80LS1T Posted May 14, 2008 Author Share Posted May 14, 2008 John C. recomends using a conbo of rubber and poly with the poly on the same side as the nut. I think that's different for the 280ZX / S130 chassi because the tension rod is in front of the control arm(isn't the tension rod behind the control arm on an S30?). I thought I read that rubber bushing should be on the side that sees the most stress under braking, which for an S130 should be the front bushing/same side as the nut. Someone please correct me if I am wrong! I got all my stuff for making my tension rods. I am going to start to make them on thursday when I get my die for the rods from the snap on guy. The die is lifetime warrenty so I can burn it up and just keep getting new ones! LOL HEHEHHEHE! I will have one set for sale after I make mine if all goes well. Not sure on how much I will want for them but I will need a set of cores, so if anyone is interested don't throw away your old ones even if they are broke like mine was! I am going to have to cut a few inches off of the rod anyways so that broken part wont matter. Guy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bjhines Posted May 16, 2008 Share Posted May 16, 2008 I think the poly goes on the compression load side. That would be the FRONT side. S130 or S30 does not matter as long as the harder material goes in front and the rubber dangles in the rear. The article that metions the modifications with the nice drawings looks like it wouldn't work very well. The pattern of holes still leaves a stiff supporting outer rim that will continue to bind and flex the rod's threaded end. There is no reason to use a hard material for the rear bushing. It is only there to allow pivoting motion while keeping a little "preload" on the rod mounting point. You should never bind the nut down tight. It is a locknut and it uses a jam nut in stock configuration. The assembly should be able to move up and down through it's range of motion without a great deal of effort. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
80LS1T Posted May 17, 2008 Author Share Posted May 17, 2008 Well I built the rods yesterday at work. I still have to find some sort of bracket to mount the heim joint to so that I can mount it to the stock location. I found a bracket that would work but I would have to modify it and I would rather just find something that works right out of the box. I am going to do some searching this weekend at the local hardware store to see if I can find anything, if not I'm going to just buy those other brackets. Here's what they look like so far.... One thing I noticed is that the rod end that connects to the lower control arm must have a very very slight bend it in. It was hard to turn the center adjusting rod on it once I got to where I needed it. It was only on one of the rods though, the other side was fine. Maybe my old T/C rod was tweeked? It still adjusts fine just a little stiff on the one side. I'll have to see if it happens on the next set I make I guess? I want to thank Tony C. for his help. I pretty much copied his design. Guy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EMWHYR0HEN Posted May 18, 2008 Share Posted May 18, 2008 Ive seen tha kind of threaded tube before, isn't that for steering arms? what's the wall size? I'm not too familiar with the Z31 front suspension and what kind of loads this peice takes on, but i'd be concerned about running those tubes if they are indeed for steering. Also, since you got rid of the rubber insulator for a heim joint the t/c rod is going to encounter more force than before. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
80LS1T Posted May 18, 2008 Author Share Posted May 18, 2008 This is not for steering or a Z31. I am still going to use the rubber/poly isolator like it was used in stock form. I don't know the diameter of the tubing but I'm sure it will be more than fine. It's not thin. I bought it from a speed shop on line that has them listed under chassi/suspension parts so I really doubt that any loads/forces that these see will hurt them. Guy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aziza z Posted March 10, 2009 Share Posted March 10, 2009 Bringing back this thread: Has any one used Techno Toy Tuning tie rods on an s30 with Johns car LS1 kit? I was looking at the pictures on the control arm and im wondering if theres enough thread on the back side of the rod to fit the motor mount through it still. Has anyone used both the TTT and Johns ls1 kit together is what im asking basically. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
3OLDZEDS Posted July 6, 2014 Share Posted July 6, 2014 hello folks just stuck here after i replaced the front torsion rod bushings and sleeves, went with moog oem rubber , how tight should the nut be that holds the bushings and rod to the front ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted July 6, 2014 Share Posted July 6, 2014 Pretty sure those numbers are in the Front Suspension chapter. I just made mine really tight. The nut clamps down on two washers and a metal sleeve, on a shoulder of the rod, so it's all metal on metal. Use Loctite. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-E Posted July 10, 2014 Share Posted July 10, 2014 I made my own z31 tension rods too, machinist threaded the heads for me once I cut them to length, charged me $20 for the pair Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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