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the start of the B.customs Z has begun..2jz 1000hp


Overkill Z

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Well ok ... im not trying to be an ass BUT really???? your trying to build a 1000HP car but your not willing to drop 500 on some dyno time. I can tell you from experience you will not get 1000Hp tuned on the street. if your lucky you will not blowup your engine. ♥♥♥♥ starts happening real fast once you hit boost and thats just at 500HP you will get one mistake at high boost levels and BANG!!!

 

Take it to a dyno You will save money in the end.

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LOL STONY..... out here 300 bucks is prob 3 hours of dyno time and then you have to pay the tuner 100 bucks an hour on top of that :(

 

 

I have to agree with Stony on this...the dyno cost is a small price to pay considering the scope of this build; the power you are speaking of and the potential for disaster if not done correctly. The old saying comes to mind...you gotta pay to play. Love the project...been following it closely....wont be long now.

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So what are you waiting for?

I can't understand how you can afford to build a 1000hp 2jz and then skimp on tuning!

That is the most important part of a high pressure turbo engine. Doesn't matter what parts you put in the engine if you don't have a good tune you can still kill the engine.

 

Edit: Sorry, I didn't see the above two posts.

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OH i know about that! im not tryn to save money...im trying to FIND someone who is willing to tune my car!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I have called at least 4 tune shops in my area and no one is willing to even try!!! One even told me i should tow it to LA to have a supra tune shop tune it....i mean wtf!

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Well i can feel you there. Most shops don't like to touch others projects. WHY?? If they blow it up, whether it was there fault or not Some people will go after them and expect them to fix it. So instead of taking the chance they dont even bother.

 

OH i know about that! im not tryn to save money...im trying to FIND someone who is willing to tune my car!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I have called at least 4 tune shops in my area and no one is willing to even try!!! One even told me i should tow it to LA to have a supra tune shop tune it....i mean wtf!
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Im aiming for 300HP and Ive got dyno tuned maps from someone with the same engine build and ECU. Maybe you can do something similar, get maps that are from someone with the same build, and drive you car to the dyno. I agree, even with my huge DIY attitude, that 1000HP isnt possible (safely) without a dyno

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Im aiming for 300HP and Ive got dyno tuned maps from someone with the same engine build and ECU. Maybe you can do something similar, get maps that are from someone with the same build, and drive you car to the dyno. I agree, even with my huge DIY attitude, that 1000HP isnt possible (safely) without a dyno

 

on the series one ems you can do that....but i have the new series 2 ems that hasnt been out long enough for them to have "pre-made" maps im probably going to end up towing the damn thing to aem themselves.

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  • 3 weeks later...

It sounds exactly like a standalone car hitting the next load cell that is way too lean. It will act like a brick wall; almost. Does it feel like you can be a hair under the 'limiter' before it breaks up all of the sudden or does it seem like it gets worse and worse over a short span of rpm and then it takes a bit more throttle to push it another hundred or two rpm? If so, it's probably just dead lean in the next cell. That's why the other ECU was different. Different map. What are your AFR's when it's doing this? Did you try fattening it up?

Big fat injectors don't need to be very far off to be dead lean. Make sure you bump fuel by percentages with those fat squirters. I've idled 1200 cc injectors on a 2 liter 4 cylinder with the AEM.

 

Mark

(AEM cert tuner) :wink:

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Not it wouldnt slowly get worse before the rev limit....it would reve just fine until it hits a "brick wall". Right now the car is at WORKS getting run through...i hope they can find something. where are you located?

 

It sounds exactly like a standalone car hitting the next load cell that is way too lean. It will act like a brick wall; almost. Does it feel like you can be a hair under the 'limiter' before it breaks up all of the sudden or does it seem like it gets worse and worse over a short span of rpm and then it takes a bit more throttle to push it another hundred or two rpm? If so, it's probably just dead lean in the next cell. That's why the other ECU was different. Different map. What are your AFR's when it's doing this? Did you try fattening it up?

Big fat injectors don't need to be very far off to be dead lean. Make sure you bump fuel by percentages with those fat squirters. I've idled 1200 cc injectors on a 2 liter 4 cylinder with the AEM.

 

Mark

(AEM cert tuner) :wink:

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Give Dusty Womack a call at MVPMotorsports (texas) or Jay Magher a call at RealStreetPerformance (florida) or possible Justin Nenni at Tuning Concepts (Texas) or John Reed at Portland Speed Industries (Oregon) or Darrin Diacharra at Titan Motorsports (florida) All of them have dealt with the AEM V2 extinsively and even beta tested the AEM V2. they should be able to help you with some long-Distance tuning to be able to get you somewhere, they all also do fly out to you location to tune as well.

 

Off note; Good Choice on the AEM V2. I was able to get one of the first batch to toy around with. the AEM V2 is a great ems, there are some pretty cool new features and the new hardware is leaps and bounds faster and overall better.

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Not it wouldnt slowly get worse before the rev limit....it would reve just fine until it hits a "brick wall". Right now the car is at WORKS getting run through...i hope they can find something. where are you located?

 

Yeah, I'm not referring to the actual rev limiter, but the load cell that is acting that way. Having an untuned map like that, it could be more than just one cell, too. With a datalog and the map, I could probably tell ya and maybe even make an adjustment to push the limiting feature back or eliminate it until you are tuned. I assume you have WBO2 option? You could also expand the authority of the closed loop function and increase the response time, too.

 

I am in Ohio, so email would be the only thing I could help ya with. The previous poster is right, however. A tuner could probably nail it down pretty quick with a copy of the map and some datalogs with some slow, progressive pushes into the breakup area.

 

Mark

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I think that's what everyone has been talking about. you need to, or have someone look at all the cells in the tuning range. you should see nice smooth increases or decreases.

 

For example if under no boost acceleration you see an increase of say 2-3 % then one cell or series of cells suddenly jumps or drops drastically that's what your problem is.

 

I had a similar problem with SDS. Since it was originally setup in okinawa (HOT) once i got to Alaska it would hardly start and run until i looked at the engine temp settings. there was an area that was way off in the lower temp area. once i fixed it it started and ran perfect. This will apply across the board in any engine variable like timing, boost, ect ect. lets set you are starting to make boost at 3500 BUT in the part of the map that adds or takes away fuel in that boost area is way off well again. here's another example. you start making boost at 3500... when you reach that certain boost timing is pulled or advanced 20 degrees well get my drift.

 

If you dropped the car at a competent tuner, that is familiar with the system you put in the car, they should be able to pinpoint the issue pretty quick.

 

 

Good luck

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