NSAgent Posted June 21, 2008 Share Posted June 21, 2008 Im looking at getting a 280z from a guy in FL and I was wanting to know if anyone could give me a rough estimate on how much money I would be speding to fix all the rust issue with this car. --The title of the car is clear, it’s not the original color – currently it’s a flat black, the original color I believe was a dark forest green(?). As far as rust, it’s quite extensive on the passenger side. The passenger frame rail as well as the floor board needs to be replaced, there are a few rust spots as well as rust holes on the hatch, roof and hood. The passenger frame rail, is bent slightly and the passenger fender is bent as well. The doors are in ok condition, they do not lock – but they do close, with a slight “slam.†The dash has a cover, but the original is in terrible condition. Steering wheel would need to be replaced (terrible condition). Seats are in excellent condition(no tears) for it’s age, there isn’t a lot of rust in the interior of the car – except the floorboards. All panels are intact, the headliner is loose. To my knowledge everything works, the car ran fine a year ago. The owner claims, that he’s confident that this car would be able to travel across country. He is a reliable mechanic and would make very sure that this car would reach its destination. Along with this car, come replacement parts; interior (seats…) and exterior (doors, hood…), and an extra motor from a 240z.-- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
73DatsunZ Posted June 21, 2008 Share Posted June 21, 2008 From what I understand, fixing that kind of rust requires a good amount of money. Are you getting the car for super cheap? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NSAgent Posted June 21, 2008 Author Share Posted June 21, 2008 $1000 is the asking price but I would say I could get it down to $700 maybe. The only reason im thinking about it because he say the engine runs strong. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted June 21, 2008 Share Posted June 21, 2008 A very rough estimate of what the car will likely need: Floor pans $1,600 Frame rails $600 Rocker panels $1,200 Hatch holes $500 Roof holes $500 Hood holes $500 Battery tray $500 You're looking at roughly $5,400 to end up with a clean shell. That's what a very good condition 280Z sells for. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naviathan Posted June 21, 2008 Share Posted June 21, 2008 From the description of the car you just gave, I would give him $200-400 and call it even. It's more than he'd get from a scrap yard. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NSAgent Posted June 21, 2008 Author Share Posted June 21, 2008 You're looking at roughly $5,400 to end up with a clean shell. That's what a very good condition 280Z sells for. Very good point. Well looks like I may have to pass this up but on a good note someone else contacted me about a 78 280z 2+2 that has an near perfect body. Thanks for the estimates, really helpful. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rturbo 930 Posted June 21, 2008 Share Posted June 21, 2008 I'd pass on it. It's always cheaper to just find a clean shell to start with, than to buy a rusty shell and fix it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pharaohabq Posted June 24, 2008 Share Posted June 24, 2008 Very good point. Well looks like I may have to pass this up but on a good note someone else contacted me about a 78 280z 2+2 that has an near perfect body. Thanks for the estimates, really helpful. You really should pass that one up and look for a better shell, most have some rust, but there's a lot of southern cars out there that aren't even close to as bad. There's a saying about polishing a turd... look around a bit, I'm sure there's a few more around that are in a lot better shape. For instance I got my 78' 280Z for $400 bucks, w/ barely some paint bubbles. sure that's rust, but it's not even close to through the metal. Of course I'm in NM and rust is a lot less common... Also, think twice about a 2+2, I've found them to be less nimble and frankly less attractive than the coupes... Phar Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NSAgent Posted June 25, 2008 Author Share Posted June 25, 2008 You really should pass that one up and look for a better shell, most have some rust, but there's a lot of southern cars out there that aren't even close to as bad. There's a saying about polishing a turd... look around a bit, I'm sure there's a few more around that are in a lot better shape. For instance I got my 78' 280Z for $400 bucks, w/ barely some paint bubbles. sure that's rust, but it's not even close to through the metal. Of course I'm in NM and rust is a lot less common... Also, think twice about a 2+2, I've found them to be less nimble and frankly less attractive than the coupes... Phar I did think twice. The more I looked at the 2+2 I kept thinking I really want a coupe, so as luck would have it, I found a guy local selling a turbo 280zx coupe t-tops and all!! Im picking it up fri. Thanks for all the advice guys. