grumpyvette Posted September 22, 2008 Share Posted September 22, 2008 guys Ive got over 8 gigs of info stored in various hard drives, and close to 40 years experiance building engines and racing cars, if youve got auto related questions theres a decent chance Ive got at least some valid related info that might help, so if youve got questions post a brief subject your interested in discussing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zfan1 Posted September 22, 2008 Share Posted September 22, 2008 Grumpy, A few years back you posted up a place where I could find a cheap oil pan that I could cut and weld up to get more oil for my 385 sbc. I cannot find the info for what ever reason but I remember the pans were nice and cheap and allowed me to keep my long tube headers in my Z. Thanks, Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xander Posted September 22, 2008 Share Posted September 22, 2008 I love the first gen SBC engines for there simplicity and power potential but I can't help but notice that it is not the most popular engine swap here on hybridz anymore. When I first started to lurk on this board the majority of the engine swaps where first gen SBC's. After a while the trend started to shift towards big turbo L engines. Now the trend is slowly shifting to the LS series of v8's. I only recently swapped in my 305 SBC and love it. So to me the shift away from the SBC is a bit of a shame. Especially since we have a couple of really knowledgeable guys here. So lets get back to why the SBC is such a great swap in the first place. Grumpy I know you have a lot of information stored in your head so maybe you can give us a couple of engine combo's with exceptional power/dollar ratio's. I am looking to build a 400 rwhp SBC for as little money as possible. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpyvette Posted September 22, 2008 Author Share Posted September 22, 2008 Grumpy, A few years back you posted up a place where I could find a cheap oil pan that I could cut and weld up to get more oil for my 385 sbc. I cannot find the info for what ever reason but I remember the pans were nice and cheap and allowed me to keep my long tube headers in my Z. Thanks, Mike http://www.midwestmotorsportsinc.com/order_part.php?item=15120&line=MWM Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpyvette Posted September 22, 2008 Author Share Posted September 22, 2008 Grumpy I know you have a lot of information stored in your head so maybe you can give us a couple of engine combo's with exceptional power/dollar ratio's. I am looking to build a 400 rwhp SBC for as little money as possible. Id need to know what parts you currently have, the drive train that your using (gearing,stall speed ,transmission, clutch,etc.)and a rought idea as to what your trying to accomplish(GOAL??) and budget?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpyvette Posted September 22, 2008 Author Share Posted September 22, 2008 I love the first gen SBC engines for there simplicity and power potential .. So lets get back to why the SBC is such a great swap in the first place. Grumpy I know you have a lot of information stored in your head so maybe you can give us a couple of engine combo's with exceptional power/dollar ratio's. I am looking to build a 400 plus rwhp SBC for as little money as possible. ID suggest your start with these components cam http://www.iskycams.com/timingchart.php?product_number=201296/6 lifters http://www.rhoadslifters.com/Pages/OriginalFT.html AFR 210cc heads 74cc http://www.airflowresearch.com/210sbc_rh.php yes the heads are expensive,(BUT WORTH IT) heres a lower cost option, http://www.jegs.com/i/Brodix/158/1021001/10002/-1 or http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=TFS%2D30400003&N=700+115&autoview=sku intake http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=WND%2D8501&autoview=sku carb http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=HLY%2D0%2D4779C&N=700+115&autoview=sku short block http://www.midwestmotorsportsinc.com/order_mini.php?id=3 match ideally to a manual trans and 3.90:1 rear gear Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GRUMPZ Posted September 22, 2008 Share Posted September 22, 2008 I am building a 1978 280z I bought with a 305,t-5 and a r200. I ran 13s till i broke the rear stubb axle.i currently have a 525-550hp 383 with a glide and narrowed dana with spool and 4.10 gears. my problem is going with ladderbars that I can make fit somewhat easy and affordable (end-o-buget) or back halve with 4 link. ?the 4 link i believe is better but the fit seams to be to long even with round tube and axle moved back an inch or two. Can I use custom rods that are shorter or will that make adjusting to hard? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpyvette Posted September 22, 2008 Author Share Posted September 22, 2008 I am building a 1978 280z I bought with a 305,t-5 and a r200. I ran 13s till i broke the rear stubb axle.i currently have a 525-550hp 383 with a glide and narrowed dana with spool and 4.10 gears. my problem is going with ladderbars that I can make fit somewhat easy and affordable (end-o-buget) or back halve with 4 link. ?the 4 link i believe is better but the fit seams to be to long even with round tube and axle moved back an inch or two. Can I use custom rods that are shorter or will that make adjusting to hard? not quite sure how your set up but this MIGHT help http://www.calvertracing.com/caltracs.html simple and effective now many guys I know have never seen these traction bars so Ill point them out http://www.4secondsflat.com/CalTracs.html http://www.hotrodsandhemis.com/Traction.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MJLamberson Posted September 22, 2008 Share Posted September 22, 2008 Ive got a random question that has been on my mind... I read somewhere that if you have an engine, say an l28et and you are running lets throw out the number 15psi on a smaller turbo, and you do nothing but upgrade to a larger turbo, and continue to run that same 15psi of boost, you will have a power increase. How is this so? Edit: or was this a v8 exclusive thread? oh well, I guess it could still be relevant Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ktm Posted September 22, 2008 Share Posted September 22, 2008 Ive got a random question that has been on my mind... I read somewhere that if you have an engine, say an l28et and you are running lets throw out the number 15psi on a smaller turbo, and you do nothing but upgrade to a larger turbo, and continue to run that same 15psi of boost, you will have a power increase. How is this so? Edit: or was this a v8 exclusive thread? oh well, I guess it could still be relevant Turbo efficiency at the boost level. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MJLamberson Posted September 22, 2008 Share Posted September 22, 2008 Turbo efficiency at the boost level. So 15psi being shoved down an engine by a turbo that is working its but off is less power then 15psi being put out by a turbo that is just chilaxin? I dont mean to sound ignorant, Just trying to learn. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
