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Easiest way to track down a busted rear defrost?


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Title basically says it all. Last night I noticed that my rear defroster doesn't work at all. Switch doesn't light up or anything either (should it?). So what is the easiest/cheapest way to tell what part of the setup is busted? Considering the amount of driving I do in this weather (humid, rain, cold, etc), I kind of need it to work...

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im pretty sure the light on the switch will still come on, yes.

 

If you are curious, you can check across the two tabs that come off the glass for continuity. There should be a medium-to-low resistance reading between the two terminals, just like a light bulb.

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....must be on the same circuit as the clock.....

 

:lmao:

 

:lmao:

 

I actually kinda need it though. Sure, rolling the window down defrosts it pretty well, but while the engine is warming up so that it can idle, it would be nice to get it going. Also, rain + open window = not so good.

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:lmao:

 

I actually kinda need it though. Sure, rolling the window down defrosts it pretty well, but while the engine is warming up so that it can idle, it would be nice to get it going. Also, rain + open window = not so good.

 

yer preachin to the choir on that one, brother.....

 

 

I drove my 75 around for five years in Florida with not only a busted rear defrost, but no functioning ventilation so nothing to blow on the foggy windshield either.. AND the driver window had no regulator mechanism (just a chunk of 2x4 I held it up with when it was parked in the rain, parked and "locked," or when the monsoon was driving the rain directly into my window!)

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Worse comes to worse, there's a manufacture thats been discussed here and on zcar.com that sells the elements based on you window size.

 

You clean the window and then roll on the whole new heating element. I think their largest kit still wasn't big enough and it was like +$200.

 

The other thing that I've seen is a heating element and a fan that stick you your rear window. You supply 12v and it blows hot air at it to defrost it.

Mario

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lol it doesn't get cold enough in AZ to need the defroster. It wouldn't help much for me, I don't have a heater in my car. the heater core has been bypassed. It probably formed a leak or something many many many years ago. I don't care though. It never gets cold enough for me to worry about that, and i won't be driving my car in the rain much either (i hate rain, luckily, we don't get much of that in arizona)

 

Guess when I get my car back from the shop i'll run some tests on the defroster

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lol it doesn't get cold enough in AZ to need the defroster. It wouldn't help much for me, I don't have a heater in my car. the heater core has been bypassed. It probably formed a leak or something many many many years ago. I don't care though. It never gets cold enough for me to worry about that, and i won't be driving my car in the rain much either (i hate rain, luckily, we don't get much of that in arizona)

 

Guess when I get my car back from the shop i'll run some tests on the defroster

 

Yah....I'm going to be DDing my Z in everything from 120 ambient air temp down to (hopefully not) as low as say....10 degrees.

 

Going to be interesting.

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yah. the Z isn't actually all that bad, small interior means that body heat and the engine through the firewall heats it up decently fast.

 

The biggest problem with the weather is getting the engine to warm up to the point that the engine can actually idle, though the weather has changed enough that it isn't as much of a problem right now.

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  • 1 month later...

My rear defrost isn't working either, and i'm gonna be testing it soon with a meter to check for breaks.

 

I was kinda wondering if there's some conductive spray I could spray over the lines to give them new life. Seems like it'd be easy if I could just find something to spray thats conductive. Something tells me that copper gasket stuff isn't really copper...

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