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MazterDizazter Posted June 26, 2008 Share Posted June 26, 2008 So, I'm going to hijack this thread since his question was answered: my friend and I looked at a fairly decent '73 today, asking price $2k said he'd take $1k... had some rot on the frame toward the rear section of the front wheelwells....is that necessarily safe to fix? I just think it would trash the structural integrity.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m4xwellmurd3r Posted June 26, 2008 Share Posted June 26, 2008 people replace the entire frame rails quite often i believe. so yes, it is safe to fix. the frame rails don't support the entire body, they only strengthen it. the entire body is the frame, so you wouldn't have to worry abut the structural integrity being compromised by replacing the rails. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted June 26, 2008 Share Posted June 26, 2008 That part of the frame rail also takes the loads from braking. It needs to be sound so most likely the frame rails and the structure above the frame rails in the wheel well needs replacing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zedback Posted June 27, 2008 Share Posted June 27, 2008 If there are any rust holes around the edge of the roof they are likely hiding much more substantial rot in the underlying rails. My 1971 240z had small 1/4" holes at each corner of the windscreen and a couple along each side above the rain channel. The attached pics show what lies beneath... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MCAKES Posted August 27, 2009 Share Posted August 27, 2009 Hey guys, I was just searching the board looking for answer to my question and stumbled upon this thread. Would you guys agree that it is easier in the long run to find a nicer Z with minimal rust for 3 or 4 grand as opposed to a complete rusted out junker for $1000? I am about to start looking for a Z and was just curious as to your opinions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rturbo 930 Posted August 27, 2009 Share Posted August 27, 2009 Hey guys, I was just searching the board looking for answer to my question and stumbled upon this thread. Would you guys agree that it is easier in the long run to find a nicer Z with minimal rust for 3 or 4 grand as opposed to a complete rusted out junker for $1000? I am about to start looking for a Z and was just curious as to your opinions. I'd pass on it. It's always cheaper to just find a clean shell to start with, than to buy a rusty shell and fix it. Yes, buying a clean shell for 3-4x the price will be easier AND cheaper in the long run than buying a rust bucket and fixing it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MCAKES Posted August 27, 2009 Share Posted August 27, 2009 Yes, buying a clean shell for 3-4x the price will be easier AND cheaper in the long run than buying a rust bucket and fixing it. finding a decent 240z in Jersey surely isnt easy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rturbo 930 Posted August 27, 2009 Share Posted August 27, 2009 finding a decent 240z in Jersey surely isnt easy No, not at all. Which is why I would recommend spending the extra money to just get a shell from AZ/CA where nearly rust free cars are easily found. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240zBoy Posted August 27, 2009 Share Posted August 27, 2009 Same decision just began for me. I ended up taking the learning experience route but in my situation cheaper. Bought the car in worse condition than what sounds this car was in for $300. CAR-- $300 Purchased MSA Floorpan Kit (Not worth it, make your own) for $315 Misc Metal--- $75 Borrowed friends welder--$100 Electric saw (Jigsaw was taking to long to cut out floorpans)-- $75 Total= $865 (If you take out the saw and made floorpans your self I could have been down around $600-$700) Granted the owner didn't know if the engine ran which I got it to (Ends up having a 280z 5 speed and I can get $200- $400 when I sell that setup right there), but its pretty rough and coming out anyways. All in all I got pretty lucky right there, but I waited a year to find a car for me out here in WA and if you wait long enough the deals pop up. Craigslist FTW. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MCAKES Posted August 27, 2009 Share Posted August 27, 2009 I cant weld or anything like that so, it would obviously cost more to have it done by someone else, but it would be done right. there is a nice Z for sale here in Jersey but he wants 5500 for a car that doesnt even have stock transmission and rear end, so I dont think I want to pay that much for it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240zBoy Posted August 27, 2009 Share Posted August 27, 2009 If you are not going to weld yourself then yes buying a clean shell is much more cost effective. As for that car why don't you ask him what transmission and rear end is in there because many members end up upgrading anyways. Also, it never hurts to send an offer:-D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.