Couldn't turn key off

[Bartman]

I went to shut off my car today and the key wouldn't turn off. The key will easily go in and out but it wouldn't turn off. I pulled the battery cable and I eventually was able to get the key to turn off by using some WD40. So what should I do now? I don't want to have this happen again. Do I need to replace the whole ignition switch or is there something else I can do? I have an extra ignition switch, but I can't get the keys to turn in that one either.

[CArFAn]

You think it might be the ignition cylinder instead of the switch? Where the actual key goes into.

[Bartman]

You think it might be the ignition cylinder instead of the switch? Where the actual key goes into.

Yes, it probably is just the cylinder. Is it easy to just replace the cylinder instead of getting a complete switch with the cylinder?

[CArFAn]

It sounds like the key is turning inside of the cylinder, but not making contact with the switch at the bottom. I wish i had pics to show what im talking about.

 

I got my ignition cylinder with 2 keys for 18$. The cylinder that i had in there had already been replaced but they didn't put back any of the holder pins and the little plastic piece that sit on top of everything. I tried to practice on one at the local JY and couldn't get it out to save my life. I have an instruction page that came with my new cylinder i could scan it, but its going to be later tonight when my dad gets off.

 

As for the switch there a 3-4 screws on the back the ignition assembly where the actual switch is. You can pull it out and swap it with one from the JY. If that dosn't do anything it might be in the wiring.

 

Im not an expert and take from this what you want, im just saying how i fixed mine. Hope i helped.

 

-Carfan

[Bartman]

It sounds like the key is turning inside of the cylinder, but not making contact with the switch at the bottom. I wish i had pics to show what im talking about.

 

...

-Carfan

The problem I'm having is getting the key to turn the cylinder. It was stuck in the on position and even though I eventually got it to turn off it's still hard to turn now.

[CArFAn]

My dad should be here in a little while, i will scan and post the instructions on how to remove it. Then you can inspect the cylinder.

[CArFAn]

(since i cant show pictures i suggest remember how everything looks)

 

As written on the paper:

 

Prior to working on any ignition lock always disconnect the negative battery cable as a safety precaution.

 

It is possible to replace the cylinder with the lock assembly is still in the car. However, we recommend it be removed for service. To remove it you must drill out two of the four bolts holding the lock in place. These can be replaced with appropriate size metric allen bolts or shear head bolts from your car dealer.

 

Step 1:

Carefully pry off the end of the lock cylinder. Its a snap fit.

 

Step 2:

The lock cylinder is retained with a steel pin. It is visible in the casting. Remove the plastic buzzer Switch. Then center punch and drill a small hole in the lock cylinder in line with the pin. Pry out the pin with an awl or ice pick. Do not lose it. You will need it to retain the new cylinder. When the pin is out far enough to grab, use a pair of pliers to draw it completely out of the housing

 

Step 3:

Slide the lock cylinder out. BE CAREFUL! Do not lose the spring or other small parts for the safety lever.

 

Step 4:

Assemble the safety lever to the new lock cylinder.

 

Step 5:

Place the tail piece on the end of the plug and slide the completed assembly into the lock housing.

 

Step 6:

Verify that the safety lever spring is positioned correctly before fully seating the cylinder into the housing. Reinstall the cylinder retaining pin.

Install the key reminder alarm switch. Make sure that the buzzer switch reed electrical contact fits into the slot in the plastic "C" shaped actuator. Snap the face cap onto the end of the lock housing; a plastic hammer should be used to prevent the surface of the cap form being damaged.

 

Info comes from "Lockworks" instruction booklet.

[Shift]

could be that the steering locked. Try moving the wheel and see if that helps.

[naviathan]

Just replace the locking cylinder. There's replacement all over the net. FleaBay usually has tons of them.

[Warren]

Dollar to a dime, the problem is a worn out key. Probably NOT a lock problem at all. Have a new key cut to the factory code specs and give it a try. Alot cheaper and easier than replacing anything else.

[Bartman]

CarFan, thanks for the detailed information on removing the cylinder.

 

Warren, it could very well be the key is worn; I'll have to see about getting the codes and trying a new key. Can a locksmith lookup the key code based on the VIN? I read where the code is sometimes in the glovebox, but mine has been replaced.

 

Shift, the steering wheel isn't locked.

[naviathan]

On the Z ignitions I believe the key code is actually stamped on the cylinder body itself. Getting a new key ground from the numbers isn't cheaper then just getting another cylinder, unless of course your doors still use the same key as the ignition, in which case I could see getting new keys just to keep it all the same.

[woldson]

Warren you stole my thunder.

Remember Warren your tumbles may be worn out a bit due to the key being worn. A new key might be ok but eventually you may need a new cylinder.

 

Disregard information on cylinder I've been enlightened;) Thanks Warren!

[Warren]

Bartman,

 

Unfortunately, your car is too old for Nissan (or much of anyone else) to be able to track the key code by VIN. The code, however, should be stamped into the passenger door lock housing itself.

 

The glovebox tags were a good idea, but unfortunately, not permanent enough and were discontinued by Nissan in 1986, however, the code number stamping still exists even in today's vehicles (the ones that even have a passenger door lock that is).

[naviathan]

Ah true. But there's ebay sellers that claim they can do old nissan keys from the numbers still. It's not cheap though.

[Bartman]

So I bought some powdered graphite lubricant and sprayed it into the lock. It turns much smoother now. I don't know if this is a long term solution, but it's working good for now.

[Shift]

So I bought some powdered graphite lubricate and sprayed it into the lock. It turns much smoother now. I don't know if this is a long term solution, but it's working good for now.

I would go and get a new copy of the key made before the "original" gets too worn and does the same thing again.

[Lazeum]

If you get the code, who can cut the key to specs?

Can a regular shop do it or should I go to Nissan dealer?

 

I have a non-working "new" key (which looks thicker than the working key) and a blank key which need some work done.

[Rustyfriend]

if you by any chance need a new cylinder with key, i have more than one lying around my garage

[CerebralSponge]

Something like that happened to my old Camry and AAA came out and sprayed WD-40 in the hole and it was fine. He said they can build up dirt over time and when cleaned again it's fine. I'd try that before replacing anything expensive, just in case, if you haven't already fixed it.