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Crank angle sensing


cygnusx1

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I just realized that instead of a 36-1 wheel on the crank or flywheel, you can use a 72-2 wheel on the front of the cam. You could then mount the VR sensor into the side of the valve cover. The two missing teeth on a 72-2 wheel need to be 180 degrees apart. Barring any timing chain slack, this would give you a good VR signal for EDIS.

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Once I get the Z running on the EDIS, I am going to try to run my tach off of pin 2 on the EDIS6 module. If that doesn't fire the tach up, I am going to build the diode circuit shown in the megamanual to capture the negative sides of the three dodge coils. That, in theory, should wake up my tach.

 

I will probably build a little diode board and stick it right next to the module which is mounted where the factory coil used to mount. The tach wire is already right there so it should be an easy install. Incidentally, since I don't know which pin fires which coilpack, I used blade connectors (temporary) at the coil. I can swap them around to get the firing order the way I want. This will also get the plug wires lined up in a neat way because I can choose which coil I want each wire pair to go to.

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Letitsnow,

 

The extra board looks good, I never thought about using those bolts as mounting points for a new board.

 

Also how is the clearance between the board and the top of the case?

 

On another note what if you want to update your system to say an MS2 daughter board?

 

When planning circuits my mind looks at changes in the future and how not to redo work if possible, you know, updates, expansion and/or adding circuits and extra wiring.

 

Keep us posted on any additions to your system, keep the pictures coming they help alot.

 

HB280ZT

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If I had an MSII I'd probably bend MOV1 down and put it above the DB37.

 

I'm not entirely pleased with the current mounting location because the bottom rubs against the adjustment screw on one of the VR pots, I may jest drill a hole in the board so it doesn't do that anymore.

 

I also think I should move the wire that I have going to the +5v to a +12v, as per the diagram on the megamanual.

 

Lots of clearance, here's a pic.(I like pictures)

megasquirt005.jpg

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I like the idea of using a wheel on the cam gear and mounting the sensor in the valve cover, I just need to see it to believe it can be done. Also I just found out the BHJ has a 2 groove dampener that they make for Rebello $378 new and they can mount a 60-2 wheel to the rear for clearance, $78. Now this sounds pretty good. I talked to Rebello today and they were going to send me a few pictures of this pulley on an L28 motor. will see about posting them when I get them.

 

HB280ZT

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I like the idea of using a wheel on the cam gear and mounting the sensor in the valve cover, I just need to see it to believe it can be done. Also I just found out the BHJ has a 2 groove dampener that they make for Rebello $378 new and they can mount a 60-2 wheel to the rear for clearance, $78. Now this sounds pretty good. I talked to Rebello today and they were going to send me a few pictures of this pulley on an L28 motor. will see about posting them when I get them.

 

HB280ZT

 

 

In theory it should work perfectly. The cam spins at half the RPMs of the crank. There would be two missing teeth on the trigger wheel. Each one would fool the EDIS into counting one complete revolution of the crank. Ignition timing would be dead on. Yes, 72 teeth would be closer together so you might think that the VR may have trouble reading them, however, they are spinning at half the speed of a 36 tooth wheel.

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I don't think setting the pick up to read off a cam sprocket will work on an engine where the cam is spun via a chain that is lubricated with engine oil. Wouldn't the oil have the tendency to reduce the ability of the sensor to accurately sense where the teeth are?

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Joe, I was talking about a tooth wheel mounted in front of the cam sprocket, not the actual cam sprocket. I don't think oil would affect the signal picked up by the VR sensor. It's a magnet that produces an AC wave as ferrous metal passes through it's field. It's basically a simple generator. As long as the timing chain was tight, and the construction of the VR sensor could handle the oil and the heat, it should work. Several vehicles already use cam sensors. I'll have to search to see if there are any special precautions in that method.

 

Lo and behold....http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=123287

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Oil is pretty much invisible to a VR sensor, unless you've got some serious problems with metal shavings in it. :)

 

The biggest problem is that you'd likely need a pretty large wheel and small VR sensor, although it's nothing crazy if you have the room on the front of the engine. Putting it in a distributor would be a real headache though.

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  • 1 month later...

The car has been flawless since the EDIS6 install. I do worry about the button head screws getting loose on the toothwheel or the VR bracket shifting but so far so good. I have had no movement or shifting of parts. After I mounted the VR bracket, I crawled underneath and drilled straight up between the AC bracket and the mount, tapped the hole and screwed in a bolt so that it can't move.

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  • 1 year later...

I know I might get lynched for digging up an old thread, but has anyone managed to run EDIS-6 on an L-Series using the flywheel yet? I've been searching for days now and it seems everybody starts off looking to use the flywheel, but eventually brakes down and uses the crank pulley? I've seen a few OEMs do it, but it seems nobody trusts a machine shop to put a 36-1 pattern on their flywheel. If anybody has done this, or knows a machine shop that has done something similar for other cars please let me know. I really don't want to clutter the front of my engine when something as elegant and simple as having the VR sensor mounted to the bell housing cover seems so much more clean and logical! Thanks.

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  • 3 weeks later...

I dont think its logical at all. infact I think it will take more time and money. You have to pull the tranny out clutch all that then design and mount CAS right on there. Take care of the programming. And if god forbit sh*t happens which always does good luck opening the tranny. Derek here on HBZ makes the triggor wheel, hub, and mount sensor which I highly recommend will make your EDIS swap much easier.

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Well, normally that would all be true, but the engine and tranny are already out and separated. I've got a 240sx transmission waiting to have its gearbox put on the 280z bellhousing, so I'm already doing work to the transmission. This isn't a daily driver, so there are no time constraints, so why not do it this way from the get go?

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