grumpyvette Posted August 9, 2009 Author Share Posted August 9, 2009 Hello Sir, On a SBC swap in a 280Z, what is the best accessory bracket route to go to have the hood close and keep the a/c ? All i have is the water pump, alt and a/c to run. I have looked all over and can not find the answer. I have a VORTEC engine out of a 98 chevy truck and am running a carb. Next question is would you use the datsun elec fuel pump or remove it and go to a sbc mech pump? 2 line or 3 ? and would you replace the datsun line and replace it to 3/8" ? I appreciate your help. Thanks JJ I always head to local salvage yards looking for the trucks , impallas and camaros etc for brackets, since this is presumably a performance build Id strongly suggest no less than two 3/8" ID lines,be used and a decent return line style fuel pressure regulator with a manual pump is fine http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=55&t=211&p=247#p247 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lgoodson@pacbell.net Posted August 15, 2009 Share Posted August 15, 2009 Here is a question that nobody seems to have an answer for. How do you make the stock tach work with a 93 LT1. 94 and newer no problem but a 93 big problem. I have a 240, a 76 280Z and 78 280Z tach that I have tried. I have hooked the white wire to the negative side of the coil and while I get a signal, it's not even close to working right and that's with the 78 Tach only. Don't even mention JTR because they don't have a clue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tomcraft Posted August 15, 2009 Share Posted August 15, 2009 thanks for your anticipated help im new to hotrodding and i need some help i have a 383 with an edelbrock carb 750.the car is running it seems a little rich.i was thinking of installing an air fuel gauge.The questions i have is where should i put the oxygen sensor ?how to best install it?is this a good idea?whats the ideal ratio?it seems to me that having a gauge would be great especially if i add forced induction but i dont see many cars with them wonder why ?thanks again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rsicard Posted August 15, 2009 Share Posted August 15, 2009 Lgoodson: Don't say nobody has a clue. Post a photograph of the rear of the 280Z tach to see if it uses the same current loop as the 240Z which I have. If it does then we can experiment to get the 280Z tach working with the LT-1. It would seem that the 280Z tach needs to be in series with the power feed to the ignition coil. That would be the positive side of the coil which needs to be removed and routed to the tach then the other lead of the tach needs to go back to the positive side of the ignition coil. In this manner the ignition primary coil current is flowing through the pickup in the 280Z tach and back to the ignition coil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpyvette Posted August 15, 2009 Author Share Posted August 15, 2009 thanks for your anticipated help im new to hotrodding and i need some help i have a 383 with an edelbrock carb 750.the car is running it seems a little rich.i was thinking of installing an air fuel gauge.The questions i have is where should i put the oxygen sensor ?how to best install it?is this a good idea?whats the ideal ratio?it seems to me that having a gauge would be great especially if i add forced induction but i dont see many cars with them wonder why ?thanks again ok first most fuel air gauges come with an oxygen sensor and detailed instructions on where and how to weld a bung into the header collectors next, learning top accurately read sparkplugs and use of a infrared heat gun, and detailed knowledge of how your carb works will go a long way toward tuning a car correctly http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=55&t=1820&p=4706&hilit=edelbrock#p4706 http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=44&t=773 http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=44&t=634 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lgoodson@pacbell.net Posted August 15, 2009 Share Posted August 15, 2009 Rsicard. The rear of the 240 tach and the 280 tach are different. JTR says that the 240 will not work with a HEI ignition, The 280 does not have the power loop. It has just one signal terminal plus the 12v and ground wires. The signal terminal is suppose to be connected to the negative side of the coil or so everyone says but it doesn't work very well if at all. I don't know but maybe the 240 tach would work if connected the way you sugest, in the positive to the tach. I will try it. I didn't mean to insult anyone but alll I was getting was " I don't knows" from everyone. The 93 LT1 is an odd ball, one year only. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rsicard Posted August 15, 2009 Share Posted August 15, 2009 Lgoodson: Thanks for the response. Not certain just what kind of signal the 280Z tach is looking for. Just know that my 240Z tach has a small loop on the back which I am guessing is a current loop sense of pulses drawn by the distributor. For the tach to sense the pulses the two tach leads need to be in SERIES with either side of the coil wire. