aziza z Posted January 29, 2008 Share Posted January 29, 2008 so heres the deal. I just got my wiring harness reworked from speartech (which is a complete waste of money btw), everything is connected according to their instructions, but the car wont start. it wont even turn over. i think i may have hooked up the starter wrong but idk. ive been messing with it for over two days!!!!! When i switch the ignition all i hear is a click, but nothing else. there are three prongs that come off the starter. One small one at the top and two at the bottom. i have it hooked up as (purple small wire) to the top small prong and battery cable on the prong on the bottom farthest from the driver. please help. i am really frustrated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ktm Posted January 29, 2008 Share Posted January 29, 2008 Matt, drop me a line tomorrow at 714-415-8249 if you can't get it fired up tonight. I'll swing by after work if you'd like. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest TeamNissan Posted January 29, 2008 Share Posted January 29, 2008 Def sounds like a starter prob to me. You try running power direct? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aziza z Posted January 29, 2008 Author Share Posted January 29, 2008 Def sounds like a starter prob to me. You try running power direct? sorry, im not sure what u mean by "power direct". i suck at electrical Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ktm Posted January 29, 2008 Share Posted January 29, 2008 I'll be bringing over my multi-meter and remote starter tomorrow after work. Sounds like either a battery (silly stupid - caught me twice), wiring or starter issue. Edit: He means what we discussed about the remote starter. You wire up the battery positive to the starter terminal, best to do with a remote starter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EvilC Posted January 29, 2008 Share Posted January 29, 2008 Few things, make sure the PCM is getting power while "cranking" or "turning over" the engine. You case sounds pretty close to the problem I had. If the PCM is not getting its 12v then motor will not kick. I would start at your starter, making sure everything is grounded. Then check the injectors to make sure they are pulsating. Then trace your ignition and PCM.....or it could be the battery! My first new battery only last 2 days in the Z. Hope this helps. Good luck...I have been waiting for your Z!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m1noel Posted January 29, 2008 Share Posted January 29, 2008 Make sure the wires at the ignition switch are plugged in correctly. It is possible to plug it in upside down, and that doesn't seem to work. (It happened to me) Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VinhZXT Posted January 29, 2008 Share Posted January 29, 2008 You need to have a big red cable going directly from the + side of the battery to the post on the starter with the 9/16 nut. This is the main power to turn the starter. The purple wire is the power to kick the selenoid to engage the starter to the fly wheel. You also need a big ground cable going from the negative side of the battery to the block/head. If you hooked everything mentioned above then there could be 2 things: 1. Your battery is weak or 2. Your starter is dead. GL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aziza z Posted January 29, 2008 Author Share Posted January 29, 2008 You need to have a big red cable going directly from the + side of the battery to the post on the starter with the 9/16 nut. This is the main power to turn the starter. The purple wire is the power to kick the selenoid to engage the starter to the fly wheel. You also need a big ground cable going from the negative side of the battery to the block/head. If you hooked everything mentioned above then there could be 2 things: 1. Your battery is weak or 2. Your starter is dead. GL the purple wire goes to the small post on top right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aziza z Posted January 29, 2008 Author Share Posted January 29, 2008 cool. i think one of the bolts was just loose cause when i started it now it trys to start but wont idle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VinhZXT Posted January 29, 2008 Share Posted January 29, 2008 I just got my wiring harness reworked from speartech (which is a complete waste of money btw). This is what I've been trying to tell everyone on this forum not to do. All they do is remove a few unused wires and hook up relays, ODBII port and the idiot light and label all the wires. Does the car runs for 2 seconds and shuts off? If so have you disable the VATs? PS. Let me know ahead before you burn it. lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dlouis7 Posted January 30, 2008 Share Posted January 30, 2008 vinhZXT, do you have any recomendations on what to do about that ODBII connector? it would come in handy. do you have yours connected? and if so how did you do it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EvilC Posted January 30, 2008 Share Posted January 30, 2008 This is what I've been trying to tell everyone on this forum not to do. All they do is remove a few unused wires and hook up relays, ODBII port and the idiot light and label all the wires. Does the car runs for 2 seconds and shuts off? If so have you disable the VATs? PS. Let me know ahead before you burn it. lol If you want an easy plug up harness then you have to pay like I did. If you know somone or is like Vinh, it is the biggest waste of money in the swap. Hmmm....I bought it and Vihn helped me....haha!