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Wheel spacer studs with safty pins?


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I Already did this. I drilled 1 hole in 2 of the studs on each wheel. Im still not sure as of what I can use to secure the nuts from backing off completely, but it is still being thought up. I thought about actually using a very small high grade bolt and nut with some hefty use of green loctite. Ever read the back of the green loctite package? That stuff has to get pretty damn hot to lose effect.

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  • 3 years later...

I was looking at putting spacers on my 300zx I just got with 350z wheels. I found this process on a Jeep forum, just curious how your final results have been:

 

I installed my spacer as follows:

1 - Torque spacer nuts

2 - Mount wheels & torque wheel nuts

3 - Drive 10 miles

4 - Remove wheels & torque spacer nuts

Repeat steps 2 -4 until the spacer nuts don't turn when torqued.

 

I go through this installation procedure every time a spacer is removed for any reason.

 

When I've done it this way I've always had to retorque the spacer nuts at least 2-3 times before the spacer and spacer nuts were fully/properly seated. Sometimes the first round of retorqueing the spacer nuts results in quite a bit of turn before the nut will torque to the proper amount. How would you be able to seat the spacer and nuts properly if all you did was slop some loctite on the studs and torque it down one time without checking them after you've driven the rig a few miles?

 

I recheck the spacer nuts every time a wheel is removed and have not had a loose one yet.

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/loctite-mandatory-wheel-spacers-1198019/

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I was looking at putting spacers on my 300zx I just got with 350z wheels. I found this process on a Jeep forum, just curious how your final results have been:

 

I installed my spacer as follows:

1 - Torque spacer nuts

2 - Mount wheels & torque wheel nuts

3 - Drive 10 miles

4 - Remove wheels & torque spacer nuts

Repeat steps 2 -4 until the spacer nuts don't turn when torqued.

 

I go through this installation procedure every time a spacer is removed for any reason.

 

When I've done it this way I've always had to retorque the spacer nuts at least 2-3 times before the spacer and spacer nuts were fully/properly seated. Sometimes the first round of retorqueing the spacer nuts results in quite a bit of turn before the nut will torque to the proper amount. How would you be able to seat the spacer and nuts properly if all you did was slop some loctite on the studs and torque it down one time without checking them after you've driven the rig a few miles?

 

I recheck the spacer nuts every time a wheel is removed and have not had a loose one yet.

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/loctite-mandatory-wheel-spacers-1198019/

 

You do realize this thread is 4 years old right?

 

On another note, why do you think wheel shops (good ones) will not work on cars with wheel adapters. They are not safe and they do not stay torqued right.

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You do realize this thread is 4 years old right?

 

On another note, why do you think wheel shops (good ones) will not work on cars with wheel adapters. They are not safe and they do not stay torqued right.

 

Of course, I can read!

 

I'm just posting information on the same topic, in an existing thread.

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What I would do is drill a hole in the stud and use a grade 8 nut. Torque down the nut and then use either a small cotterpin or a piece of SS wire to act as a stop.

 

A guide like this would help get the holes straight: Lockhart Phillips Metric Bolt Drill Jig

 

It's $23 or you could make your own if you're got a drill press and a tap set. If you made a individual one you could easily spin it onto each stud and drill it on the car.

 

t_22651_01.jpg

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  • 4 weeks later...

 

 

Just re-reading this thread and wanted to point out DO NOT GO TO THIS LINK!!! The picture it links too now tried installing viruses on my computer. Just a heads up for any others reading this thread....

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