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Drag race Z's anyone else in 9's with indep rear?


Guest Anonymous

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Man thats flying!! Seriously, all kidding aside you need a cage and brakes. Why thats like running around in a rocket powered aluminum can. Think 9 inch rear end might be your answer. icon_biggrin.gif

Mike

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Guest Anonymous

i have stock rear brakes and for the front i have a set of toyota 4 piston calipers on the stock rotors.. When i have the spare cash after the cage and paint are doing im gona stick on a Huge front brake system like the arizona Z car one..

 

so far i have no problems stopping in time to make the turn off at the track icon_wink.gif ..

 

but I need to find a way to put a manual maser cylinder in the car as the thing makes like NOOO vacume..

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Hey 1fstZ...I don't lurk this forum much but I'm glad i did tonight, another TX Z! And a very fast one!!! icon_biggrin.gif

 

Jason from up here in Dallas has hit the 9's this year with the IRS. He has converted his over to coil-overs and can now get more rubber on it. Also, he uses a stiff spring rate to help keep from squatting so bad.

 

A bud of mine (Fisher Racing) did a nice cage for him and built some custom half-shaft loops for safety. I don't think he's in a hurry to do another though...kinda tight working conditions for a big guy icon_wink.gif

 

Jason reports that after (X) amount of runs (I forget the number he gave) that the rearend starts to howl bad as the pin you mentioned starts to fail...then he swaps another third member in.

 

I want to see a match race with you two!!!

 

We need to do a TX Z gathering next spring at a track man...I'll be there. Next season when we start the Ultimate Street Nights up again at the Motorplex would be fun. I do the announcing...

 

I used to street race...still miss it but I think I'll pass.

 

BTW, the quickest car at our last street night at the 'Plex bit the wall after breaking some link or mount or? on his rear end and cutting a slick. He was in excess of 125+mph. He was one of the few(!) cars that were actually NHRA legal for those speeds. Bruised but OK.

 

I can probably get you in touch with Jason if I scrounge for his number...

 

TX HybridZ's UNITE!!!

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Guest Tht1KSguy

yeah i'd go the welded route since you seem to be basically race only i would think it would be ok to live with... then u can spray in 1st and see if you can break a ring & pinion for us icon_biggrin.gif now if only other manufacturers stock rear ends could stand up to 700hp

PS get a cage in that thing man icon_smile.gif are u still running stock brakes too? and i thought i was crazy icon_eek.gif

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Guest Anonymous

ill be sure tos how if you let me know when the event is.. this friday im runing in a street car shoot out here in SA

 

anything goes but must be street legal IE tags inspection and everything all street equipment must work and car must run on street legal tire..

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Holy schmoly,

I take a breather for a few days and look at all the good stuff I miss!

 

I'd really like to post some of your quicker times on the "Datsun 1/4 mile Times Web Page". It's a little site I put together, mostly for people on this board, to see what type of combo gives them which type of performance. Check your e-mail, I'll take this up off line.

 

Secondly, I don't blame you for not hitting the squeeze in first gear. I spent all last summer running 1.60x sixty foot times (even though I only ran low 11's) and I was going through an R200 about every third or fourth time I went out. I probably should have been a little more anal about changing the fluid after every outing, but I was lazy and had many extra R200's in the back '40. All my diff's were open and 3.54 ratio. I never had any problems with wheel spin. The BFG Drag Radials (275/50/R15) always hooked up once they were warmed up.

 

I just read somewhere that you picked up at LSD 3.70 R200 from a 300ZXT. Let us know how this works out. I am a little skeptical about how well these will hold up. Personally, I think a welded R200 is the best choice for street racing. They are cheap and easy to come by. Also, I've been using U jointed half-shafts as well with successful results. I've only busted one shaft before, but I credit that to major squat in the rear suspension. Since then, I've added adjustable coil over with a healthy spring rate.

 

Keep us informed on your success.

 

-Andy

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OK guys!!!!! im hearing alot of guys saying the z IRS r-200 setup good for low to mid 10s. anyone ever tried to just narrow the z setup ie shorten arms and shafts and move the struts in??? kinda like what scottie is doing with the vette rearend. i was kinda thinking it wasnt worth the effort (strength wise) thats why i was going with the solid axle. but woulod becheaper then a full back half.

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Guest Anonymous

if you are running a automatic and no transbrake the rear is almost indestructable in the low 11s..

