Daeron Posted August 4, 2008 Share Posted August 4, 2008 Impressive!!! This has a TON of potential IMO! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbc3 Posted August 5, 2008 Author Share Posted August 5, 2008 Thanks for the comments/compliments... I spent a few more minutes editing some driving lights onto the front. The perspective of these lights is off a little, but you can get the idea. Before the comments, I was not thinking of putting lights like these on. I am still not sure. Today I did pick up a sheet of Kydex, so hopefully I'll get a chance to start playing with it over the near future. Jody Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavyZ Posted August 6, 2008 Share Posted August 6, 2008 Oooh, that looks pretty darn good! I think the lights will break up the large field and make it look more balanced. Go for it! Davy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZROSSA Posted August 6, 2008 Share Posted August 6, 2008 Try it with larger lights and move them out to the sides a bit. Should give it that Le mans racer look. Douglas Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbc3 Posted August 13, 2008 Author Share Posted August 13, 2008 I cut, molded and mounted the kydex this weekend. The added air scoops under the air dam can't really be seen, but the car ran a little cooler on the ride to and from work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavyZ Posted August 13, 2008 Share Posted August 13, 2008 Jody, the Kydex work looks good and the lower scoops/vents look great too. Where did you purchase the kydex? Your posts was the first time I had heard of the product name. Pretty cool. Also, this 10 sec car is you DD?!? Shoot man, that's extreme... Thanks for posting the descriptive photos of your work. Davy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tkach Posted August 13, 2008 Share Posted August 13, 2008 Looks great!! Im also interested about the Kydex i've done a little reading on it do you have any links to tutorials that you used? I found this and it seems fairly easy to do http://www.paracordsecrets.com/articles/35/article.html what thickness did you use? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbc3 Posted August 14, 2008 Author Share Posted August 14, 2008 There is a local plastic supplier near me, http://www.piedmontplastics.com . The 4'x8' sheet that I bought cost less than $80. It measures .125, but is actually rated 1/16". I rough cut it with a circular saw, trim it close with a wizzer and then shape curves with a grinder and/or sander. I use a heat gun to mold it. Rivets and 3M adhesive tape work great to secure it. I am going to leave the rivets on the air scoops under the car, but I will eventually replace the rivets on the front air dam with fender liner plastic tabs. The plastic liner tabs should paint just fine. I don't claim to be an expert on molding this stuff. I learned about Kydex from a friend that I used to work with. He makes knives and uses Kydex to make some unbelievable knife sheaths. He also used it to make an unbelievable custom interior in another friend's Vette. (I wish he still lived near me) He uses a heat gun, clamps and molds made from scrap wood. The best part is if your molded shape doesn't look right, re-heat it and try again. Lastly, heavy welding gloves or fireplace gloves really help you hold your shapes as they cool. Jody Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bjhines Posted August 14, 2008 Share Posted August 14, 2008 The panels look great and that stuff appears to be an ideal material to use for this purpose. about the lower scoops... You want to limit the amount of airflow around the radiator to improve cooling. The space behind the radiator needs to be a low pressure area. The stalled air in front of the radiator is a high pressure area. The factory lower "splash pan" had nothing to do with splashes and everything to do with keeping the area behind the radiator lower pressure than the front. The scoops are destuctive to this pressure differential. The S-30 is not a bottom breather like many modern cars. Scooping air up and forcing behind the radiator is exactly the opposite of what you want to do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted August 14, 2008 Share Posted August 14, 2008 The panels look great and that stuff appears to be an ideal material to use for this purpose. about the lower scoops... You want to limit the amount of airflow around the radiator to improve cooling. The space behind the radiator needs to be a low pressure area. The stalled air in front of the radiator is a high pressure area. The factory lower "splash pan" had nothing to do with splashes and everything to do with keeping the area behind the radiator lower pressure than the front. The scoops are destuctive to this pressure differential. The S-30 is not a bottom breather like many modern cars. Scooping air up and forcing behind the radiator is exactly the opposite of what you want to do. Agreed. If you forced all the air that went into the grill opening through the radiator with a duct, the car would cool better and you would reduce drag. Thanks for the info on the Kydex. That seems like a product with many potential applications... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbc3 Posted August 14, 2008 Author Share Posted August 14, 2008 I guess I should have take a picture from above also. The air ducts are IN FRONT of the radiator and deflect the air right into the front of the radiator. The air dam is tight to the bottom of the radiator support so nothing gets past the radiator. I am still using the factory splash pan also. It is now running a little cooler. I have always been running a small tubular support (about 12") that mated to the lower part of the Urethane air dam to prevent it from collapsing at speed. (you can see the scrape marks in the urethane air dam where the tubular support is behind) The lower air dam with the vents attach to the tubular support, but also clips under the lower lip of the urethane air dam and extends out to the brake duct openings to add much more to the width of support. Jody Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbc3 Posted August 18, 2008 Author Share Posted August 18, 2008 I painted my air dam this weekend. I think it looks pretty good. (You guys don't get to see the close-up yet, I got a run that needs to be fixed) Jody Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TrumpetRhapsody Posted August 18, 2008 Share Posted August 18, 2008 Looks pretty sweet. You going to fiberglass it in or leave it as is? EDIT: N/m, dumb question, you already painted it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jt1 Posted August 18, 2008 Share Posted August 18, 2008 I like the look, and it's functional too, a win/win. Good job. John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavyZ Posted August 20, 2008 Share Posted August 20, 2008 The painted parts really bring the look together--it's clean, like the rest of the car. Nice work! Davy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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