggling around at 7000rpm. Do you think the line would be safe in close quarters with that thing? especially if you have a driveshaft loop, you might end up keeping the driveshaft within the same quarters so that it hits the fuel line hundreds of times before you slow down. I guess since if your driveshaft undoes itself, you won't be driving, so severing the gas line is only doing you a favor cause you may end up draining it to do more work in that area anyway. oh, and if a grenade went off under there, I don't think you'd have a gas line or a fuel tank at all. you live in some bad parts 'a town, man! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
synthtk Posted April 16, 2008 Share Posted April 16, 2008 I ran my SS braided fuel lines down the trans tunnel, just like stock, seems a much better idea than under the body pan where they could scrape the ground since this car does not have deep frame rails to protect the lines. The brake lines are up there too... so if by some chance the shaft broke and then by some change went to the upper corner of the tunnel you would lose brakes anyway.... something at that point in time would be more important that losing your fuel I would think.... Needless to say I am personally not too concerned about the drive shaft banging up the lines. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RB26powered74zcar Posted April 16, 2008 Share Posted April 16, 2008 Thats what drive shaft loops are for... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
getoffmyinternet Posted April 16, 2008 Author Share Posted April 16, 2008 The spike is actually higher amperage than that. There is TONS of info about it RIGHT ON THIS SITE.... I'm not sure that a high spike is actually a good thing... oh, and if a grenade went off under there, I don't think you'd have a gas line or a fuel tank at all. you live in some bad parts 'a town, man! I dunno, that gas tank looks pretty buff. so if by some chance the shaft broke and then by some change went to the upper corner of the tunnel you would lose brakes anyway.... something at that point in time would be more important that losing your fuel I would think.... Yeah I'm thinking on the same track there. If the drive shaft breaks it's pretty much time to call it a day anyhow. Still, I guess I should probably not plan on lining my transmission tunnel with flint or anything. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
getoffmyinternet Posted April 21, 2008 Author Share Posted April 21, 2008 The new larger fuel tank lines. The pressure line never did seal well so I ended up silver soldering the crush fitting together at the seams. The tank after silver soldering. The solder cracked at first, possibly due to cooling so quickly (full of water), but after pressure testing and resoldering a problem area several times it eventually sealed up good and tight. After the first coat of rubberized underbelly paint. Don't be confused by the size of my old oil pressure sender, it's actually a kiddie chair. To work with my stock oil pressure gauge. I'm starting to feel like a Fram sponsor, because it always seems to be conveniently posed. The new front turbo flange and inlet. Hopefully the last of the ic accessories. One cut and we're good to go. Two cuts on this side of different lengths. Definitely not an exact science. I'll only end up using one of the hump hoses after all. It was supposed to be blue as well, but the seller mailed me the wrong ones and refused to return them. What a prick. In retrospect all black couplers would have been safer. The reducers look more purplish in real life and in turn make the engine look a little greenish, while the elbow looks more bright blue than the engine, so it's all a bit mismatch, but oh well--that's what the hood is for. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
getoffmyinternet Posted April 21, 2008 Author Share Posted April 21, 2008 Well there's plenty of room now. When I get my custom fan shroud from the shop it's all getting filled. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
getoffmyinternet Posted April 27, 2008 Author Share Posted April 27, 2008 I should have a poll to see if this horn I scored should be mounted on my hood. I forgot about the injector resistors for a while. Here's the pack made out of heat shrink. The odd thing is that my ohmmeter says something like 8ohms even though they are labeled 6ohm. I don't know if this will be a problem or not but we'll see. The turbo inlet flange after the two pieces being flush welded and sanded smooth. Can't even tell they were once separate. The aluminum fan shroud. The tray is about an inch deep with a rolled tunnel around the hole. So far just primer black. The side view of the fan shroud including the newly installed temp switch for the fan. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
synthtk Posted April 28, 2008 Share Posted April 28, 2008 Def do not get your fingers near that fan.... chop chop! Keep up the good work Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
getoffmyinternet Posted April 29, 2008 Author Share Posted April 29, 2008 I actually sharpened them just for the laughs. If I cut off a finger I want it to at least be a clean cut. ;p Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stony Posted April 29, 2008 Share Posted April 29, 2008 Dude get rid of that ♥♥♥♥♥♥♥ piece of ♥♥♥♥ filter.... http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=133446 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daeron Posted April 30, 2008 Share Posted April 30, 2008 I actually sharpened them just for the laughs. If I cut off a finger I want it to at least be a clean cut. ;p I like your thinking Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
getoffmyinternet Posted April 30, 2008 Author Share Posted April 30, 2008 Ouch! That sucks. I always new fram was on the low end, but sometimes you just look at the outside and think a filter is a filter. I bought mine for the exact same reason you did. I plan on changing the oil again after a 500 mile break in. I don't know if what happened to your engine concerns me much right now, but either way I will definitely be steering clear from fram in the future. Thanks for the heads up. The filter study actually sounds pretty scary indeed. I speculate it could be a combination of things that ruined your day, prominently the failing bearing easily clogging the low surface area filter element. Of course every time I hear the word "plastic" I think of another critical component that's going to fall apart. Just a really sad day. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daeron Posted April 30, 2008 Share Posted April 30, 2008 as I said in the thread he linked to, I have seen heard of this same thing happen when there was absolutely no cause to suspect any internal engine failure UNTIL a clogged filter, caused by collapse, impeded oil flow. Orange Fram. I drive a POS econobox subaru and i care enough about my engine to have changed it within a week or two, because buying and installing it gave me the buyer's remorse anyhow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
getoffmyinternet Posted May 4, 2008 Author Share Posted May 4, 2008 I've got an idea for how I would like to make the turbo intakes, but for it to be desirable I need two 4" 45 degree aluminum elbows. There are only a couple for sale on ebay and they cost a fortune for some reason. I could do it with 3" pipes but I would like to keep the flow as free as possible. Does anyone have any leftover intercooler piping they would be willing to part with? I'm going to scan a crude drawing later tonight of what it should look like when it is done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
getoffmyinternet Posted May 5, 2008 Author Share Posted May 5, 2008 If anyone has a better idea I'm open to suggestions. Pictures of your setup would be great. Keep in mind I'm doing my intake through the stock form using the original rubber flex tube that came with the motor. I don't know if this is how anyone else has done it so far. I'm going for function, not form. Also trying to keep costs down. Shoot if I had a mandrel this would have been one fine piece of cake... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
getoffmyinternet Posted May 5, 2008 Author Share Posted May 5, 2008 I was also wondering if any of you guys just lathed off the flange from your maf and slipped a silicone connector over it? It would save a little space and solve a problem if I have to connect a tube end to the maf, like from an angle and using a reducer--the silicone piece could cut out the middleman (an extra aluminum bend). No thoughts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Careless Posted May 6, 2008 Share Posted May 6, 2008 if u can cut a 3 inch pipe down the middle, weld on some 2 inch or so wide plates at the edges on both sides, you can then extend it to about 5 inches in diameter. then you can Y-weld a collector of two 3 inch pipes with a smooth transition (cause the strip you welded in the middle of the two 3 inch halves can be tapered to allow a widening or narrowing of the "short plenum" as i'll call it.) you can even put a divider in there so that it doesn't balonn and so it keeps velocity up for the times when it's revving low. That's what I would do since i have a welder i could practice on. and im sure you could do it. whats the worst that could happen, if u got some extra pipe layin around. it'll be a chore, and some people are fed up and just want it on the road. LOL, so its a draw on the decision for me if it were my choice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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