 

 

its the suden jerk of a transbreak and or a clutch dump that kills it..

 

I would rate the rear end to about 600 foot pounds torque and 600 horse power at the crank realiably.. with a automatic and no trans break ..

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"As Ron Jones was saying about the video of Nozcar, a lot of time is spent squatting instead of forward motion. Would be quicker with a stiffer rear."

 

Quicker how so? Isn't that 'squat time' for the driver to account for in reaction? or does that 'break you out' early? If the squat happens prior to fwd motion, ie. tripping beams then it would be alright? correct? I"m very green on straight lining but curiuos on this point...my stiff rear lights up v. easy compared to hooking with softer rear springs and I'm sure it's due to some changes in my weight transfer and my current minimal squat.

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"... but I credit that to major squat in the rear suspension. Since then, I've added adjustable coil over with a healthy spring rate."

 

Andrew, what rear spring rates did you go to?225 or 250 enough to stop you truly HIPO guys from squatting too far? My TRW"s allowed me to squat 3/4" just putting it in gear (foot on brake, 750idle). 250's now only allow a 3/8's or less I'd guess? I should measure again...was fun last time I did it icon_smile.gif And with max brake stand as well

 

Keep us informed on your success.

 

-Andy[/QB]

 

icon_biggrin.gif

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Ross,

I only run 225 in the back, but I usually adjust the coil overs pretty high in the back. There is quite the rake while sitting still, but during launch it sits pretty flat. I could probably step up to the 250's and not lose any traction with the BFG's. When I launch, I'm only at about 1500 - 1700 on the foot brake. I also roll out about 20 - 30 feet at 80% - 90% throttle before I lay into it (which is when the spray kicks in).

 

As for the truly HIPO guys, after hearing about Mr. San Antonio with his "9 second cage-less Z" icon_wink.gif , I don't feel very special anymore icon_sad.gif

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Guest RON JONES

The Car is not sitting still while its squatting,it is moving foward.It doesn't take much movment to break the beams.This is just an example.I use to have an 80 Malibu with a 468BBC.With the stock Rear suspension the Car use to have alot of "squat"off the line.The fastest I could get the Car to go was 10.0's.With out changing anything,other than puting Ladder Bars on the Car(same tires)and scraping the stock suspension,The Car picked up two tenths and went 9.80's.The Car didn't have the "squat"thing off the line anymore.It took the power that it used to make the Car Squat and used that power to get the Car Down the track quicker.I was amazed at how much of a gain I got.

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Guest RON JONES

I don't know much about IRS.With a straight axle Car,if the Car is squatting,its pulling the rear up,compressing the suspension.In turn,not planting the tires,pulling them from the ground.The only good thing about the "squat",is the weight transfer.With a ladder bar or 4-link Car,the tires and axle are being pushed down,planting the tires to the ground.When the tires are planted and the front end rises,you get Your weight transfer with out the squat.I use to think the squat was a good thing,its not.Like I said I don't know about IRS,but I would think the theory is the same?I understand that the Z cars Hook so well because of the squat,but thats only because of the weight transfer.If You could some how get the tires to plant with out the squat,it would be a lot quicker.Makeing the rear suspension real stiff is not the cure.I'm not sure it can be done with IRS icon_confused.gif

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Guest Anonymous

Wrong ron ..

 

it is weight transfer onto the rear tires there by compressing the rear springs and pushing DOWN in the rear end and tires

 

what you are refering to is call axle twist and happens on ONE SIDE of the vehicle this can be seen when ONE side squats and the other does not.. the pasenger side does not squat as much ..

 

also this is NOT a problem with the z as the ends are permanently mounted via controll arms and the center piece can no TWIST because its independant and solid mounted.. so all squat is caused by the rear pulling the car down there by pressing on the rear tires harder

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Guest RON JONES

Like I said,I don't know anything about IRS.But I know for a fact that both My Ladder bar Malibu and 4-link Z PUSH the ass end of the car up,planting the tires.You can feel and see this when street driving,and You hop on it.During a Launch at the track,You don't see it,but the Car is planting the tires buy pushing up on the rear of the car.The tires don't go up in the wheel well,they stay at the same point,even though the front tires are in the air.Anytime a Car is pulling the rear suspension down,its not planting the tires.If it was planting the tires,it would be pushing the rear suspension up.

 

[ October 03, 2001: Message edited by: RON JONES ]

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