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280zx audio help


rayamajhia

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I am trying to replace factory radio to simple jvc cd player on my 280zx but i am not connecting to correct wire. I need to connect to power, ignition, and ground. the factory wire is cut off. I don't know what color is what in 280zx 1980 model car.

 

if anybody know what color they are, i would really appreciate.

or

if you have link that have those information that would be great.

 

thanks in advance.

 

ray

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Go to Oreilly's ( Sorry im biased :wink:) or Autzone or whatever...

 

And they sell a circuit tester, it looks like a screwdriver but it has a light built in. What you do is ground the wire attached to it, and touch the tip of the "screwdriver" against a wire, if there's power the screwdriver will light up. That's what i did anyway!

 

Hope that helps

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Thank you so much for the answer guys.

 

But still i don't know what color would be ground ? I am looking for a black wire but the stock audio wire don't have any black wires. may be i should take a picture and post here.

 

thanks ray

Go buy a cheap electrical tester it will have a voltage dc and ohms tester touch bare metal if you can or a screw in the dash (with the black lead)set the tester to 12 volts run the wires until you find one that has power with the key off. Mark it with a label as power. Flip the key on run the wires again now there should be another live Mark it as switched power.Then switch the tester to ohms run the wires left over not the ones marked it will show ohms when it is on the ground(continuity) mark that one ground. If this doesnt help you you might want to take the car to a installer and have them put it in.

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Be sure to turn the headlight/parking lights on when verifying the ground. Sometimes the dimmer wire for the factory radio light will show a ground until the headlights are turned on. You can always ground the radio directly to the chasis, make sure it is grounded to bare metal.

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Be sure to turn the headlight/parking lights on when verifying the ground. Sometimes the dimmer wire for the factory radio light will show a ground until the headlights are turned on. You can always ground the radio directly to the chasis, make sure it is grounded to bare metal.

forgot to mention that

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I just started from scratch on mine.

 

I attached a new constant 12V to the battery terminal.

 

Found an existing chassis ground and added another ring terminal to it.

 

The grounded the negative end of my multimeter, and began unplugging connectors one at a time under the dash. I'd test each pin for 12 volts with the key, and accessory, and then off, to see which wire to take the accessory signal from. I then T'd off a wire into it.

 

And let me add, I know very little about wiring, and I didn't find this job too difficult.

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Bigger power draw. I would run a at least a 12awg stranded wire from battery. FUSE AT THE BATTERY! Add a second wire for an amp later to save yourself some trouble.

The new lead will be able to let you turn on the stereo with out turning on ignition.

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Thanks so much guys. I really appreciate you guys help. I have installed it and it is working on my old spearker just fine and even better sound. I will take a picture and put it out here on what I have done.

 

Also I kept the old antenna up and down switch and it still works.

 

I would never change old radio but it was not working properly and the signal went off every couple of minutes and very rough sound.

 

But i am happy with my new radio (jvc car cd with remote and mp3 player with bluetooth.)

 

thanks again guys.

 

ray 280zx 1980 non turbo. (very fun to drive)

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Bigger power draw. I would run a at least a 12awg stranded wire from battery. FUSE AT THE BATTERY! Add a second wire for an amp later to save yourself some trouble.

The new lead will be able to let you turn on the stereo with out turning on ignition.

 

The head unit does not need to have a direct connection to the battery. If the radio was conected directly to the battery, it would have a constant 12 volt source, that's great if you never intend on turning the stereo off. (Party on!) You would then need a switch other than the ignition switch, directly wired or signaling a relay. The constant 12 volt (yellow wire) memory retention (clock and presets) has such a minute draw, direct to the battery for this is futile. Even if your head unit says "1000" watts X 4 (total bullshit) the factory supplied switched 12 volt wire is more than ample.

Using a outboard amplifier is a absolute different story.

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Your right ArnZ. The draw I was talking about was just for a more powerful head unit. I did not want to get into the constant memory wire cuse some like to use it for constance power, which it is not designed for, minus memory.

I put my head unit and amp on a swich next to my head unit since there was so much room. Your info was more correct than mine, I was just leading him to something he might benifit from later and not have to redo.

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Again a head unit's internal power amplifier will never draw enough power to justify a direct connection to the battery. Any true audio system will never utilize the internal amp for anything, compare proclaimed head unit output power to a outboard USA amp (or almost any) , go figure how said head unit power is compacted into the limited real estate of a AM/FM/CD Player. That is why a good 4X50 amp is not cheap.

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Again a head unit's internal power amplifier will never draw enough power to justify a direct connection to the battery. Any true audio system will never utilize the internal amp for anything, compare proclaimed head unit output power to a outboard USA amp (or almost any) , go figure how said head unit power is compacted into the limited real estate of a AM/FM/CD Player. That is why a good 4X50 amp is not cheap.

hell most head units come with around a 5 amp fuse built in them they are nothing as far as a load.

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