v8dats Posted October 3, 2008 Share Posted October 3, 2008 Wicked! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Challenger Posted October 3, 2008 Share Posted October 3, 2008 Looks at home. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EMWHYR0HEN Posted October 6, 2008 Author Share Posted October 6, 2008 Update: shifter and intake relocation. I used the stock external shifter mount and univeral joint by shortening them both. The shifter is a little further back than before but, still feels good with the seat and steering wheel position. I finished it up with a peice of aluminum lined with a foam gasket to seal up the cabin. It was hard to work with such a narrow trans tunnel. I think it looks real cheap but, it works. I cut the stock 90 degree bend and throttle body flange off of the stock manifold. I've decided on extending the T/B flange straight into the cowl where the throttle body will be placed. I'm going to cut a hole that goes into the cabin where a 180 degree mandrel bend will be placed and welded. The other end will go back out to the passenger side cowl area where a small cone filter or flat filter will be placed. See my awsome illustrations below. I still trying to plan things out so i'm open to any sugestions to my knarly design. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EMWHYR0HEN Posted October 6, 2008 Author Share Posted October 6, 2008 Anyone have any tips for welding cast aluminum? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
proxlamus© Posted October 7, 2008 Share Posted October 7, 2008 oh man cast aluminum is tough to weld.. especially since casting doesn't ensure clean material.. so the welds are nasty! I ended up using a thick thick filler rod and a bit of extra heat.. only thing I could do =( Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240Z_Master Posted October 7, 2008 Share Posted October 7, 2008 I'm almost sickened by everyone's welding ability. And by sickened I mean jealous. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240hoke Posted October 8, 2008 Share Posted October 8, 2008 I have had good luck welding cast aluminum so far. true its not as pretty as extruded 606t1 or whatever but you can make nice beads. It takes a lot of heat and grab some aluminum filler for cast aluminum. I forgot the exact numbers but they should know when you buy it or perhaps someone more knowledgeable can chime in. I relocated the coolant sensor in my rear coolant passage so i didnt have to modify the firewall...and it welded very well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EMWHYR0HEN Posted October 9, 2008 Author Share Posted October 9, 2008 Thanks for the welding tips guys. I finally finished my steering shaft. Currently tackling the exhaust. Stay tuned Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlueZ31 Posted October 9, 2008 Share Posted October 9, 2008 instead of using the cone filter and plumbing it like you've shown why not box up that section of the cowl where the tb's already at and use a K&N or similar panel filter? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EMWHYR0HEN Posted October 10, 2008 Author Share Posted October 10, 2008 instead of using the cone filter and plumbing it like you've shown why not box up that section of the cowl where the tb's already at and use a K&N or similar panel filter? *Sigh* The F'n MAF.... I was either going to use a small cone or fab an air box with a flat filter. Either way, I think I have to plumb it like I've drawn up top. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thehelix112 Posted October 12, 2008 Share Posted October 12, 2008 Is there enough room to do a right angle forwards from the cutoff and into the cowl area racing towards the driver's side and then have the T/B, MAP, air filter all one after the other? I have a pic but can't attach it to this thread for some reason? Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EMWHYR0HEN Posted October 13, 2008 Author Share Posted October 13, 2008 In the past I've had engine idle problems when placing the MAF too close to the TB. Also, I dont want to cut any of the gussets that support the cowl area which is why I've decided to route the intake the way I've drawn. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thehelix112 Posted October 13, 2008 Share Posted October 13, 2008 Fair enough. Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EMWHYR0HEN Posted October 13, 2008 Author Share Posted October 13, 2008 Update: Exhaust The layout is 2.5'' x 16 gauge steel piping w/ mandrel bends on each side of the manifold, both sides coming together at the "Y - pipe" turning into 3" piping also w/ mandrel bends then a flange for a muffler and straight pipe to be attached ( still to come) I got all my piping, O2 bungs, and v- bands from Columbia Madrel Bending. The stock manifolds didnt clear the firewall so the flanges and a couple inches of the manifold were cut off. The 2.5'' piping is welded onto the stock manifolds and is sent down and back about down pipe length. The rest of the exhaust system is then attached with V-bands and one aluminum hanger. Everything fits really tight against the chassis. With the car on the ground the exhaust is up 3'' at the lowest point. By far the most time comsuming part of the swap. Also, really nice to have an extra hand when fabbing an exhaust. Also, the entire exhaust system, including manifolds and hardware & excluding a muffler, weighed in at 32 LBS Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Challenger Posted October 13, 2008 Share Posted October 13, 2008 Gorgeous! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeffer949 Posted October 13, 2008 Share Posted October 13, 2008 I love your work. But what amazes me is your speed. I mean is ALL you do is work on your Z? Do you work? do you have a job? lol also I think your putting austins progress to shame lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
proxlamus© Posted October 13, 2008 Share Posted October 13, 2008 uh oh .. no muffler?? especially in a stripped interior Z? going to be NOISEY!!!! Keep in mind Austin is going to school full time and the car is kept at another house.. give him a break Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeffer949 Posted October 13, 2008 Share Posted October 13, 2008 It was a joke. I mean no insult to austin. His work is rather spectacular. And I strive to do mine any where as close as his. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EMWHYR0HEN Posted October 13, 2008 Author Share Posted October 13, 2008 I'm 23, I go to school full time, and if i'm not working on my car i'm out making a buck wrenching of cars and houses. To be completely honest I think i'm more efficient than fast. I try to stay as clean and organized as possible, I stay away from dissruptions like phone calls, and manage my time working on my car wisely. With any of my projects: I take the time to plan out exactly what i'm going to do and everything i'm going to need before I work and write them down on a notepad. When it's time to work I simply look at the notepad and become a machine as some have said. When everything comes together you just fall into a groove and things get done quite fast. In turn, your productivity goes up and you stay focused with the build. But that's just me..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EMWHYR0HEN Posted October 13, 2008 Author Share Posted October 13, 2008 uh oh .. no muffler?? especially in a stripped interior Z? going to be NOISEY!!!! Keep in mind Austin is going to school full time and the car is kept at another house.. give him a break The rear pipe is just tacked on right now. A flange is going to be added for a muffler and a staight pipe for the track Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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