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VinhZXT Posted January 30, 2008 Share Posted January 30, 2008 You can get an ODBII plug from any late model GM cars in a junk yard. It's dirt cheap and it requires 4 wires to hook it up. Ground, Battery, Ignition and the serial wire to the PCM. Yes I have it hooked up on both of my LS1 Z swap. If you want to read info or reprogram the PCM you will need the ODBII plug. GL V. Clive, You are just lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slammed68 Posted January 30, 2008 Share Posted January 30, 2008 I bought the one off eBay so help me god it is the greatest cheap thing I have ever bought!!! Good construction, everything fits the way I wanted it to, and it was labeled extremely well. Yeha I know I know I havent started the car yet, but I needed some specifics and he got it to me the right way.. Sounded like your 1st problem lied within your Start/Run wires that go into the ignition, and your second problem lies within either a vacuum line unhooked or MAF is junk. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aziza z Posted January 30, 2008 Author Share Posted January 30, 2008 This is what I've been trying to tell everyone on this forum not to do. All they do is remove a few unused wires and hook up relays, ODBII port and the idiot light and label all the wires. Does the car runs for 2 seconds and shuts off? If so have you disable the VATs? PS. Let me know ahead before you burn it. lol ur amazing vinh, u really know these cars haha. its doing exactally that. i need to reprogram the ecu before doing anything else. (i also had two front o2 sensors removed). I really dont feel like sending out the ecu to be programed at speartech for $300. For that cost i could get my own programmer. which program do you guys recomend thought? I need a program that will do the following things: Disable the anti-theft VATs Disable EGR, A.I.R., evap system, post-cat oxygen sensors blah blah blah systems and other emissions equipment Lower the cooling fan turn on temperature. Raising the rev limiter etc etc etc.... any recommendations? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aziza z Posted January 30, 2008 Author Share Posted January 30, 2008 oh and btw i wanted to let u guys know that hybridz is pretty much the greatest thing on earth, with awesome people who know they;re stuff. i appreciate the knowledge its given me at my age. oh yea and ktm was awesome for coming to try and help me out. AWESOME CAR MAN!!!!! i don't want to burn my car anymore. but im still pissed off at her haha. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aziza z Posted January 30, 2008 Author Share Posted January 30, 2008 anyone use these? http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=DBL%2DU7198&N=700+4294908395+4294906189+4294908216+4294840140+4294782477+115&autoview=sku doesn't mention anything about removing o2 sensors thou. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VinhZXT Posted January 30, 2008 Share Posted January 30, 2008 I have EFI Live software and I can reprogram the PCM. There is a small problem. Each Pcm will require 1 license and I don't have any more licenses. Each license will cost $100. I can do it for you guys but this will cost $110 for each PCM (10 for shipping it back to you ). I can program what ever you want in the PCM. Here is another option. Jesse at Wait4mePerformance can reprogram to disable the VATs, disable DTCs, change temp setting etc... for $40 + 10 shipping charge back to you. The problem is it's a one time deal. If you guys want to use the autometer speedometer and tach then you don't need to worry about messing with the gear ratios in the PCM. If you want to use the stock speedometer and want to go JCI's route you can actually play with the gear ratio and tire size in the PCM to give you the correct speedometer reading. Vinh Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aziza z Posted January 30, 2008 Author Share Posted January 30, 2008 just got off the phone with him told me it would be $75 +10 for shipping to do all that stuff and a performance tune. not bad. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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