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no egr, fine without it or bad for motor??


Guest mrh3rbs

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Guest mrh3rbs

to all my z enthusiasts out there i need some advise. i recently installed some aftermarket headers on my 1990 z32 n/a but just couldnt get the egr pipe back into the exhuast manifold. so i plugged it up temporary till i do an official TT swap. just wanted to get some feed back as to how bad this could be for my engine now. not experiencing any difficulties so far. but is this ok for a short time or does it even play a big roll in my engines life? even how long is it possible to ride around like this? i know as much as it will help with my gas mileage, but im not to concerned with that as long as it wont cuase any major problems. or will it? please help!

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NOx levels are going to be a lot higher, which in turn creates exhaust temperatures that, depending on how hard you are running it, can get pretty hot. You used the EBay headers, didn't you? ;) the Stillen ones have no issues, but they cost $600 (worthless,) versus the $100 EBay set. I also did those on my Z32, and yeah, the EGR tube is a bitch to run back into the slot (took me an hour with a big ass prybar.) If you are running the car with an open EGR, you need to: 1.) Delete the EGR altogether, or 2.) Man up and plug that bad boy, unless you're loving the health issue with running it that way.

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I delete the EGR. system on every car I get.

Luckily we have no emision testings.

Never understood how pumping spent exhaust back into an engine could posibly be good for it.

I mean... We spend alot of time and money on our air filtration systems just to turn around and pump a big piece of carbon right back in.

Dump the whole thing. While your at it. If you havn't yet. drop the air pump and gut the cats too.

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I delete the EGR. system on every car I get.

Luckily we have no emision testings.

Never understood how pumping spent exhaust back into an engine could posibly be good for it.

I mean... We spend alot of time and money on our air filtration systems just to turn around and pump a big piece of carbon right back in.

Dump the whole thing. While your at it. If you havn't yet. drop the air pump and gut the cats too.

 

I didn't understand it for a long time either.

 

The EGR helps as already mentioned to keep overall temps down, the temp of the engine, the temp of the exhaust, etc. What benefit does that have? It has the ability to reduce pre-det, reduce emmisions and make the engine overall more effciient in part throttle condistions, where it does it's work. At WOT the EGR will close or "shut off", due to low or no vacuum, so it doesn't hurt performance or WOT performance in the slightest.

 

Although your engine probably won't have a catastrophic failure due to a lack of EGR, it would be a good idea to keep it in the system however.

 

"The EGR recylces unburnt exhaust into the intake"

 

This is false, the EGR has NO ability to channel only unburnt fuel or unused oxygen back into the intake, it is simply a valve that samples a small amount of what ever is being sent down the exhaust pipe. Also the exhaust is all "burnt" exhaust gases are inert and will not burn. only fuel (using the general term of fuel not specifically gasoline) will burn, as long as there is also enough oxygen particles present.

 

This inability to burn what is coming through the EGR helps fill the cylinders, more than would be with no EGR, make the engine more gas pump friendly. It all gets pretty involved, but is worth it IMO to keep the EGR, I will be on mine and when the next engine goes, and the engine after that, etc. the only way the EGR will ever be removed is if the engine I'm installing didn't have one or has not place for one, some late '90s Fords were this way, and have been told a few other manufuacturers did similar.

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I have always removed mine with no harm to the engine. The biggest difference Ive noticed is after removal you dont have all the black oily crude building up in the intake.....residue from the exhaust gas.

 

And it does not help to fills the cylinders. Thats not correct. Without it the cylinders would fill just fine!

 

It is an "emission control method that involves recirculating exhaust gases from an engine back into the intake and combustion chambers. This lowers combustion temperatures and reduces NOx."

 

So if your not interested in reducing NOx...dont worry about it. Just tune it out.

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I have always removed mine with no harm to the engine. The biggest difference Ive noticed is after removal you dont have all the black oily crude building up in the intake.....residue from the exhaust gas.

 

And it does not help to fills the cylinders. Thats not correct. Without it the cylinders would fill just fine!

 

It is an "emission control method that involves recirculating exhaust gases from an engine back into the intake and combustion chambers. This lowers combustion temperatures and reduces NOx."

 

So if your not interested in reducing NOx...dont worry about it. Just tune it out.

 

 

Yes, cylinders fill fine without the EGR, at WOT, where they can fill. at anything less the cylinders do not fill completly, hence the lower power out put, what happens though is hot spots within the cylinder, due to wider space between the oxygen molecules or less fill, as it were, the exhaust recirulated into the engine via the EGR allows these hot spots to be filled with an inert gas, creating no extra power, but allowing the combustion chamber temps to kept in check, lowering running temps and subsequant exhaust temps.

 

Sometimes it's not possible or esy to tune for lower NOx, hence the introduction of the EGR. If it were that simple the OEM would simply due away with it all together. Less parts = cheaper to manufacture = more profit.

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As a side note six shooter.....Brantford Ont?

 

Yep.

 

And tuning for no EGR depending on the system can be easy or rather difficult. I have been thinking about looking into the systems that these cars (namely the S30) use for an ECM and what it would take to tune them, I have equipment to tune GM ECMs, and programs that will tune the bin files for others such as Ford, and few other less defined ECMs.

From research the foriegn ECMs seem to be less documented and more difficult to manipulate, this is probably due to the lack of people's desire to use the OEM ECMs, since something like MegaSquirt, FAST, AEM, BS3, etc are available and some even offer a PnP option, so it only makes sense to move to something easy, even if it doesn't offer all the advantages that an OEM ECM would, such as emmisions controls, OBDII compliance, in some ECMs, such as GM, a lean cruise mode, that saves fuel if the throttle and other paranmeters stay at a constand for a longer period of time. Another safety built into some OEM ECMs is the ability to enrichen the fuel based on time. I have read that there was a caddilac ECM, used with the N* I believe, that would richen the fuel mixture after being at WOT for more than 30 or 45 seconds, as the cylinders would then become overheated and melt pistons. This is something I have not seen in an aftermarket, not saying they don't but haven't seen it defined as an availble option or parameter, though I do recall long ago that Haltech was looking at including such a thing is certain models. Unfortunatly I haven't looked into Haltech in a long after figuring out that a GM ECM would probably do everything I need it to do and more.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I make it a goal to try and answer a question (correctly) for every question I ask. :) Too bad guys like BRAAP are the geniuses, and if they had time, I'm sure they'd answer every question, so it's up to everyone to help everyone else out, if possible. :)

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