PhilbertZ Posted January 12, 2008 Share Posted January 12, 2008 Guys, I just picked it up and the clutch reservoir was very low when I began my drive home to the Bay Area (dumb idea). Long story short, by the end of my 450 mile journey the clutch got spongy and the resistance (when you rest your foot lightly on it - not to depress the clutch - just to rest it there) was minimal - the pedal travels pretty far now (about 4-6 inches) before reaching the point where it shows resistance (what a normal clutch would feel like when you put your foot lightly on it). SOOOOO....I've concluded that I need to, at the very least put in some more new brake fluid (DOT 3), and bleed the clutch. I did this last night, following the instructions from the official car's tech manual that came with it (about an inch thick). This was my first clutch bleed. It took quite a while (we did about 20 sessions of 5 pumps/hold/bleed). The tech manual said to, after you hold the pedal in and bleed our some fluid/air (then close the bleeder), to let your foot off the clutch and "slowly let the pedal return to its normal position". Well, that didn't happen. We waited up to 4 or 5 minutes and nothing. So, my partner gently tugged on the pedal and it sprang back into position. We then commenced again. My question is: 1) is it OK to manually tug the pedal a little to get it to return back to its normal position, before commencing again? 2) does it take more than 20 times? The air bubbles were gone but there is still about an inch of travel or softness on the clutch.... This is my first bleed in a Datsun but also my first bleed in any car, so I'm trying to learn as much as i can. Any input would be appreciated - thanks in advance! Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilbertZ Posted January 12, 2008 Author Share Posted January 12, 2008 wow I can't spell...sorry guys Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nbesheer Posted January 12, 2008 Share Posted January 12, 2008 You've done it the same way I have. But the pedal was still soft for me and It got so bad that I needed to double clutch (?). Anyways I just purchased a new master and slave cylinder at MSA (http://www.zcarparts.com) and the total was like $70.00 for brand new OEM Tokico parts so that is what I would do, and while you are down there you might want to replace the clutch line with a new one. MSA also sells stainless steel clutch lines. Have fun with your new Z Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest pachuco Posted January 14, 2008 Share Posted January 14, 2008 sounds like you have a leak. either your master took a crap or your slave is shot. check for fluid inside the car where the pedal attaches. my master started leaking fluid into the car it sucked and ruined my floormat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilbertZ Posted January 14, 2008 Author Share Posted January 14, 2008 thanks guys. I am going to try the pressure bleeder this week and I'll check for leakage in those areas you've recommended. Another Q I have (totally unrelated to clutches): It poured rain here in CA last week and the doors on the car seemed to fill with a couple inches of water (rest of interior is fine and dry) - it just sloshes around in here when I drive or open/close the doors. I'm planning on removing the inner panels this week and sopping it up - anyone experienced this and found a good remedy for it (besides a car cover)? Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nbesheer Posted January 14, 2008 Share Posted January 14, 2008 There should be drain plugs on the bottom of the doors, I know my 510 has them as well as other cars, but i am not sure about the 280ZX Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilbertZ Posted January 15, 2008 Author Share Posted January 15, 2008 Thanks - that's what I am hearing - will check it out tonight. Cheers! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gollum Posted January 15, 2008 Share Posted January 15, 2008 I've run into the same problem, and I think it's due to a poor seal between the glass and the outer rubber. There IS a drain, but it sucks horribly. Nissan saw fit to put a little rubber plug in there that's "supposed" to let it all drain out. We it basically creates a really nice PLUG and just gets in the way, so I just removed mine. It's drained fine since. But I've only had this problem in 2 S130 cars, and this car has quite a gap at the base of the window. It's the only way I could see that much water getting in. (i've had what seemed like a gallon at times) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilbertZ Posted January 16, 2008 Author Share Posted January 16, 2008 ^^^^ lol I took apart the door panel last night and found about 3 inches or more of standing water in the bottom of the door, with tons of sediment. The 2 rubber "drains" were a joke - more like lengthy plugs. They were each about an inch long and had "vents" - I guess the water is supposed to drain out the vents - but with all that sediment built up over the years, there was no contest! I pulled them out (and will likely keep them out now, and drained, and cleaned the door out - airing it out now before I re seal with a garbage bag and put the panel back on. Note to others - if you have this happen, try first just pulling out the 2 black rubber plugs underneath the door - you may save some time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silver280zx Posted January 16, 2008 Share Posted January 16, 2008 Was the slave cylinder or the casing around the slave cylinder wet or gunky? How bout around the master cylinder? It could be a seal. if so i got a slave cylinder for like 8 bucks at autozone with a lifetime warrenty. Its prolly worth replaceing anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilbertZ Posted January 17, 2008 Author Share Posted January 17, 2008 I did it tonight - got it up on stands and pressure bled the clutch system. The slave was bone dry - no leaks. Master it's hard to tell since there's been fluid spilled there over the years - but it seems good right now - I'll have to check over time to see if the fluid level goes down in the master cylinder. Thanks for all your tips guys! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clashez Posted May 8, 2013 Share Posted May 8, 2013 Bumping An old thread but does anybody know where the actual bleeder screw is at for the clutch Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Domzs Posted May 8, 2013 Share Posted May 8, 2013 Bumping An old thread but does anybody know where the actual bleeder screw is at for the clutch On the slave cylinder . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clashez Posted May 8, 2013 Share Posted May 8, 2013 Were the cylinders sleeve at? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BluDestiny Posted May 8, 2013 Share Posted May 8, 2013 It should be close to where the rubber line going from the firewall hardline connects to the slave cylinder on the passenger side of the tranny. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Domzs Posted May 8, 2013 Share Posted May 8, 2013 It mounts to your transmission and pushes the clutch fork . Download FSM , dude . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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