240hoke Posted November 19, 2008 Share Posted November 19, 2008 I think the easiest thing to do if you are running aftermarket gauges is an induction sensor off the driveshaft bolts. You can mount it off a bracket on the rear diff crossmember and set your electronic speedo to 4 pulse and then calibrate it. Thats my plan right now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EMWHYR0HEN Posted November 19, 2008 Author Share Posted November 19, 2008 I'm not running a speedo so it's not a concern for me. However, the driveshaft thing seems like the best option. Austin- Im using a MSD tach adapter part # 8913. Auto meter also makes one, but just make sure you get an adapter for a distributorless ignition/coil on plug setup. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EMWHYR0HEN Posted November 19, 2008 Author Share Posted November 19, 2008 I removed the Borla muffler and replaced it with a 3'' straight peice. It's loud, but I think it sounds awsome! You can kind of hear the VQ note, only meaner than your typical 350Z. I also added some heat wrap along the y-pipe section because it was generating a lot of heat inside the cabin. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NLKnWrEa6LU Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jerryb Posted November 19, 2008 Share Posted November 19, 2008 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NLKnWrEa6LU wakawakawakawakawakawakawakawakawakawaka! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doc Hawk Posted November 20, 2008 Share Posted November 20, 2008 Gorgeous. I'm looking to do the same transplant. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pharaohabq Posted November 22, 2008 Share Posted November 22, 2008 I removed the Borla muffler and replaced it with a 3'' straight peice. It's loud, but I think it sounds awsome! You can kind of hear the VQ note, only meaner than your typical 350Z. I also added some heat wrap along the y-pipe section because it was generating a lot of heat inside the cabin. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NLKnWrEa6LU Hmm A lot of heat, like how much? Should I be considering sone heat shielding from the body? I wouldn't want anything to light up my undercoating on a longer drive in 90-100 degree weather likewe get here in New Mexico. much less melt anything important. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EMWHYR0HEN Posted November 22, 2008 Author Share Posted November 22, 2008 I dont have any undercoating, sound detening, or heat sheilding on the bottom of my car. Just the factory tunnel and some paint separates my legs and the exhaust so maybe its just me. I wouldnt worry about it so much if you have all of those barriers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EMWHYR0HEN Posted December 5, 2008 Author Share Posted December 5, 2008 Update: It's been a while. Ive been spending the last week cleaning up some of the wiring and making sure everything is working properly. I wired in my autometer tach using a MSD tach adapter (P/N 8913). The 12V power source for the coils can be found on the engine harness to engine compartment harness connector. It's a white wire with a blue stripe.( I'll have more info later including harness connector number and picture) Iv'e made a few observations on the cooling system. It's really hard to burp the cooling system with out an air bleed point. I took the T-shaped bleed fitting from the heater hose on a 350Z and placed it on the highest point which is the located on the front of the engine on the bypass hose. I've wired my electric fan so that the factory electronics control when it turns on and off. The fan turns on at around 90 degrees C and switches off at 80 degrees C. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EMWHYR0HEN Posted December 17, 2008 Author Share Posted December 17, 2008 After getting turned down by a few other shops I was reffered to Driveshaft Specialist out of Azusa, CA (626) 334-2418. Randy does all the driveshafts for a shop out of San Dimas, CA which does VQ swaps into the S13/14 chassis so he was very familiar with 350Z driveshafts. He basically turned the stock 350Z yoke down to a common tube diameter and also replaced my rear u-joint with a brand new spicer 1310 unit. He's a really knowledgeable guy and does great work. I F'ed up on my part by cutting the carbon fiber off the yoke so for you future swappers just give your driveshaft shops everything untouched! Still Randy at Driveshaft Specialist was able to pull it off for me. As a side note, i'm using Redline transmission fluid. I'm using a 50/50 mix of Redline MTL (essentialy a 75/80 weight oil) and Redline MT-90 (75/90 wt.) the FSM shows 3-1/8 qts. So I can pretty much drive the car now. I just have to wait for all this nasty weather to clear. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thehelix112 Posted December 17, 2008 Share Posted December 17, 2008 Myron, Great to hear about the driveshaft! First drive vids (in the wet) coming up in 10 minutes then? Did you investigate Redline shockproof oil? I had that recommended to me by a racer friend, apparently helpful for reducing friction and both cushioning shock loads if you believe the marketting. Are you using a sprung clutch still? Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240hoke Posted December 18, 2008 Share Posted December 18, 2008 Good to hear you got the driveshaft figured out Myron. FYI for other swappers out there I had no issue getting my driveshaft made. I took the 350z yoke to my local driveshaft shop and they didn't think twice about it. I dont really understand why it would be benificial for you to leave the carbon on the shaft, I just sawed mine off about 8 inches from the yoke and they did the rest, it can be easily turned down for a 3" tube. I thnk the total damage was 280 bucks. I also thought I would add the tach adapter wire is located in pin #5 of the E12 connector of the engine bay harness and as Myron mentioned earlier is W/L... Im in the middle of hooking mine up. I finished my speedo sensor as well, I used a Turck Inductive Switch (NPN-Sinking, 8mm). I have it so it reads the differential flange bolts where they come through the nut on the back of the flange. Ill post some pictures of it tomorrow, I am using 300zxt flange with the square bolt pattern to the signals are equal. I have tested it just with a battery hooked up on the workbench and it works perfect. The Autometer tach pretty much can be calibrated for any signal, from 500-400,000 pulses per miles so it should work good. Turck Website: http://www.turck-usa.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EMWHYR0HEN Posted December 18, 2008 Author Share Posted December 18, 2008 Yeah i'm still using the stock sprung clutch. Should do okay for now. I havn't looked into the redline shockproof stuff. It seems like a much thicker gear oil more for an older tranny or diff. I think I would compare it to the Lucas stabilazer stuff. I'm going to stick with the recomended 75/85 wt synthetic oil. When it comes to gear oils: Amsoil, Redline, and Royal Purple is all I use. Well if you think about it your driveshaft shop is the one putting your new driveshaft together so It might be best if they are thoe ones to decide where to cut because everyones machines, processes, and techniques are different. I would have saved 30 bucks if I didnt cut mine but, i'm still not complaining at 200 bucks all completed in 2 days Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thehelix112 Posted December 18, 2008 Share Posted December 18, 2008 Fair enough, though Redline shockproof superlight is rated at 75W90. http://www.redlineoil.com/products_gearlubricants.asp?productID=42&subCategoryID=16&categoryID=6 The benefit is the reduced friction = more hp. Poomfteenth, but it all adds up? Ignore that, it clearly says not for use with synchro transmissions. Oh well. Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240hoke Posted December 18, 2008 Share Posted December 18, 2008 Well the carbon driveshaft has two steel yokes on the ends that are PRESSED on (This still amazes me that a pressed steel-carbon joint is so strong). So as long as you dont cut into that your fine...sounds to me like they were just tyring to give you a hard time... cant argue with 200 bucks though. BTW myron was the oil pressure port BSPT or NPT? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EMWHYR0HEN Posted December 18, 2008 Author Share Posted December 18, 2008 BTW myron was the oil pressure port BSPT or NPT? I had to use an adapter to run my mechanical guage. I was able to re-use the same adapter that was on my RB which was bought a while back but, if I remember correctly the female threads coming off the engine were 1/8'' NPT. You should double check me on that though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EMWHYR0HEN Posted December 21, 2008 Author Share Posted December 21, 2008 Took the car for a little spin today. Everything's running smooothly other than a little alternator/charging problem. I got the alternator tested and passed so now i'm beggining to think that this has somthing to do with the stock gauges and how the alternator ties into the factory volt meter gauge. The good news is that the car moves VERY quickly, It's a beast. 1st, 2nd, 3rd and 4th gear requires carefull throttle modulation in order for me to NOT spin the wheels. It's pretty rediculous. The combination of the snappy throttle response, the engines ability to rev quickly and the short gearing made it really easy for the car to accelerate very rapidly in any of the 6 gears. Just from the little cruise I did today I'm really impressed with how well the VQ performs. The powerband is thick with almost no weakspots throughout the entire rpm range. I think this powertrain/drivetrain makes an excellent combination with the S30 or anything small in mass. To me its not so much the quantity and how much power the engine makes but, it's the quality and how easily/quickly the engine produces the torque. I should have another vid coming soon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240hoke Posted December 21, 2008 Share Posted December 21, 2008 Whoooo hoooooooo!!! Congratulations As for the alternator, Im sure you prolly have it hooked up but there is a wire there goes from one of the engine harness connectors to the alternator that should be ign on power. I believe it serves as the exciter wire. Might want to make sure there is power there. I haven't tested mine yet but I hope it works. Ill know in the next couple days. Im right behind you I think ill be driving mine on xmas eve. I cant wait. Sounds like you happy about the difference from the rb. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators RTz Posted December 21, 2008 Administrators Share Posted December 21, 2008 Took the car for a little spin today. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thehelix112 Posted December 21, 2008 Share Posted December 21, 2008 Congrats dude! Can't wait for the vids. Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
S15 200sx owner Posted December 21, 2008 Share Posted December 21, 2008 Nice one! It sounds like it will be a weapon. The first drive of a newly built car is sooo cool, i remember a few of mine very fondly Alo looking forward to the vids. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.