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doc Hawk Posted August 16, 2009 Share Posted August 16, 2009 Grumpy, I have a 450 HP 1st Gen 350 SBC build in progress, going into a 240Z. I was planning on running a T5 W/C (which I own) but I am concerned about overwhelming the transmission. It's a street and road race car, not a dragster, so it won't see but one or two drag strip passes in its lifetime, and even then it will be on DOT tires. I do have an opportunity to get a T56 out of an 03 Corvette. Every time I see the swap written up here, they say get the T56 from the LT1 Camaro. Well, that's not the T56 I have a line on, so I'm asking... can the newer Vette T56 be swapped in, or is there a lot more work to get that transmission running behind a 1st Gen SBC? Thanks, David Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rsicard Posted August 16, 2009 Share Posted August 16, 2009 Doc Hawk: The LSx T56 has a longer input shaft and possibly a different bell housing than the LT-1 T56. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tomcraft Posted August 16, 2009 Share Posted August 16, 2009 hi grumpy i have a m22 muncie 4 speed in my 71 240 z i changed my tranny fluid with mobil1 75w90 is that ok also i have a slight chattering noise coming from the flywheel area, i hear it when its in neutral.i thought i could take the shroud off that covers the flywheel whats the best way to investigate the noise to take off the shroud do i just hold up tranny sorry probably dumb question but i never did it thanks for your patience Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoeinCA Posted August 17, 2009 Share Posted August 17, 2009 Ok Grumpy. I'm having trouble properly identifying an sbc. The block casting is 3970010. The Stamped Engine ID : V0618HV The stamped VIN: 19J280937 The date code: F 17 8 The Cylinder heads : 3814480 The WInters intake : 3917610 I know the intake is off of a 1969 camaro 302. The heads are 70 cc chamber with 1.72/1.5 valves. I think. I know it was built in Flint, on june 17... 1968? The HV is throwing me off, as well as the Stamped VIN. One guy told me it was a 9:1 compression 255 hp Impala engine. But he also said that it was built in in Janesville.... I'm trying to sell it, so I just want to be able to correctly target my advertising. I initially thought it was from a 65 vette, 350hp 327. I'm confused after seeing all the different information out there. Joe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpyvette Posted August 17, 2009 Author Share Posted August 17, 2009 hi grumpy i have a m22 muncie 4 speed in my 71 240 z i changed my tranny fluid with mobil1 75w90 is that ok also i have a slight chattering noise coming from the flywheel area, i hear it when its in neutral.i thought i could take the shroud off that covers the flywheel whats the best way to investigate the noise to take off the shroud do i just hold up tranny sorry probably dumb question but i never did it thanks for your patience sounds like a well worn throw out bearing or slightly out of adjustment clutch linkage Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpyvette Posted August 17, 2009 Author Share Posted August 17, 2009 Ok Grumpy. I'm having trouble properly identifying an sbc. The block casting is 3970010. The Stamped Engine ID : V0618HV The stamped VIN: 19J280937 The date code: F 17 8 The Cylinder heads : 3814480 The WInters intake : 3917610 I know the intake is off of a 1969 camaro 302. The heads are 70 cc chamber with 1.72/1.5 valves. I think. I know it was built in Flint, on june 17... 1968? The HV is throwing me off, as well as the Stamped VIN. One guy told me it was a 9:1 compression 255 hp Impala engine. But he also said that it was built in in Janesville.... I'm trying to sell it, so I just want to be able to correctly target my advertising. I initially thought it was from a 65 vette, 350hp 327. I'm confused after seeing all the different information out there. Joe it seems youve got a mix & match selection of parts the blocks ID casting # seems most likely a 4" bore 327-or -350 cast in flint on july 18 1969 heads from a 327 built between 1962-1967 intake from a 302 z28 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MostinMofia Posted August 17, 2009 Share Posted August 17, 2009 I bought my 72 S30 in june. When we picked the car up the original motor was torn apart sitting on the back deck. My brother had a spare L28 he wasn't using so i dropped that into it. I used the original S.U.s and intake manifold. When we got the car running it ran great. Then all of a sudden it dies one day. long story short i put a carb rebuild kit in it. That got it running again and i tunned the carbs to where i thought the engine ran the best and i drove it again and it does this thing where the engine is really sluggish