espo280zx Posted August 6, 2008 Share Posted August 6, 2008 its not of extreme improtants right now, but my heat and A/C doesnt work in my 280zx. I was thinking heater core, maybe a relay. My windows roll down so thats why its not important right now, but if I am forced to drvie this through the winter, (which i DO NOT want to do cause of the rust it has) im going to need heat and defrost. I just dont want to go out and spend the little money i have on a heater core or this and that which might not be the problem. Anything else i should be looking towards as far a the heat and things that dont work? Or am I just asking a stupid question? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dat1gai Posted September 25, 2008 Share Posted September 25, 2008 check the vacuum lines Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gwnwar Posted September 25, 2008 Share Posted September 25, 2008 What do you mean it doesn't work?? No heat or AC, Fan doesn't blow, Does the AC compressor click on, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woldson Posted September 26, 2008 Share Posted September 26, 2008 ? Not specific enough. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
plexus Posted September 30, 2008 Share Posted September 30, 2008 I have the same problem, I just disregard it for now (socal weather). However my system does work to some extent, the fan motor cuts on but no heat, AC "forget bout it", got's no belt on the pump, so whatever. I would like to hear any suggestions on making my heater work correctly, it would help with defrost issues later on in the rain. Like I mentioned above the thing works (yes the plumbing from the motor to the core and back to the motor is fine) just not kicking out any heat, never had. I thought maybe it was the H-core but I didnt get any leaks in the cabin(so I am told with Z cars). H-fan clicks on when engaged, its evan blowing through the ducts. Since I have had cars with no working AC but the heater works fine, I disregarded the fact that the AC pump was not engaged with a drive belt (76 firebird, I dismantaled the AC pump out the car but heater worked fine). any ideas on the matter would be helpful. 82 280zx coupe l28 all stock, no mods to the engine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gwnwar Posted October 1, 2008 Share Posted October 1, 2008 Cable to the water control valve (hot/cold lever) slipping or need adjustment. Under dash pass side high on side of heater box. Follow heater lines through firewall to it.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
69sroadster Posted October 29, 2008 Share Posted October 29, 2008 I think I have a small leak in the H core due to the sweet smell and the windshield fogging up almost immediately when I turn it on and never going away until I wipe it away. Is the heater core a hard replace once I get the front radio piece out or do I need to take off the entire front dash to get to it? Any recommendations on the supplier for the H core? I also recently had the A/C charged with R-12 and it doesn't seem like it's doing anything with cooling. The A/C lines don't have any temp difference in them. Do I have a leak and lost the R-12 or do I have too much oil in it or do I have a bad part? I replaced the condensor, drier, and had new lines made for the SR20 compressor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hyuri Posted October 29, 2008 Share Posted October 29, 2008 I also recently had the A/C charged with R-12 and it doesn't seem like it's doing anything with cooling. The A/C lines don't have any temp difference in them. Do I have a leak and lost the R-12 or do I have too much oil in it or do I have a bad part? I replaced the condensor, drier, and had new lines made for the SR20 compressor. Quickie test: turn the A/C on, then look at the pulley. If the belt is going around but the front of the pulley isn't spinning, there's something wrong with the clutch or its control circuit. If it is spinning, there are still possibilities other than a leak - a bad TXV or strainer, for example. Is the belt installed and tension properly set? Assumption check: did you have the system evacuated or just charged? Your worries about a leak are making me suspicious on that count. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
69sroadster Posted October 29, 2008 Share Posted October 29, 2008 Belt is good, clutch is engaging, I asked to have it evacuated but suspect it was not. Since there are few R-12 servicing shops here these days, how will R-134 work in the Z and would I have to get one of those crazy mineral spirits trapping tools to get all that stuff out? Sight glass shows intermittent bubbles. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hyuri Posted October 29, 2008 Share Posted October 29, 2008 For further diagnosis you really want a manifold gauge set. They're reasonably cheap (e.g. manifold, hoses) and, along with a stem thermometer, comprise the basic diagnostic toolkit for MVAC systems. Couple of test leads, a test light, and a FSM, and you can pretty much test anything [A/C-related] on a Z. Well, and a vacuum gauge if you have the automatic climate controls. It's usually easier to have someone else do the work though, especially with R-12 as most people don't have a 609 certificate. Anyway, R134a works tolerably well in about every application I've seen, OEM or retrofit. The biggest problem I've observed in, again, every application, is that it doesn't work well at all at idle. Kick it into neutral and run it up to ~1200 RPM and it's usually cold again. If you retrofit, get as much of the old oil out as possible, flush the condensor and evaporator (at a minimum) and replace the receiver/drier. R-12 oil doesn't react well at all with R-134a and its oils. Replace every O-ring you can find, and consider a new TXV so you don't have to do that later on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GarageRatt13 Posted November 19, 2008 Share Posted November 19, 2008 im also having a problem with my heat (dont care about A/C thats what windows are for ). the motor comes on but just makes alot of noise and no air comes out any ideas? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hyuri Posted November 20, 2008 Share Posted November 20, 2008 Ducts may be blocked (vent or inlet), heater core may be blocked, blend doors may be frozen in an odd configuration (it's always odd, for some reason), motor may not actually be turning the squirrel cage.... Your best bet would probably be to 1) download a 1975 FSM (XenonS30), and 2) check in the S30 forum. I'd guess from various comments floating around the 'net that you might want to focus your attention on the blower. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GarageRatt13 Posted November 21, 2008 Share Posted November 21, 2008 ok cool i'll check it out. thx man. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
69sroadster Posted November 24, 2008 Share Posted November 24, 2008 Wow, I finally finished the heater core swap and it works great all over again. I should have taken pictures because I almost had the entire front part of my car out on the inside to do it. I was hoping after taking off the dash that I would be able swing the center box out over the frame, but it was too deep of a box. So I had to pull the fan box and A/C box to then slide the heater box over and under the frame. The A/C lines were empty, meaning I have a good leak somewhere. I'll get to that later, but my next job is going to be finding and fixing the vibration I have in one of the wheels. Thanks for the tips and good luck with your heater fixes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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