Guest ladyz Posted December 5, 2007 Share Posted December 5, 2007 i decided to just go and pick up brembo's slotted. not drilled. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Evan Purple240zt Posted December 5, 2007 Share Posted December 5, 2007 I just wanted to say thanks. It seems rare anymore that anyone comes onto forums for influence in a decision. Usually they listen, then buy whatever they want. You made a good choice! How much more were the brembos? Evan BTW, Whats NOT to like about light up washer nozzles? lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest TeamNissan Posted December 5, 2007 Share Posted December 5, 2007 Yes ladyz, goos choice. Wait someone was making fun of light up washer nozzles?!!!!!! blasphemy!!! hahaha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest ladyz Posted January 2, 2008 Share Posted January 2, 2008 does anyone by chance know the proper way to break in rotors? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Six_Shooter Posted January 2, 2008 Share Posted January 2, 2008 does anyone by chance know the proper way to break in rotors? Brake like normal. Bedding pads is something else, and even though I have NEVER experianced a difference in the way the brakes perform or last by bedding the pads in a "prefered" or "proper" way vs. Just using my brakes, or getting on them "too hard", "too soon". "prefered way" would be to use light to moderate braking for the first 500 Kms or so, so that the pad and rotor can wear in to each other. The way I do it: I just drive like I normally would, brake hard, brake light, emergency brake ( that's for the 400 series highways of southern Ontario ). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Modern Motorsports Ltd Posted January 2, 2008 Share Posted January 2, 2008 That's been the primary reason I've heard for cross drilled rotors being a bad idea(besides the fact that they don't help much). ...the McLaren F1 has 'em, so does the Carrera GT(carbon!), so they must be good for something... Yes, they DO have their function. But HUGE difference is those truly high end rotors are designed from the beginning knowing they'll be machined with thru holes. As part of the design they can optimize stress paths in the casting design etc as well as tooling used to truly minimize cracking potential. Majority of drilled rotors have ZERO design towards accommodating this and the drilled holes are simply a pattern machined thru. I've seen cheap and pricey drilled ones cracked like swiss cheese. I almost never recommend treated rotors but do sell them regularly on custom request to customers. Our drilled 2 piece do look incredible with their very nicely machined chamfered holes, they'll show alongside any other rotor and function is excellent but my engineering side prefers the pure blanks. Our typical kits we've put out with the drilled/slotted cad plated etc on request. Bhines commented why upgrade street brakes when you can already lock up your tires? What's to be gained? I'd answer your ability to modulate your threshold braking to 99% of lockup is MUCH easier with improved brakes (ie. greater available braking force/modulation - NOT talking about drilled rotors etc). Stock brakes for ie. you may jump from 90% available (just an assumed value) lockup braking to 100% with a junior to average driver. With improved brakes it's just that much easier to modulate your brakes 'prelockup' maximizing brake force/minimizing brake distance. I'm no Mario at all for driving skill and that's the exact effect I experienced firstly with KVR pads and SS lines, then to a much greater degree with my 13" setup. Both on my 280ZX, same applies to the Z's and is consistent our feedback over the years. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikelly Posted January 2, 2008 Share Posted January 2, 2008 Yup, It's true, those high end brakes made by Porsche and others use drilled rotors. I have them on the Twin Turbo as OEM parts from porsche. I hate them, and most other guys who run their OEMs hate them as well... A side effect of those holes is they pack up with used material and can cause shudder at the steering wheel under hard braking. Captain Furious, One other thing to consider is those deep pockets supporting those carbon rotors. For the Porsche system, It's a $15,000 option: http://e-partssales.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=P&Product_Code=CERAMICS&Category_Code=996brakesTT The main reason most teams use these types of brake systems is the reduced weight. Remember, these are pro teams with vast budgets where cutting 10ths of a second is worth many thousands of $! I hate those things and will replace them on the porsche as soon as funds allow...Unfortunately Ross isn't in the Porsche parts business! Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zdisease Posted January 5, 2008 Share Posted January 5, 2008 Are stainless steel brake hoses a better investment than slotted rotors ? zdisease Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Six_Shooter Posted January 5, 2008 Share Posted January 5, 2008 Are stainless steel brake hoses a better investment than slotted rotors ? zdisease YES! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TrumpetRhapsody Posted January 5, 2008 Share Posted January 5, 2008 So to summarize in a question form: - Unless cast and designed into expensive rotors for weight reduction, drilling is mainly for looks - Slotting helps direct gas away from pads to nix brake fade. Combine with track pads, no (reasonably) brake fade? - Stainless steel brake lines help with fluid temps, and don't expand or deteriorate like rubber lines. Is this all pretty much on base? Learning about brakes has been high on my list ever since I experienced severe brake fade on a ford exploder after some slightly enthusiastic driving. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ktm Posted January 5, 2008 Share Posted January 5, 2008 Brake like normal. Bedding pads is something else, and even though I have NEVER experianced a difference in the way the brakes perform or last by bedding the pads in a "prefered" or "proper" way vs. Just using my brakes, or getting on them "too hard", "too soon". "prefered way" would be to use light to moderate braking for the first 500 Kms or so, so that the pad and rotor can wear in to each other. The way I do it: I just drive like I normally would, brake hard, brake light, emergency brake ( that's for the 400 series highways of southern Ontario ). It depends on brake pad. Hawk HPS recommends that you drive up to 60 mph and do 3 hard stops in order to bed the pads. Otherwise, you could glaze the rotors and have to deal with a nice squeak everytime you stopped. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest TeamNissan Posted January 5, 2008 Share Posted January 5, 2008 I believe stainless lines also help fade, pressure that expands rubber lines would otherwise be going to pad pressure. What year explorer? I remember slamming my brakes in my 98xlt and the truck just continuing on regardless. Thats the abs system though, combined with a somewhat heavy truck. I don't think it would be too easy to induce brake fade on a explorer to be honest. So to summarize in a question form: - Unless cast and designed into expensive rotors for weight reduction, drilling is mainly for looks - Slotting helps direct gas away from pads to nix brake fade. Combine with track pads, no (reasonably) brake fade? - Stainless steel brake lines help with fluid temps, and don't expand or deteriorate like rubber lines. Is this all pretty much on base? Learning about brakes has been high on my list ever since I experienced severe brake fade on a ford exploder after some slightly enthusiastic driving. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TrumpetRhapsody Posted January 5, 2008 Share Posted January 5, 2008 It was a 98, not sure on the trim... AWD bagged Eddie Bauer. Granted I was being a little rough on it, repeated quick stops etc, but if it had been a track car under the same circumstances it could have gotten ugly. It was definately fade though. It was spongy and nothing like an ABS stop, just glided right through a stop sign. So I just want to make sure whatever goes on the Z can handle abuse. But I digress Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
73DatsunZ Posted January 12, 2008 Share Posted January 12, 2008 Hmm, I have just heard that slotted rotors help a lot with heat dissapation. Maybe I was misinformed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rudypoochris Posted January 12, 2008 Share Posted January 12, 2008 Thats a bummer about your Explorer. Were you running OE pads? Was the car well bled? Is the peddal spongy when static? I drive a 1992 and it has quite a hard pedal. I have never experienced fade personally. The most I have ever done is 3 sequential stops from 70-75mph at I would say 90-95% of threshold (I went over a bit on the first stop and from then on it was like I could feel right when it was about to go over again, if that makes sense). I found the modulation to be surprisingly good. The pedal would start to run out of travel a bit towards the end, but never required a re-pump. I stopped since I felt it was pointless abuse. I was actually deliberately trying to get it to fade. That being said 92 and 98 are different... ABS and rear disc on the 98... Back on topic... I have heard that drilled rotors are crack prone. Is that in ALL cases, or is that only in cases where drilling was done on normal rotors. Furthermore, does slotting actually give an appreciable amount of increased braking performance, does it wear pads out, and lastly if it does give better performance why are the most common Wilwood race rotors typically blanks? Lastly, J-hooks? Thanks guys, I am learning! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikelly Posted January 12, 2008 Share Posted January 12, 2008 It really depends on the rotor manufacturer, but reality is they will "heatcheck" much quicker than a cheap solid rotor... Here's something else to consider... PADS eat ROTORS. In the corvette world all the track guys buy cheap NAPA rotors for $30 each, use aggressive Hawk/Carbotechs/Wilwoods/Whatever the sexy pad of the day is and they keep spairs on hand... Solid rotors crack too... It boils down to what the intended use of the vehicle is. I have two sets of pads for the porsche and swap them between events. The Pagid pads I use on track require 3 aggressive stops from above 80mph, followed by immediate "cool down" for their bedding process. For looks, crossdrilled rotors are a hit. For stopping purposes, they just don't seem to do well on anything other than race cars... Plan to check them often if you track with them... I do. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest ladyz Posted January 14, 2008 Share Posted January 14, 2008 i picked up some xs engineering off the internet and my homie gave me some EBC Red stuff worked out pretty well! i havn't took any pics of them on my car yet but i will soon this week. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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