datsun723 Posted September 22, 2008 Share Posted September 22, 2008 So 15psi being shoved down an engine by a turbo that is working its but off is less power then 15psi being put out by a turbo that is just chilaxin? I dont mean to sound ignorant, Just trying to learn. i'm not turbo expert but if you run the same psi on a larger turbo, which is exactly what that is...larger intake of air, you'd only naturally make more power. correct? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ktm Posted September 22, 2008 Share Posted September 22, 2008 I will take it to PM. I do not want to thread jack. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rudypoochris Posted September 22, 2008 Share Posted September 22, 2008 Grumpy, what do you think of reusable oil filters such as these: http://www.trufilter.com http://www.gopurepower.com/store/item.asp?ItemID=8110-BF Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpyvette Posted September 23, 2008 Author Share Posted September 23, 2008 Grumpy, what do you think of reusable oil filters such as these: http://www.trufilter.com http://www.gopurepower.com/store/item.asp?ItemID=8110-BF Thanks! I don,t see the advantage of spending $200 on an oil filter you need to clean every so often when there ARE decent throw away designs, that work just fine for under $10 each Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rudypoochris Posted September 23, 2008 Share Posted September 23, 2008 I don,t see the advantage of spending $200 on an oil filter you need to clean every so often when there ARE decent throw away designs, that work just fine for under $10 each Interesting. Some of them pack 10 micron absolute material in them though. I am wondering if that will make a significant difference. That is to say essentially no particles larger than 10 micron will pass through the mesh. There are some SAE papers out there I read a while ago that pointed at 5-20 micron particles as the greatest cause of wear in the motor. I am wondering basically about the possible effectivity of something like this vs. a conventional setup. Not so much the value/dollar. Thanks for your replies! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpyvette Posted September 23, 2008 Author Share Posted September 23, 2008 most problems are the result of not changing the filters frequently enought, once the filter medium becomes partly clogged the filter rapidly starts to bye-pass at least some percentage of the oil durring cold starts and rapid changes in rpm levels, most of the cleanable filters Ive examined have very limited surface areas so they would need to be cleaned very frequently. the better throw aways have 400 sq inches of surface area, Ive never seen a single cleanable oil filter that states thier screens surface area but looking at them Id be amazed if it exceeded 220 sq inches look closely at the design of the filters and youll see the differances http://people.msoe.edu/~yoderw/oilfilterstudy/oilfilterstudy.html#fram-ph8a Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rudypoochris Posted September 23, 2008 Share Posted September 23, 2008 Thanks for the reply! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kiwi303 Posted September 23, 2008 Share Posted September 23, 2008 Ok... I realise this is the Gen I & II CHEV board and I've settled on a Ford Cleveland as the engine I'll be building up. but my Q is a bit more general than just model specific. Of a choice between a stroked 393 N/A motor and a twin turbo (one per bank) EFI 302 motor with a moderate PSI boost setting, which is more likely to produce a comfortable forgiving ride? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cockerstar Posted September 24, 2008 Share Posted September 24, 2008 Well, since you are open to discussion on pretty much anything, I'd like some input/direction/advice. I'm currently building an engine for my dad's '69 camaro. Right now we're still in the phase of planning things out and deciding on everything. The best bang for the buck is the idea here. We currently have the following to work with and will be picking up whatever else is needed. -Complete 350 010 pulled as a runner from a chevy van. It looks like it's never been molested before. This is the block we're planning on using. Completely stock and sitting on a stand right now. -Current motor in the car right now. It's a 307 SBC and from what we can tell it just has a few bolt ons aside from the cam the po shoved into it. I say shoved because he neglected to add any supporting mods with it. Edelbrock performer intake Edelbrock performer carb HEI Comp cam -- .501 lift, 292dur iirc headers > purple hornies - Turbo 350. It has a summit aluminum pan on it and a B&M full race shifter, but a stock converter so we're not sure if it has any work done to it or if it just has a few things tossed onto it. Now my dilema is as follows. I saw what you suggested a few posts up to get to ~400HP and that sounds like an excellent number. It has a lot of the things that I was planning on going with, but I'm having a buddy tell me that aluminum heads aren't worth the price and you can port stock 1.94's to flow just as well as an aftermarket head. Is .500 lift too high for a street motor? This same buddy is telling me that that much lift is just going to cause problems. What compression ratio should I be shooting for if I'm planning to stay on pump gas? What displacement do you prefer? 302(with the 265 crank), 350, or 383(with the 400 crank)? Did I get that right on the different stroking options? Thanks for your input Grumpy! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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