Clifton Posted February 29, 2008 Share Posted February 29, 2008 Sounds like an alternator but even without one and a good battery it should run longer than 7 minutes. Do you have a voltmeter (multimeter)? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cockerstar Posted March 1, 2008 Author Share Posted March 1, 2008 Sadly, I don't have a voltmeter. I need to get one though because I've needed one a few times before. What should I check after I get one? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clifton Posted March 1, 2008 Share Posted March 1, 2008 Sadly, I don't have a voltmeter. I need to get one though because I've needed one a few times before. What should I check after I get one? HF usually has cheap DVM's for around $5. Cheap the voltage at the battery or straight off the alternator. Check it before you start it, when it's running and with the lights on. Even with all the acc on it shouldn't go below 12v. Rev it to 2k and check it also. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
therustedgauge Posted March 1, 2008 Share Posted March 1, 2008 could be an alternator problem; i have the slave cylinder issue too. If i don't start it and ride it twice a week it'll have a puddle near the tire of brake fluid and just suck air. . . got brand new one $16 from adv ato prts. no more problems! ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cockerstar Posted March 1, 2008 Author Share Posted March 1, 2008 Borrowing a multimeter from my friend tonight I'll let you guys know what I get. No a/c for me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cockerstar Posted March 2, 2008 Author Share Posted March 2, 2008 Before: 11.9-12.1 Running: 12.0 Lights: 11.5 2k: 11.9 2k w/ lights: 11.5 Sounds like a dead alternator if I ever saw one Turn signals are fine w/ a fresh battery. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woldson Posted March 3, 2008 Share Posted March 3, 2008 Should be alot higher, like 14v, running. Check all connections before alternator change out. The belt is running the alt? Had to ask. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cockerstar Posted March 3, 2008 Author Share Posted March 3, 2008 mmmm the connections looked good, but I think I should go and double check them. I feel like an idiot for not having done that already! I ordered a new alternator from autozone today. $99 with a $20 core so it will be $80 after I take the old one back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woldson Posted March 3, 2008 Share Posted March 3, 2008 I hope this will be your last fix to get her back on the road!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cockerstar Posted March 3, 2008 Author Share Posted March 3, 2008 Oh, I sure hope so too! New PS lines are in store, but I'm okay driving her without for a little while. To make things street legal I need a registration though I got a chance to actually get under her and look and the rust of a lot worse that I was expecting it to be. I knew there was some, but it's way more that I anticipated I have a full turbo set up for her, but I'm having second thoughts now after seeing the actual shape of the body. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woldson Posted March 3, 2008 Share Posted March 3, 2008 Have you ever checked Mull? "No rust" It is an very funny and well done restroration of his Z. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cockerstar Posted March 6, 2008 Author Share Posted March 6, 2008 I'm pretty sure that I have seen mull's car He did an amazing job and that car should have been scrapped form the get go! If I'm going to do anything extensive I think I might pick up an s30 or another s130 from california/arizona. Used some electrical contact cleaner on the connections and found out that one of the wire connectors had rust off! Doh! I went to take the nut off of the bolt to pull of the half of a connector that was on it and the whole thing snapped clean off with minimal force. I need to get a soldering gun and then I'll just be soldering the cleaned up contacts back together. All I have is a iron right now and that definitely won't cut it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silver280zx Posted March 11, 2008 Share Posted March 11, 2008 Bled out the lines and now everything is running great as far as the clutch goes At first it was just a solid jet of air! Now I think I'm being killed by the notorious electrical problems s130's are known for. The car starts right up on a jump, but after about a second and a half after the cables are removed she dies. With a fresh battery out of my accord she runs for about ~7 minutes. Consistent with a shot alternator? Also, my right turn signal is always on now :S I'm thinking that it is a side effect from low voltage making it to the system? Check the ignition/accessory relay Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cockerstar Posted March 12, 2008 Author Share Posted March 12, 2008 Well, she runs strong with a fresh battery for awhile so I'm thinking that it's just low power. I still haven't got a chance to solder a new connector on and then solder that connection to the post! Way too much school stuff recently >.< Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silver280zx Posted March 13, 2008 Share Posted March 13, 2008 Well, she runs strong with a fresh battery for awhile so I'm thinking that it's just low power.I still haven't got a chance to solder a new connector on and then solder that connection to the post! Way too much school stuff recently >.< I feel ya bro, i still havent gotten around to body work, because of school and work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cockerstar Posted March 13, 2008 Author Share Posted March 13, 2008 It's really a bitch when you are getting 3-5 hours of sleep for a week straight because you're up doing school work and then you get sick from it. Body work is still down the line for me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cockerstar Posted March 17, 2008 Author Share Posted March 17, 2008 So, got the alternator unbolted and everything today, but now it is stuck where it's at on top of some suspension piece. I think it's the stabilizer bar, but I could be wrong. When I went to unbolt the last wire, the bat, that whole bolt snapped off to! I think I'll probably end up replacing the whole unit if I can't get those studs out and get them replaced with something else. Shouldn't it just pull out? My power steering lines are in the way >.< Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woldson Posted March 17, 2008 Share Posted March 17, 2008 I've done this alot. Just remove the power steering pump hoses. Have a catch can handy. The pump has no problem evacuating its own air bubbles. Add, of course, new fuild. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cockerstar Posted March 19, 2008 Author Share Posted March 19, 2008 Glad to hear that I'm not just being a complete retard I think it's a sign that I need to replace the lines. They're leaky! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
280zx 2by2 Posted March 21, 2008 Share Posted March 21, 2008 i think it looks like you have a 10th aneverary drivers side door, that could be worth some money! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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