hondabait Posted December 26, 2007 Share Posted December 26, 2007 Is it possible to push the engine back in a 260? I noticed enough room to set it back about 3 to 4 inches. Has anyone done this or thought about doing this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dragonfly Posted December 26, 2007 Share Posted December 26, 2007 Other than a couple of race cars I am not aware of anyone pushing an L series engine back. I have to ask though... Why? With the L series engine the car is at almost a perfect 50/50 balance. Dragonfly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hondabait Posted December 26, 2007 Author Share Posted December 26, 2007 I did not know that, what is the exact percentage front and rear? The thing is I'm going to pull the motor to do some cleaning on it and a few other things to it, and the chassis, while it's out. While I was at it I was going to push the motor back and have my drive shaft shortened. Also if someone would be so kind as to tell me what parts of the engine to hook the chains of my cherry picker to it would be helpful. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators RTz Posted December 26, 2007 Administrators Share Posted December 26, 2007 http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=113687 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted December 26, 2007 Share Posted December 26, 2007 Why? With the L series engine the car is at almost a perfect 50/50 balance. Becuased you can get an even better 48/52 weight distribution. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dragonfly Posted December 26, 2007 Share Posted December 26, 2007 Becuased you can get an even better 48/52 weight distribution. I'm not going to discurage him from doing it, but I suspect that untill he gets into the same realm of driving that you are he will not be able to tell the difference. Kinda like the old "my car handles like its on rails" thing. Also if someone would be so kind as to tell me what parts of the engine to hook the chains of my cherry picker to it would be helpful. Thanks. At the front of the engine by the #1 spark plug there should be a metal plate with hole in it that is bolted to the head, if the metal plate is not there you can use a bolt with washers into the head at the same point, that is where you hook up the front part of the chain. The rear part of the chain I personaly always bolted the chain to the rear most exhaust stud. Dragonfly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hondabait Posted December 27, 2007 Author Share Posted December 27, 2007 Thanks Rontyler for the link. I did not know about all the interference problems. I will have to do more research on how to solve those problems but in the meanwhile I'll just get the motor out. Thank you dragon fly for the info but I just have one more question. Is it better to remove the transmission before removing the engine or not? I think I'll have to take off the trans to get the engine out but I just want a second opinion. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clifton Posted December 27, 2007 Share Posted December 27, 2007 Moving it 2" straight back is easy. Anything more and you need to figure something out with the rack to oil pump clearance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rturbo 930 Posted December 27, 2007 Share Posted December 27, 2007 Thanks Rontyler for the link. I did not know about all the interference problems. I will have to do more research on how to solve those problems but in the meanwhile I'll just get the motor out. Thank you dragon fly for the info but I just have one more question. Is it better to remove the transmission before removing the engine or not? I think I'll have to take off the trans to get the engine out but I just want a second opinion. Thanks.when we took the engine out of my 280z, we left the transmission on and had no problems taking it out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hondabait Posted December 27, 2007 Author Share Posted December 27, 2007 I noticed the pump/rack clearance problem. The exhaust/footwell doesn't seem to be a problem with my aftermarket headers. And I guess I should get a good balancer so I need to make room for that. Any pics on the rack fix? I got everything off the motor and trans. Tomorrow they're coming out seperatly but then again I don't want to damage the input shaft, so maybe I should take it out in one piece. Though the trans seems light enough for me to take out by my self. Is it wise to bench press a 5-speed out or will I damage the input shaft? I've benched heavy as heck automatics but those have torque converters that you unbolt first and bolt on last. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dragonfly Posted December 27, 2007 Share Posted December 27, 2007 I noticed the pump/rack clearance problem. The exhaust/footwell doesn't seem to be a problem with my aftermarket headers. And I guess I should get a good balancer so I need to make room for that. Any pics on the rack fix? I got everything off the motor and trans. Tomorrow they're coming out seperatly but then again I don't want to damage the input shaft, so maybe I should take it out in one piece. Though the trans seems light enough for me to take out by my self. Is it wise to bench press a 5-speed out or will I damage the input shaft? I've benched heavy as heck automatics but those have torque converters that you unbolt first and bolt on last. Thanks. Personal opinion here but for me it is easier to pull the transmission out first (i've done this many times by myself) then the engine out seperately, but before pulling the engine and trans apart from each other have your chains and cherry picker on the engine or an extra jack under the engine. When putting them back in if you are by yourself engine and trans attached then install, if you have a helper engine first then transmission. When you pull the transmission the first thing to do is make sure absolutely everything is disconnected from it, then get a fairly large disposable rug (one that does not have rubber on the underside), put the rug under the transmission, put a good floor jack on top of the rug under the transmission, remove the bellhousing bolts, remove the trans mount bolts. Now the transmission should be held up by the jack and balanced by the shaft going into the clutch, lower the transmission a few inches letting the engine tilt down with it. When you have enough clearance to pull the transmission away from the engine without any thing hitting lock the engine in place with your cherry picker or extra floor jack, very carefully lower the jack under the transmission at the same time you pull the transmission back away from the engine. When they are fully seperated balance the transmission while lowering it the rest of the way down. Now lift the back of the transmission up untill the bellhousing supports the transmission and pull the jack out from under it, lower the transmission onto the carpet. Climb out from under the car, grab the carpet and slide it with the transmission on it out from under the car... wala you have pulled the transmission by yourself without having to bench press it, drop it, or throw your back out. Use the same procedure but in reverse to reinstall by yourself. Dragonfly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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