rossman Posted August 10, 2008 Share Posted August 10, 2008 Sure, I have no need for it now. Sending PM. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cygnusx1 Posted August 19, 2008 Author Share Posted August 19, 2008 Stay tuned. I mocked up the 6" trigger wheel from DIY on the Z two-row pulley and measured up for the VR bracket using the AC bracket boss. The VR Bracket is shaping up to be very simple. Here is a rendering of the initial prototype. I will post it with dimensions when complete. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z-ya Posted August 19, 2008 Share Posted August 19, 2008 Stay tuned. I mocked up the 6" trigger wheel from DIY on the Z two-row pulley and measured up for the VR bracket using the AC bracket boss. The VR Bracket is shaping up to be very simple. Here is a rendering of the initial prototype. I will post it with dimensions when complete. Are you using the Ford VR sensor? If so, you may want to make your bracket slotted so that you can adjust the clearance. Your mount looks pretty solid, but remember that at high RPMs it can move around due to vibrations. I watched sparks fly from mine during dyno tuning. I had the sensor about 1mm from the wheel, but at high RPM the bracket deflected just about 1mm. I adjusted the sensor to a 2mm gap, and no more sparks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cygnusx1 Posted August 19, 2008 Author Share Posted August 19, 2008 If I get it right, there will be no adustment in the bracket or the sensor. I am trying to get it "pinned" in the right spot. I am not going to tap the holes for the Ford sensor until I clamp it all up to it's final spot. I will then mark everything and fix it in place with dowels or shoulder screws. Once the sensor is in place, the 36-1 wheel will also be pinned to the front pulley. Being a machine designer, I learned that "no room for adjustment" is better than "room for wrong adjustment". Of course, if I don't get it exactly correct...there is always the hand file! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cygnusx1 Posted August 25, 2008 Author Share Posted August 25, 2008 Well, after many days of trying to string together a few hours here and there, I finally made some progress. What a PITA this was to do. First, the machinist made the bracket I designed, wrong. He was away for the weekend and I didn't want to wait for him so I fixed it, sort of, with a jigsaw. Ever "machine" 6061 aluminum 1.5" thick with a jigsaw? Anyhow it's better than a hacksaw. To locate the sensor, I needed to mount the wheel, BUT to mount the wheel I needed to know where the sensor was going to end up at TDC so I could align the proper tooth of the 36-1 wheel. Catch 22. I mocked up the sensor, then used double sided tape to stick the trigger wheel to the pulley on TDC. I then aligned the correct tooth with the sensor and marked the trigger wheel and pulley. I then clamped the trigger wheel to the pulley, centered it with a caliper and mallet. Scribed a circle where I could tap into some "meat", and drilled and tapped four 10-32 holes. Unfortunately, the timing pulley will not go on the front of the motor with the trigger wheel installed. It hits the back of the e-fan. Solution is to install the bare timing pulley and then screw on the trigger wheel with the 10-32 screws and some locktite. Anyhow....here it is. I still need to get the sensor bracket redone or reworked correctly. The bracket is very close to the A/C belt and the tail of the sensor is very close to the A/C clutch. It really sucks working on my back with my arms in a tight space between the radiator and timing cover with everything visually upside down...However, IT WILL WORK after much tweaking ...or it BETTER WORK! I used the DIY Autotune 6.75" trigger wheel. A smaller wheel would have been much easier because there would be more space for the sensor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nismo280zEd Posted August 25, 2008 Share Posted August 25, 2008 do you have a picture of the pulley with trigger wheel on but not installed on the motor? I'm trying to retain my A/C pulley groove also on my 78 280z and have the same exact wheel. The screws don't go into the V-grove on the balancer? Your using a 280z balancer not a ZX? -Ed (I'm curious if you have a picture down the groves, like from above.) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cygnusx1 Posted August 25, 2008 Author Share Posted August 25, 2008 Yes, sorry forgot that I switched to a 280Z balancer. The screws go into the v-groove flange near the bottom where it's thickest. They dont stick into the belt groove though. The screws were tightened and then I used a hacksaw to cut them flush to the inside of the v-groove. I then took the screws out and filed the ends flat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z-ya Posted August 26, 2008 Share Posted August 26, 2008 Nice work. Did you spin it on a lathe to true it up? Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cygnusx1 Posted August 26, 2008 Author Share Posted August 26, 2008 It is within .003" centered and I figure that is within range of the sensor operating gap and probably won't throw the balance out. Of course, if I had a lathe, I would have done just that. I have another problem though. For some reason, I marked tooth number 6 for TDC but the sensor sits in between tooth 5 and 6 at TDC after all is said and done. That means the base timing will be off by 5 degrees. I can redo the bracket, redrill the mount holes for the tooth wheel, or compensate in Megasquirt with trigger offset. Is it possible to compensate with Trigger Offset? I understand that the timing would still be 5 degrees off in Limp Mode. Thanks, Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Cramer Posted August 26, 2008 Share Posted August 26, 2008 Trigger offset should fix it except for limp home mode. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z-ya Posted August 26, 2008 Share Posted August 26, 2008 Yes, the trigger offset can compensate. Use a timing light to calibrate your timing. Also, there is a bug in Megatune that you should be aware of (unless they fixed it). When you use the trigger offset, the timing displayed in the Megatune gauge panel will not include the trigger offset. Only the timing values in the timing table will be correct. So once you calibrate your ignition, always check your timing in the timing table, not using the advance gauge in the megatune gauge panel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nismo280zEd Posted August 27, 2008 Share Posted August 27, 2008 thanks for the response, any tips on centering that thing up without that handy alignment tool you made? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cygnusx1 Posted August 28, 2008 Author Share Posted August 28, 2008 Clamp it to the pulley snugly. Measure the edges all the way around to make them equal. Tap it with a mallet to slide it into position. It will take a few times around but with a caliper you can get real close. Ultimately, you can turn it on a lathe to face off all the teeth evenly around. I am now making a wiring diagram for myself. The car is back together but needs to be re-wired fir the EDIS. Are you sure the Tach output from MSII will run the 280Z tachometer? I thought there was some sort of difference between 240Z and 280Z tach's. The 280Z tach has a resistor inline. I think I emiminated that resistor when I installed MSII originally. Does MSII tach output require the inline resistor or will it run the 280Z tach directly? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z-ya Posted August 28, 2008 Share Posted August 28, 2008 Are you sure the Tach output from MSII will run the 280Z tachometer? I thought there was some sort of difference between 240Z and 280Z tach's. The 280Z tach has a resistor inline. I think I emiminated that resistor when I installed MSII originally. Does MSII tach output require the inline resistor or will it run the 280Z tach directly? Yes it will drive the 280Z tach fine. No series resistor is required. You do need to add the driver circuit to the breadboard on the V3 mainboard: Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cygnusx1 Posted August 28, 2008 Author Share Posted August 28, 2008 OK thanks, I thought it was already built into the MSII unit. Would I build that circuit in the prototype area of MSII? I am electronically challenged in a big way so it's going to take a while to finally make sense. I am a bit confused. I am reading the megamanual to see where I can find the info on how to do this. I also saw that I could tap into the three coils to make a diode triangle to drive my tach.... This only shows two coils but adding a third would be easy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z-ya Posted August 28, 2008 Share Posted August 28, 2008 You need to select an unused pin on the DB37, and then pick an unused output from the MSII. It is kind of involved. You can also try the diode trick, it should work. Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
letitsnow Posted August 29, 2008 Share Posted August 29, 2008 I got another PCB that fits inside the case, I can't stand trying to cram all that stuff on the proto area.(fan, 2 step, boost control, etc) It takes about 15min to solder up. Where in NY are you? I'm next west of rochester. I've got some questions about your turbo, It's identical to what I've got. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cygnusx1 Posted August 30, 2008 Author Share Posted August 30, 2008 Oh lordy....I hate wiring. I can wrench all day long but wires to me are like hairs in the shower. You know when you get so tired that you start fooling yourself. Well, I am sitting there finally finished pulling wires, and pushing, through all the places they need to go, All the wires are now near where they need to be. So I get this idea to turn on the ignition to make sure that MSII will still fire up after the mods I made to it. I look around to make sure there are no exposed 12v wires that may hit ground. All is good but MSII wont fire up. Neither relay main or fuel is coming on! WTF, I don't think I even touched that harness. After 30 minutes of tracing wires to figure out why there was no 12volt signal to MSII....I realize that my hidden kill switch was off. Time for a Corona....or maybe I should have had a few already. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cygnusx1 Posted September 2, 2008 Author Share Posted September 2, 2008 I got another PCB that fits inside the case, I can't stand trying to cram all that stuff on the proto area.(fan, 2 step, boost control, etc) It takes about 15min to solder up. Where in NY are you? I'm next west of rochester. I've got some questions about your turbo, It's identical to what I've got. I am in Putnam County, NY PM me about the turbo. I am interested in seeing how you did the additional PCB to run the tach. Thanks, Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
letitsnow Posted September 2, 2008 Share Posted September 2, 2008 It's really just a 2"x3"(roughly) hobby board from radio shack. I'd take a picture but I can't find the cable for my camera, I'll post one when I find it. I did it so I had more room to work with. Right now I've just got the fan circuit on it because I've still got a dizzy. I'm going to add the other stuff once I get the car going. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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