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280zx brake options.


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My 82na with stock breaks would fade to nothing after a shot to appox 120/130 back to about 75mph. This was a hard breaking event. I mean there was almost nothing after I took my foot off the break and applied them again. Kinda scary, was not expecting that.

Just adding this tidbit if you care.

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I see you are trying to sell something. That changes things a bit.:lol:

 

For under $800 you can buy a setup that has little or no chance of properly balancing with the rear until you buy another $800 rear kit.

 

No I'm not trying to sell anything. I'm providing a source for him to see what products I offer as asked. I would hate for this individual to not see what neato other options there are to offer.

 

Thanks Juan

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My 82na with stock breaks would fade to nothing after a shot to appox 120/130 back to about 75mph. This was a hard breaking event. I mean there was almost nothing after I took my foot off the break and applied them again. Kinda scary, was not expecting that.

Just adding this tidbit if you care.

 

There was decidedly something not right with your break system. New fluids and different pads would prob'ly do it.

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For under $800 you can buy a setup that has little or no chance of properly balancing with the rear until you buy another $800 rear kit.

 

I disagree. I think if you plan out your brake swap to use a Wilwood caliper in front and a stock caliper in the rear it can be set up to have perfectly fine balance. You just need to think it out before hand. Order smaller pistons for the front instead for the monster 1.75" setup.

 

I ended up ordering the 1.75" setup and was planning on running the 240sx rear. I ran some math and it didn't look great so I decided to go with the Wilwood rears as well. Fact of the matter though is that I do not regret this as I like Z goodies. That being said, not everyone is the same... so read the first paragraph if you don't want to end up like I did. :)

 

After considering brake weight, rotor and pad cost as well as availability, and naturally the added anti-fade capacity - I would definitely have to say the extra money was well spent.

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  • 4 weeks later...
So if you did the Wilwood up front and had the stock set up in the back, Do you have to add a proportioning valve? (on a ZX)

 

 

This is what I wrote when I was thinking about the Wilwood front and 240sx (probably similar to 280zx) rear. Make sure to read the last post as well.

 

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=128619&highlight=proportioning

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Could someone post some more info on options from later Z-cars (Z31 and 32)?

 

Whats involved in the Z32 front caliper conversion?

 

Dude, you have every major manufacturer and high end brake company offering kits for the z31/z32, your options are limitless....

 

As far as whats involved in a caliper conversion on a z31/z32, just unbolt the current setup and bolt on the new....easy:D

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I prefer OE calipers, is my point

 

Ok so from what I can tell the easiest that could get it is simply redrilling the stock rotors for 4x114.3 and bolting them on?

 

So the Z32 TT brakes bolt up?

280zx lines work?

 

Will they fit under my swastikas?

 

Sorry but I have looked and found 0 info, probably because its so simple I guess.

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With a Holset HY35, and with me living relatively close to NHMS, there might be some point to it, no?

 

Apparently Im bad at searching; but I think perhaps this thread should be stickied along side the S30 brake options thread, with the info consolidated here.

 

Just a thought,

Thanks!

 

 

--- Good one: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=111474

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280z Turbo is making a lot of good points here. A properly functioning brake system, with fresh fluid should be able to do several hard stops without any major fading. For a budget-friendly upgrade, try bumping up to a more aggressive brake pad in the front (Hawk, Carbotech, lots of options out there) and moving up to a higher-temp fluid with some ducting to the rotors to help with cooling. I don't know what's out there for rotors, but a larger rotor is nothing more than a bigger heat sink, so I don't think it's really not necessary unless you're experience fading issues. I'd be willing to bet that if you do these simple fixes, your car will out-stop the FC on stock pads (the FC is a lot lighter, so it'll be close).

 

Beyond this you're getting more expensive and harder mods, but why spend the extra $$ when you can get 90% of the performance with less than 1/4 of the price. Not to mention you won't be screwing with the brake balance toooo much (you can do the calculations to figure out the difference...).

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