timek1m Posted November 10, 2007 Share Posted November 10, 2007 i dont know if this has been discussed yet. but can anyone walk me through on how to adjust the clutch? im assuming this car isnt hydralic and i have to do it from behind the clutch petal. so what exactly do i have to do. step by step. and what not to do, when i dont find out how to do things. i always end up doing the what-not-to-do's so im asking ahead of time. thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Savage42 Posted November 10, 2007 Share Posted November 10, 2007 What model car is it? If it's a Z, then it is hydraulic and self adjusting. You can get rid of play in the pedal by adjusting the rod, but that in itself is not a "clutch adjustment". If your pedal engagement is at the top of the pedal travel, you clutch is about worn out. If you have to push it to the floor and it releases just as you let off, you probably need to bleed the system (black fluid in the reservior?) or you may have a clutch master going out. Hope that helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted November 10, 2007 Share Posted November 10, 2007 There were manual adjust slave cylinders on the 70 and 71 Z. But yeah, being that this is Hybrid Z it would help to know what drivetrain you're using. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
timek1m Posted November 10, 2007 Author Share Posted November 10, 2007 its a bare bone stock, L28 engine, 75 280z, i know it sounds bad taht its stock, but it is my girlfriend's dad's car and its been sitting in the garage for eight years and it is all mint condition inside and out. i got it running (as in starts, but not a good idea to start it)but there are little things wrong with it. like the brake is leaking air, the waterpump is broken so leaking fluid, thermostat is broken, the clutch needs to be adjusted, but it had fluid in it, but i think it needs adjustment tell me what you think. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Savage42 Posted November 11, 2007 Share Posted November 11, 2007 Well, that's a perfect example of why you start up and drive a car at least a few times a year, so you don't have to end up replacing all that stuff. Typical problems, non really that major. As for the clutch, no adjustment as per my first post. If it bled out and doesn't work, then it either wore out or maybe the disk is stuck to the flywheel, throw out bearing sleeve might be sticking to the shaft, throwout bearing might be frozen. Good luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted November 11, 2007 Share Posted November 11, 2007 Pull the rubber boots off the clutch master master and slave. If fluid pours out, then you need to replace them. As Gary suggested, clutch hydraulics can have problems when they sit for a long time they can get corrosion in the bores, then when you push in the clutch pedal in it drags the rubber seal through all the junk in there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
timek1m Posted November 11, 2007 Author Share Posted November 11, 2007 ok. thanks for the info. now define bleeding. cuz i got lost there. so i dont have to adjust it, but bleeding. and when the clutch is being pumped nothing happens to the clutch master. so anyone can explain in depths what i should do? thanks again. you guys are great help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Savage42 Posted November 11, 2007 Share Posted November 11, 2007 You can loosen the 10mm bleeder screw on the clutch slave and make sure there is fluid in the clutch master and pump away. You can gravity bleed it and the fluid will usually just continue to drip until it's empty, just make sure you get any & all air out. So, if it does "nothing" when you push the clutch pedal, then the master is probably bad. If you see the clutch slave moving the rod and the throw out bearing fork and there is still "nothing", then the pressure plate/disk/flywheel are all probably rusted together. Sometimes you can start it in gear with the clutch pedal pressed and get them to break free....sometimes not. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
timek1m Posted November 11, 2007 Author Share Posted November 11, 2007 thanks for the help. hopefully you can answer this for me. where would i find the slave? and the fork? well i dotn know if this info helps you any. the car starts. and you could put it in gear, but once the clutch is being released the car doesnt move. but it can stall, havent stalled it, but got it to the brink of doing so jsut to see. thanks. hope you can help me some more savage42 your info is helping me a lot so dont think your not going unthanked. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z or bust Posted November 11, 2007 Share Posted November 11, 2007 The slave cylinder is on the transmission. It sounds ike it needs to be bled but it couldnt hurt to buy a new one. They're only about 10 bucks. and if all else fails buy a clutch master cylinder for 20. a good system bleed and you'll be on the road. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
timek1m Posted November 11, 2007 Author Share Posted November 11, 2007 oh. thank you. thanks for all the help ill check it out today. if anything, thanks again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m1noel Posted November 11, 2007 Share Posted November 11, 2007 Time I would definatley spend the few bucks to buy a good shop manual for this car. It will save you a bunch of time and money eliminating a lot of the oops factor. you can probably find one on ebay. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phil280zxt Posted November 12, 2007 Share Posted November 12, 2007 You can download a free copy of the factory service manual at carfiche.com. They may not have your exact year, put pick one that 's close and it should be fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nbesheer Posted November 13, 2007 Share Posted November 13, 2007 You should replace them both at the same time (master and slave) I just replaced the ones on my ZX for like $70 total but they are tokico oem ones from http://www.zcarparts.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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