and barley has any power. It will iddle fine sometimes and the engine will be will be really snappy but it seems like when i drive it it takes a really long time to rev and pull through. I took it to a mechanic 3 times and he still hasn't figured it out. I was thinking vaccume leak possibly, but i think the carbs are tuned fine because 1/3 of the time it runs great. I really don't know. There aren't any good z mechanics in my area. Any help would greatly be appreciated, Glenn, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bleakdragonmage Posted August 17, 2009 Share Posted August 17, 2009 hey grumpy, i have a question for you. Do you know of a company that sells a driver side low/mid mount alt bracket for a SBC with a long water pump. All the ones ive seen are for a short pump. If i can avoid it, i would rather not have to replace all my pulley's and pump since i just bought them. I need to move it to that side so i can 1) close my hood, and 2) use my stock power steering lines without having to have custom ones made. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpyvette Posted August 17, 2009 Author Share Posted August 17, 2009 I bought my 72 S30 in june. When we picked the car up the original motor was torn apart sitting on the back deck. My brother had a spare L28 he wasn't using so i dropped that into it. I used the original S.U.s and intake manifold. When we got the car running it ran great. Then all of a sudden it dies one day. long story short i put a carb rebuild kit in it. That got it running again and i tunned the carbs to where i thought the engine ran the best and i drove it again and it does this thing where the engine is really sluggish and barley has any power. It will iddle fine sometimes and the engine will be will be really snappy but it seems like when i drive it it takes a really long time to rev and pull through. I took it to a mechanic 3 times and he still hasn't figured it out. I was thinking vaccume leak possibly, but i think the carbs are tuned fine because 1/3 of the time it runs great. I really don't know. There aren't any good z mechanics in my area. Any help would greatly be appreciated, Glenn, drop back to the basics, check for vacuum leaks and verify the timing, and ignition advance, and fuel pressure,& flow rates, and oil pressure,read the plugs,verify the exhaust is not restricted,verify the sensors read correctly and the cooling system works, chances are good a basic tune up and a few tests will find the problem source Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpyvette Posted August 17, 2009 Author Share Posted August 17, 2009 (edited) hey grumpy, i have a question for you. Do you know of a company that sells a driver side low/mid mount alt bracket for a SBC with a long water pump. All the ones ive seen are for a short pump. If i can avoid it, i would rather not have to replace all my pulley's and pump since i just bought them. I need to move it to that side so i can 1) close my hood, and 2) use my stock power steering lines without having to have custom ones made. http://www.alangrovecomponents.com/S.B.Long_Pump.htm Part Number 214L - ALT. (NEAR BOTTOM OF PAGE) Mounts the alternator low on the driver's side. Bolts to block and water pump for the stability needed when mounting the alternator low with a long water pump. http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=81&t=1871&p=5395#p5395 OR Edited August 17, 2009 by grumpyvette Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tomcraft Posted August 17, 2009 Share Posted August 17, 2009 sounds like a well worn throw out bearing or slightly out of adjustment clutch linkage thank you, is the oil that i used ok and whats the best way to adjust clutch linkage and check bearing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpyvette Posted August 17, 2009 Author Share Posted August 17, 2009 (edited) thank you, is the oil that i used ok and whats the best way to adjust clutch linkage and check bearing the oil should be ok (check with the manufacturer of the transmission)) the "best" way to check the throw out bearing is to remove it, inspect the clutch while the trans is out and throw the old throw out bearing in the dumpster if its got any indication of wear, it should spin smoothly and QUIETLY in your hands with no slack or grinding or outward appearance of wear theres HUNDREDS of different clutch designs so ID suggest common sense leave some slack in the linkage, if its the Z BAR style and get a shop manual from the car that the clutch linkage came from for a basic over view Edited August 21, 2009 by grumpyvette Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrenadeZ Posted August 21, 2009 Share Posted August 21, 2009 Hey grump, Potentially exciting question! 4 bolt main sbc engine code 3956618 It is either a 302 (!!!!!!!!!) or 350. Motor is a 4 bolt main. how can we tell? thanks, Marcus Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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